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mep-003a running temp in a closed environment

storeman

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Install some corrugated steel or aluminum under the deck at a slight slope (1/4"/ft with shims) and protect the genny from falling/dripping moisture and at same time, keep genny open from critters. Easy job.
Jerry
 

jamawieb

Well-known member
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Ripley/TN
"BTW an open box of mothballs will keep all pests out."

What is the secret to keeping mice out of wiring? I tried a box of mothballs in the boat cabinets and the mice chewed the box and incorporated the cardboard and a few mothballs into the nest.

One of my 02a's is going to be installed under a high deck sitting on crushed rock. Afraid that mice are going to make homes throughout if I cover it with a canvas. Don't want to leave it uncovered as I have a gravel state road close and the dust goes everywhere. Suggestions?
David
I have had great success with peppermint oil. A lot of vintage car guys have used it for years to keep mice out. I pour it in a dish and it seems to work, I have it in my generators, deuce and RV. I use to have a bad problem with mice making nest but since I've been using the peppermint oil I haven't had anymore. I hope this helps.
 

ETN550

New member
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When I use the mothballs I usually cut the large side of the whole box open and place it in a central area. Mostly I have used mothballs in engine compartments.

I have heard mice are attracted to steel wool and it kills them. Never tried it though.
 

Triple Jim

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North Carolina
Not saying I'm right, but I heard mice just don't like to chew steel wool, so you can use it to block openings. I've used it for that and haven't found dead mice around.
 

Jimc

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Mullica, nj
ditto on jims comment. ive used steel wool in my house for about 8 years now. never had a dead mouse. they just cant chew it or dont like to.
 

robkiller

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Location
Colorado Springs CO
The conversation has changed so much on this topic I feel that I will be putting it back off topic. With that said the information on how to keep mice out is very important and I will be trying some of the ideas thanks guys.

So I have completed the shed and will post some picture as soon as I can. The unit is much quieter then it was. I have run the unit with the roof off and with it on. However I have not ran it with the roof on for a long time since I do not have a way to monitor the temps inside the shed yet. The 3 inch pipe I have to get fresh air is SUCKING a LOT of air so I hope its enough. It turns out there is some positive air in the shed. My one way vent does open up a bit to let extra air (hot air) out of the shed.

I have a few things left to do before I can really test it out.
1. fix the oil leak that is at the oil filter ( this started after replacing the old oil filter setup with the new type of filter kit. (this setup is not a good one to get the gasket to stay in place from the gen to the new adaptor is impossible.)
2. get a temperature unit to sent a temp from inside the shed to the house to monitor the generators temp. I also need to find out what is to hot for the shed.

Keep ya posted and will post pics soon
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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You might try one of those thermometers that has a sensor you put outside the house and can monitor outside temp from in your house. That way you'll know whats going on in the shed.
 

robkiller

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Location
Colorado Springs CO
You might try one of those thermometers that has a sensor you put outside the house and can monitor outside temp from in your house. That way you'll know whats going on in the shed.
That's what I have been thinking about doing. I just need to figure out what my temp range needs to be. The temp readers for weather don't go very high. If the shed is ok to get to say 150 degrees I need to make sure I can see if it goes that high or over that. With a 90 degree day in the summer I would not think seeing it 150 would be hard. I feel if the shed is no higher then 150 but maybe more in the average range of 120 in 90 degree weather I think that would be ok.

What do you guys think is a good average and a max to have the shed?
 

SteveH

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Location
Connecticut
That's what I have been thinking about doing. I just need to figure out what my temp range needs to be. The temp readers for weather don't go very high. If the shed is ok to get to say 150 degrees I need to make sure I can see if it goes that high or over that. With a 90 degree day in the summer I would not think seeing it 150 would be hard. I feel if the shed is no higher then 150 but maybe more in the average range of 120 in 90 degree weather I think that would be ok.

