Mep 003a fuel pump connectors

[Light in the Dark]

The phase selection switch is behind the little door on the 'front' of the machine (gauge side) left side, just above the convenience outlet. Never turn that switch while the machine is running or you may not only be looking for a new pair of underwear, but also where to refill the smoke chamber.

 

[Guyfang]

RTB. Its all in the TM, just need to read it.

 

[rickf]

Oh how I wish I had that bottle when I had my shop and I had to work on MG's and all of the other British vehicles. Not to mention all my BSA and Triumph motorcycles.

 

[Ray70]

And it's made by Lucas, so it's the good stuff!
Not that cheap aftermarket replacement smoke!

 

[Kahles56]

And it's made by Lucas, so it's the good stuff!
Not that cheap aftermarket replacement smoke!

joseph Lucas, AKA "Prince of darkness"
Remember there is the right way of doing things,
the wrong way of doing things AND
there is the British Way Of Doing Things.

Not to offend anyone, I used to work on British cars back in the late 70's and early 80's.
Could always count on The Brits to come up with some weird way of doing something.
Just as a joke I took a hammer and drilled a hole in the handle placed a screw through handle and bolted it above the fuel pump ,added a spring to keep the hammer off the fuel pump, added a string and a pulley to the hammer end and ran it inside so driver could pull string to get pump to start when he tried to start car worked great , he was a cheep SOB and the hammer and time was cheaper than a new fuel pump for a MGB.
Ken

 

[rickf]

Ah, So you are quite familiar with Whitworth tools? I might even still have one or two buried in an old box somewhere. I was watching some You Tube show where they were restoring a British armored vehicle of some sort and they actually needed Whitworth tools on some of the parts. Can you imagine being out in the field without the proper tool kit and needing those tools? I can't tell you haw many Whitworth bolts I came across that were all chewed up from Vice grips and pipe wrenches because nothing else fit.

 

[Guyfang]

No one can make a wonderful looking automobile, so complicated, as Brits. If you cant fix it yourself, rob a bank.

 

[Kahles56]

Ah, So you are quite familiar with Whitworth tools? I might even still have one or two buried in an old box somewhere. I was watching some You Tube show where they were restoring a British armored vehicle of some sort and they actually needed Whitworth tools on some of the parts. Can you imagine being out in the field without the proper tool kit and needing those tools? I can't tell you haw many Whitworth bolts I came across that were all chewed up from Vice grips and pipe wrenches because nothing else fit.

Whitworth tools, I had forgotten about those bolts.
I swear they were a cross between Metric and SAE, not to mention the difference in thread.
I have seen nuts welded to the bolt to be able to remove, only in hidden areas of the car of course.

 

[Kahles56]

Whitworth tools, I had forgotten about those bolts.
I swear they were a cross between Metric and SAE, not to mention the difference in thread.
I have seen nuts welded to the bolt to be able to remove, only in hidden areas of the car of course.

Of note was told by a 70-year-old mechanic I was working for that British cars would make a mechanic out of a preacher to include all of the famous verbiage that mechanics utilize when they get mad.
I do know and have seen preachers cuss like a sailor when they got the bill for repair.
Not despairing a sailor's verbal knowledge, sailors have an aptitude to say a whole lot in few words and usually are right to the point.
Ken

 

[Brother Hec]

I scanned this thread and saw in post #46 that you have run this set some. DO NOT EVER idle this genset, you will ruin it. Once you get it adjusted for 60 hz, leave it alone and just switch the set off without touching the throttle. I did not understand this at first on mine but my luck exceeded my stupidity that time. My 003 has 1 7/8” of throttle pulled out, that should get you in the ballpark. My set is very cold natured and almost always needs about 20-30” of preheat. As you probably learned from your earlier runs, you must hold the switch in start several seconds after it fires up. Mine seems to to like about 15” after it is running. If you do not see white puffs of smoke from the exhaust after about 5-10” of cranking, it is not getting fuel. As mentioned in post #86, make sure the fuel shutoff is being pulled up by the solenoid when cranking. It is at the end of the pen in the picture. My unit will every so often not pull it up enough if it gets sticky so lubrication is important. You have to lift the cover on the right side to really see it but make sure it gets latched down for proper cooling. Do not use starter fluid on these sets.
View attachment 885877

I am having a problem my MEP. It is runnng rough. It was running smooth as glass before. I ran it for about 12 hours straight running an irrigation pump. I stopped when it started running rough and have not run it since. I took off the cover to look at the area in the picture. I did notice the linkage you are pointing at in picture was very wet and forming drips of fuel. I think this is solenoid linkage because it was moving up and down as generator motor sputtered. It looked like there was another cover lid above this area. I did not unlatch it to inspect. Why would fuel wet the linkage and would this be reason why generator running very rough?? Thank you!
Bro Hec

 

[Ray70]

Fuel on the BOTTOM of that rod only would probably indicate a leak in the throttle lever assembly sticking out of the side of the injection pump.
However, that will not cause it to run rough.

The linkage moving up and down is the governor trying to maintain RPM's when the engine begins to stumble.
If it is stumbling and revving up and down with no smoke present, that is typically a fuel delivery issue.

Things to check are:
Clean fuel filters and strainers on the bottom of the pumps.
Ensure pumps are both clicking ( slowly ) with the switch in the Prime/Run position. ( rapid clicking and extremely slow / just barely clicking both indicate fuel pump or check valve problems )
A crack in the suction line going from the tank to the first fuel pump can let air bubbles into the fuel.
Check for proper fuel flow at the inlet of the injection pump, solid stream wit no obvious air bubbles.

 

[Brother Hec]

I scanned this thread and saw in post #46 that you have run this set some. DO NOT EVER idle this genset, you will ruin it. Once you get it adjusted for 60 hz, leave it alone and just switch the set off without touching the throttle. I did not understand this at first on mine but my luck exceeded my stupidity that time. My 003 has 1 7/8” of throttle pulled out, that should get you in the ballpark. My set is very cold natured and almost always needs about 20-30” of preheat. As you probably learned from your earlier runs, you must hold the switch in start several seconds after it fires up. Mine seems to to like about 15” after it is running. If you do not see white puffs of smoke from the exhaust after about 5-10” of cranking, it is not getting fuel. As mentioned in post #86, make sure the fuel shutoff is being pulled up by the solenoid when cranking. It is at the end of the pen in the picture. My unit will every so often not pull it up enough if it gets sticky so lubrication is important. You have to lift the cover on the right side to really see it but make sure it gets latched down for proper cooling. Do not use starter fluid on these sets.
View attachment 885877

Fuel on the BOTTOM of that rod only would probably indicate a leak in the throttle lever assembly sticking out of the side of the injection pump.
However, that will not cause it to run rough.

The linkage moving up and down is the governor trying to maintain RPM's when the engine begins to stumble.
If it is stumbling and revving up and down with no smoke present, that is typically a fuel delivery issue.

Things to check are:
Clean fuel filters and strainers on the bottom of the pumps.
Ensure pumps are both clicking ( slowly ) with the switch in the Prime/Run position. ( rapid clicking and extremely slow / just barely clicking both indicate fuel pump or check valve problems )
A crack in the suction line going from the tank to the first fuel pump can let air bubbles into the fuel.
Check for proper fuel flow at the inlet of the injection pump, solid stream wit no obvious air bubbles.

Thank you Ray. I will do as you recommend. Gen motor does stumble and it does NOT smoke. I am concerned because this generator runs like a clock… no stumbling.

 

[Ray70]

A bit of advice, unplug the fuel pumps and test 1 at a time. The sound from 1 can mask a problem with the other.
The pumps are intended to be redundant, however, each pump has 2 check balls in it and a problem with any 1 of the 4 check balls can potentially take down the whole fuel system.
Also be aware that the fitting where the fuel line is clamped to the chassis right below the oil pressure gage is also a check valve. If stuck closed it will prevent fuel flow, if stuck open it can cause the fuel to leak backwards when the machine is off, possibly bringing air into the IP cavity.

 

[Brother Hec]

Thank you for the advice.