• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

MEP-002A Exhaust Question plus Machine Resurrection

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,258
1,712
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
IMG_0238.jpegIMG_0235.jpegIMG_0234.jpegIMG_0237.jpegIMG_0236.jpegIMG_0233.jpeg


Spent some time replacing zip ties this morning.
Let me know if I need to add more or reinforce places I missed.

IMG_0226.jpeg
Few new parts arrived today.
NOS Gound Rod Kit and NOS Auxiliary Fuel bung and tubes arriving today.

Parts for air cleaner should be here this week

Getting ready to go out and clean contacts on charging regulator.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,456
19,245
113
Location
Charlotte NC
View attachment 897782View attachment 897783View attachment 897784View attachment 897785View attachment 897786View attachment 897787


Spent some time replacing zip ties this morning.
Let me know if I need to add more or reinforce places I missed.

View attachment 897788
Few new parts arrived today.
NOS Gound Rod Kit and NOS Auxiliary Fuel bung and tubes arriving today.

Parts for air cleaner should be here this week

Getting ready to go out and clean contacts on charging regulator.
.
The Zip Ties look nice.
Almost like a "factory" finish on those wires...

.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,258
1,712
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
.
The Zip Ties look nice.
Almost like a "factory" finish on those wires...

.
Appreciate that.

Looking Closer at the pics on my phone, I see a few places that need one.
I’m not trying to rebuild a B-52, but want it as original as possible.
A repaint is not in the forecast.

Now that I have the Oil Filter Canister gasket install figured out, I’m thinking about keeping the original filter(s) setup.

I will be making up a few stencils.
Several places the lettering is gone, including the trailer.
Fortunately I just so happen to have such a machine.
Wish I had all the different stencil sizes.

IMG_0239.jpeg
Installed a NOS Air Filter indicator.
Old one was probably good, but you could barely see inside.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,258
1,712
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
I don't think this genset could have found a better home! (y)

Doing very good work & inspiring me to continue looking after my own MEP-002a herd. These old MEP's have LOTS of life left & will serve you well in times of need if you treat them right and maintain them.
Appreciate the kind words.
I try.
Learned long ago to buy the best parts you can afford and do the best job you can.

Really happy with this generator.
Still some bugs to work out but hopefully all will go as planned.

The help/advice here from everyone has been golden.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,258
1,712
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
IMG_0253.jpeg
Not much done today on genset.
Refreshed ground and removed rust on threads at the end of the exhaust pipe. Then painted the pipe threads 383 green.
Will be removing the ground cable and doing shrink sleeve the entire length. Looks bad the way it is now.

IMG_0254.jpeg

She looks rough still and trailer definitely needs more attention.
I won’t paint generator but will probably paint trailer.

Ordered NOS Battery Voltage Gauge.
Original one works, but lens is cloudy and looks like poo.

Other parts still inbound.
Also have to get more flat black spray paint.
No stencils today because I was out.

Tomorrow much more work planned with arrival of parts.


IMG_0257.jpeg
Cleaned terminal board this evening.
One small spot had some corrosion but doubtful if it was enough to cause high charging voltage.
Will find out tomorrow
 
Last edited:

Chainbreaker

Well-known member
1,751
1,845
113
Location
Oregon
Last edited:

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,258
1,712
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
If I had only stopped at two... ;)
I have had great luck looking on Craigslist for portable gas generators that the previous owners couldn’t get running and wanted it gone.
Lots of high end ones.
Generac, Honda, Gillette, etc.
Usually in the 4500/5500 watt range but several 7000 and 7500/8500 also.

Have found multiple unbelievable deals and now I’m sitting on about 9 gas generators that run and work. Several look brand new and none are beat up
Will give most of those away to needy families that can’t afford the initial cost of a generator.

Those types of generators I’m familiar with.

The MEP-002A is a COMPLETELY different animal for obvious reasons.
I’m really enjoying working on this.
There is just something about bringing an old piece of machinery back to life.

I’ve done it to multiple small gas generators and two diesel tractors.

Will I stop at just one Military Generator?!
HA!
Of course not!

I have a wife that supports what I do and fortunately the finances to do it.

I envy you guys that have multiple MEPs.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,258
1,712
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Testing charging voltage and while it was much slower in climbing, it still is to high and jumping up and down several volts at a time.

Shut down engine to do a restart and original starter finally gave up.
Everything clicks like it’s supposed to, but starter will not move.

