MEP 002A- FUEL STOP SELENOID

[metalworker393]

Hello and how are you all doing. Been a while since I've been on the site.
So, my cousin has an 002 machine of mine. He doesn't run it often and it's been sitting for a while.
Last week he tried running it. The engine stop selenoid above the IP was not working. I gave him a spare I had, I tested it to make sure it worked .
He installed it and here is what happens-
Master start to crank- selenoid goes up
Engine cranks, starts to run
Engine builds oil pressure
Gets above 20 psi
Let's off crank to run position
Selenoid goes all the way down and shuts Engine off.
The selenoid wont stay up to allow Engine to run . Goes up during crank, but goes down in run position.
Told him to jump oil pressure switch . He did. Still won't stay up for run position
Possibilities?
I'm thinking high temp switch on cylinders
Broken wire on that circut
Possible bad master start switch?
Any ideas?
I'm going to go over there this weekend and try and trouble shoot.
Would the stop selenoid shorting ( it was definitely bad) damage something else ?
Thanks, Metalworker393

 

[Guyfang]

Hello and how are you all doing. Been a while since I've been on the site.
So, my cousin has an 002 machine of mine. He doesn't run it often and it's been sitting for a while.
Last week he tried running it. The engine stop selenoid above the IP was not working. I gave him a spare I had, I tested it to make sure it worked .
He installed it and here is what happens-
Master start to crank- selenoid goes up
Engine cranks, starts to run
Engine builds oil pressure
Gets above 20 psi (try letting it stay in the run position 2-3 seconds longer)
Let's off crank to run position
Selenoid goes all the way down and shuts Engine off.
The selenoid wont stay up to allow Engine to run . Goes up during crank, but goes down in run position.
Told him to jump oil pressure switch . He did. Still won't stay up for run position
Possibilities?
I'm thinking high temp switch on cylinders (good place to start)
Broken wire on that circut (Could be. But first jump the temp switch)
Possible bad master start switch? (could be. Look at the Troubleshooting diagram to check it.)
Any ideas?
I'm going to go over there this weekend and try and trouble shoot.
Would the stop selenoid shorting ( it was definitely bad) damage something else ? ( No)

 

[Ray70]

I 2nd jumping the high temp switch.

 

[Guyfang]

Great Minds Think Alike!

 

[metalworker393]

Thank you all for giving me a tip.

 

[metalworker393]

Good morning, how are you all doing !
Okay so I went over and helped my cousin out .
Here's what we have- 1, the machine is filthy. Told him he needs to VACUUM out all of the garb around it.
The shutter box had a rather large mouse nest in it. Fortunately, they didn't chew on the wires.
After cleaning that out , I wanted to try cranking the machine to see if it would fire up.
In the crank the selenoid went up. Okay . Cranked it, he had the oil pressure selenoid wires jumped .
It went up to 30 psi on the gauge , no smoke. I had him crank it, the lever on the side of the IP was a little sticky, i used a screwdriver to push up on it , the machine started to smoke then fired up .
I did not use any force to get the lever up, I think all of the diesel in there is gumming up.
I told him let it run for a couple hours to flush the fuel system. He had drained the tank, put fresh diesel in it. I told him to put a diesel fuel lubricant in it ( which he had on hand ) and just let it run.
I adjusted the rpm by setting it at 61.5 Hz , no load. Then adjusted the voltage with the rheostat to get 120v on each leg.
The frequency meter is showing pegged at 65hz while my multi meter is at 61.5 hz. I'm going with my multimeter reading..
He ordered new fuel filters, he ordered a new oil pressure sender, the air filter is clean . That's got about 5 hours on it. I did a pm on it a year and a half ago and it's pretty much been sitting.
He said he hadn't run it in a year. I can believe that.
I showed him the high engine temp switch, went over that.
The oil pressure switch isn't the same as mine. I think aftermarket, but there was no ink on it , nothing engraved. It may be a 25 psi or perhaps 30 psi switch. So he's getting the original switch which should close at 15 psi.
So the machine is running and making power . He's using it in 240v single phase so he can run his whole house.
I told him hook it up to his panel and run the machine and power the house to exercise the alternator.
He knows the drill with backfeeding, has to isolate it from utility power. (Open the main breaker on his panel first )
So the machine is running and making power, but needs a severe cleaning.
On the ip- I recall reading that there is something that breaks if you force the lever. I just gave it a light ( and I mean light) push up to get it to start running. I think the ip was gummed up from not running in so long. Any opinion on that ?
Thanks, appreciate your help and input Metalworker393

 

[Guyfang]

The linkage on the solenoid:


To be specific, item #8, the ball joint cam be a problem. It can and will get stiff due to no lube. On other applications, the LO (Lube Order) instructed us to put a drop of oil on the ball joint, every time we checked oil. The whole movement of the solenoid and arm need to be checked. It needs to be very fluid. I would give it a good look see, to make sure its in order and not rubbing on anything.