What do you guys think is a good average and a max to have the shed?
The military specs these to 125'F ambient; I wouldn't exceed that...
 

milradioman

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Location
Kooskia, Idaho
My generator has been in an approximately 6 by 10 foot shed for the last 15 years, I cut a hole in one end for cooling air to enter through a duct made of cardboard (temporary setup that did not get changed) the hot air vents out a hole I cut in the side of the shed (have not come up with a duct material yet), a lot of heat still vents out this hole, and I think it is a good idea to duct the cooling air in and out. I built an exhaust manifold out of pipe and exited the building with flexible metal exhaust pipe, through a metal plate. Heat inside the shed is a problem, I did put a attic vent fan near the ceiling to help remove heat in the building, but I still leave the doors open when running, summer time it runs hot, but rarely need it, most run time is winter. I never had a problem with mice.
 

robkiller

Member
206
1
18
Location
Colorado Springs CO
This is my shed. The roof comes off and all the walls fold down for easy access. The control unit is in the building next to the shed as well as the batteries. My controlling of the generator is done inside the building next to it. The way the exhaust and intake face there is an open field. My thoughts were to make the noise go out to the open field and away from the other structures around me. I am still wondering if I need that intake block that you see which has not been painted yet. I was trying to copy the ASK but I am not sure if it is helping or just blocking a smooth flow of air.

See pics below
 

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milradioman

Member
57
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8
Location
Kooskia, Idaho
My shed is a walk in with doors on the front that helps get rid of the hot air. I have a similar air intake and the board is to block the rain and or snow, if you want more air flow make the space between the wall and the board bigger. I plan to change my engine exhaust pipe straight up with a flapper cover so the noise would be directed up for a lower noise level. I am not familiar with what the ASK is??
 

storeman

Well-known member
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Location
Mathews County, VA
The Acoustical Suppression Kit (ASK) doesn't have any sort of hood over the exhaust. See mine which has had no changes. The genny exhaust just needs enough deflection to keep rain from falling straight in. I've added fittings to get out of the ASK structure to direct exhaust outside the shed. I know I need to paint the ASK surface, sheesh, only had it a month or two.

Jerry


IMG_1747.JPGIMG_1746.JPGIMG_1745.JPGIMG_1743.JPG
 

steelypip

Active member
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Charlottesville, VA
The design purpose of that sort of shroud is to deflect the noise coming straight out the port underneath. But yes, it's also great for weather protection. No reason not to keep it as long as the area around the outside edge of the shroud is equal or greater to the hole underneath.
 

robkiller

Member
206
1
18
Location
Colorado Springs CO
Ran the generator in the box with a load. Outside temp 50 degrees the inside never got over 68 until the unit was off then it got to 85 should not outside temp when it hit 85 after it was off was 66. The noise level dropped about 20db from 90s to 70s with shed.
 

SteveH

Member
78
4
8
Location
Connecticut
Here's a few photos of the shed I built for my MEP 003a. I've posted in a few other threads as I went through the project, but thought this was a good place to post a few photos of the completed job. Many thanks to everyone who offered guidance and support over the last few months!

The MEP is fitted with a Unitronics PLC to for autostart, connected to an Emerson Auto Transfer switch in the house. Cables back to the house (power, Ethernet and control) are all underground (and currently under snow...)

I've added duct work to the top of the ASK (the box attached with nutserts). This takes the exiting cooling air, and ducts it out the side of the shed via 12" steel ducts. The inlet is via a 10" duct, with the original ASK cover fitted on the outside of the shed. That is mounted to a removable panel on the end of the shed, through which I can remove the MEP if I ever need to...

Mufflers are connected via short vertical braided stainless flex pipes (hidden within the 'box' on the ASK), and then via a 90' and 1 1/4" iron pipe out to regular automotive 'flex' pipe. These then exit the shed through a couple of thimbles and a steel plate to keep the heat away from the wood. I did consider cutting one of my stainless 'laundry' pipes in half, and using it as the flex pipe to exit the shed, but have decided to try this first (couldn't face the idea of destroying the original pipes!).

I've test run it for about an hour, with no temperature problems at all in the shed (but with the current weather I wouldn't really expect any). Once the summer arrives I'll probably do a long test run on a hot day, with the generator under heavy load to see what extra venting I need (I plan to put a couple of regular vents in the shed eaves, but am not sure if I'll need any kind of vent fan)

-Steve

MEP-Shed-1.jpg MEP-Shed-2.jpg

MEP-Shed-3.jpg MEP-Shed-4.jpg
 

Triple Jim

Well-known member
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277
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Location
North Carolina
Yes, that's a very nice installation. I may do something similar someday, rather than just have my 003A under a canopy next to the house. Your setup is inspiring.
 
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