Figures………

Engine is not seized

Ordered NOS Type II starter today.
Better starter anyway

EDIT:
I seriously jumped the gun.

Starters just fine.
The contacts on the thermal cutoff switch were not making enough contact.
Took off the wires and put them back on.
Fired right up.

Yea
I know
 
Last edited:

Ray70

Well-known member
2,407
5,219
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
Before replacing the starter did you check for power getting to the starter solenoid, and are you sure the click you are hearing is the starter and not the Fuel solenoid and starter relay?
Agreed the new starter is a better design, but you might want to investigate deeper to be sure the starter is the problem.
The starter interrupt switch could also be out of adjustment or dirty, causing no power to starter, but I think you will still hear the FSS click loudly.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,258
1,712
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Before replacing the starter did you check for power getting to the starter solenoid, and are you sure the click you are hearing is the starter and not the Fuel solenoid and starter relay?
Agreed the new starter is a better design, but you might want to investigate deeper to be sure the starter is the problem.
The starter interrupt switch could also be out of adjustment or dirty, causing no power to starter, but I think you will still hear the FSS click loudly.
I didn’t really do any of those until “after” ordering a new one.
All is good
Thermal cutoff switch contacts weren’t making a good connection
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,020
22,517
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Before replacing the starter did you check for power getting to the starter solenoid, and are you sure the click you are hearing is the starter and not the Fuel solenoid and starter relay?
Agreed the new starter is a better design, but you might want to investigate deeper to be sure the starter is the problem.
The starter interrupt switch could also be out of adjustment or dirty, causing no power to starter, but I think you will still hear the FSS click loudly.
The starter interrupter, S7 I think, is the reason I brought up starter clash. The S7 can lead to clash, or the starter not engaging. Its a fine line. Easy to test and adjust. But a quick test, to see if its S7, is to jump from TB4-3, to TB4-12, 13 and 14. They are all the same potential. You can use a wire, or needle nosed pliers, if the grip is insulated. Simply make the jump, and turn the S1 to start. If the engine turns over, then S7 is the problem.
 

rickf

Well-known member
3,022
1,322
113
Location
Pemberton, N.J.
Something to remember on any older equipment, cars, trucks generators, anything electrical that has seen weather and age. If something electrical does not work the very first thing to check is grounds followed by the appropriate power circuits for that part of the unit. Any plug or connection needs to be checked for looseness or dirt/corrosion. Doing that can save you a lot of money down the road. Firing the parts cannon will sometimes get it going but it is only masking the real problem. Then when the issue pops up again you are back to firing that cannon again. Best to properly diagnose the problem from the beginning.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,258
1,712
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
It did it again and this time the removing the wires trick didn’t work.
I tested the thermal switch and it’s closed circuit.
Will dive into TMs to see the proper testing procedure.

Yea
Parts cannon made my arm sore today.
Starter, Thermal Switch,

Little distracted today and it’s showing.
Time to slow down.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,258
1,712
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
The starter interrupter, S7 I think, is the reason I brought up starter clash. The S7 can lead to clash, or the starter not engaging. Its a fine line. Easy to test and adjust. But a quick test, to see if its S7, is to jump from TB4-3, to TB4-12, 13 and 14. They are all the same potential. You can use a wire, or needle nosed pliers, if the grip is insulated. Simply make the jump, and turn the S1 to start. If the engine turns over, then S7 is the problem.
Will be doing that tomorrow

Thanks
 

Chainbreaker

Well-known member
1,751
1,845
113
Location
Oregon
...Ordered NOS Type II starter today.
Better starter anyway

EDIT:
I seriously jumped the gun.

Starters just fine.
The contacts on the thermal cutoff switch were not making enough contact.
Took off the wires and put them back on.
Fired right up.

Yea
I know
Even if it's not the OEM starter misbehaving... having a Type II starter on the spares shelf is a good thing! I bought one as a spare years ago and having it has intimidated my OEM starters to always work. ;)

Incidentally, my new to me #5 generator came missing its OEM starter with a Type II starter laying in a bucket that was never installed because the previous owner couldn't figure out how to install it. Was very simple to install the Type II with me supplying just (2) grade 5 bolts that were missing & it was very easy to wire up. The Type II starter cranks very nicely!

Note: While on the subject of -002/-003 starters: I am in the hunt for the Starter Lockout Switch Dust Cover its missing on my # 5 unit I recently purchased. Will post in Parts Wanted also.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks