MEP-003A Skid Measurements?

[95blklsc]

I'm picking up a gen set next weekend. I forgot to measure two things while I was looking at it that I need to know before next weekend. I'm putting a set of casters on it before it is loaded into the trailer so I can move it once I get it home and I want to have everything ready to bolt on when I arrive.

I'm looking for the skid tie down hole diameter and the distance between the two holes at each corner of the skid. I already have the overall dimensions and skid width, I just overlooked this. Any help is appreciated!

 

[Triple Jim]

The holes in mine are 2.5" diameter, 23" center to center on the ends, and about 55.5" center to center on the sides. I'm not sure how you want the distance between the two holes at each corner measured, since they are in different planes, but you can lay them out with these dimensions. Let me know if you want any more information and I'll try to help.

 

[95blklsc]

The holes in mine are 2.5" diameter, 23" center to center on the ends, and about 55.5" center to center on the sides. I'm not sure how you want the distance between the two holes at each corner measured, since they are in different planes, but you can lay them out with these dimensions. Let me know if you want any more information and I'll try to help.

Thanks for the fast reply. I don't think I explained it well enough, here is a pic of the tie down holes I'm talking about, maybe I'm calling them by the wrong name. I need to know the diameter and spacing relative to each other.

 

[1800 Diesel]

Thanks for the fast reply. I don't think I explained it well enough, here is a pic of the tie down holes I'm talking about, maybe I'm calling them by the wrong name. I need to know the diameter and spacing relative to each other.

Standby--I'll measure a couple units in my shop....so you only need distance between the two holes (for each set) and also the hole diameter, right?

Edit--here ya' go:

Control box end: 5 1/4" hole spacing
Fan housing end: 4 3/4" hole spacing

Hole size 5/8".

If you're mounting on a trailer and you have the wedges, use 1/2" GR 5 galv hex bolts and also install some 3/4" or 1" thick neoprene if you have any or in a pinch, use two layers of flattened radiator hose. If you don't have the wedges, use 3/8" galv carriage bolts. The squares under the head drive into the holes nicely and you don't really need the wedges.

Kevin

 

[95blklsc]

Yea that's it. Thanks!

 

[1800 Diesel]

Yea that's it. Thanks!

Added the info in the message above as an edit...just in case you didn't see it. I measured 2 units. The 5 1/4" dim seemed more constant than the one at the fan housing end...I got a couple different values but all were +- 1/8"... Using the 3/8" bolts gives you some leeway too....BTW, I would call those the mounting holes but didn't check to see what the TM calls them...

 

[1800 Diesel]

I'm picking up a gen set next weekend. I forgot to measure two things while I was looking at it that I need to know before next weekend. I'm putting a set of casters on it before it is loaded into the trailer so I can move it once I get it home and I want to have everything ready to bolt on when I arrive.

I'm looking for the skid tie down hole diameter and the distance between the two holes at each corner of the skid. I already have the overall dimensions and skid width, I just overlooked this. Any help is appreciated!

Just noticed you're installing some casters--assuming while the base GL folks are holding the load. Just make sure you've got everything ready to go on so the operator doesn't have to wait too long. Also, some bases won't allow you to stand near the load while it's suspended but if you offer to keep the skid 12" off the ground or so, they may be ok with it....also a good idea to bring some 12x12 dunnage if you can get some...smaller ok if your caster install heights are lower. Last thing, get the hard wheel casters if you're on concrete/asphalt and soft tires if you need to roll on the ground. Use casters rated for 300-400 #s each for 4 installed..... for casters studs use at least 1/2" size or the full 5/8" if they're available....

 

[95blklsc]

Thanks for the info, exactly what I was looking for. I have a set of 700lb capacity 8" casters with a polyurethane outer layer, two swivel, two fixed with brakes. I'm taking a 2x8 and cutting it to the with of the unit (32"), and mounting casters to the board ahead of time and drilling the holes to bolt it to the frame. I'm not picking it up at an auction, it's a private party selling it and he has a fork lift so bolting it on shouldn't be an issue mounting before he puts it on my trailer.

 

[1800 Diesel]

Thanks for the info, exactly what I was looking for. I have a set of 700lb capacity 8" casters with a polyurethane outer layer, two swivel, two fixed with brakes. I'm taking a 2x8 and cutting it to the with of the unit (32"), and mounting casters to the board ahead of time and drilling the holes to bolt it to the frame. I'm not picking it up at an auction, it's a private party selling it and he has a fork lift so bolting it on shouldn't be an issue mounting before he puts it on my trailer.

Sounds like you're good-to-go...be safe! Post some pix once you get the unit mounted...

 

[95blklsc]

Here she is!



As well as a new in the crate ASK...



It runs great, I just need to look into one minor thing. The convenience receptacles are putting out 240 while all of the output lugs appear to be correct. I'm guessing it is wired to the two hot 120V leads instead of to neutral.

 

[1800 Diesel]

Here she is!



As well as a new in the crate ASK...



It runs great, I just need to look into one minor thing. The convenience receptacles are putting out 240 while all of the output lugs appear to be correct. I'm guessing it is wired to the two hot 120V leads instead of to neutral.

Great job on the caster installation! Also--looks like you hit the jackpot on the ASK package! I'd like to get one of those too, but can't afford the market prices.....maybe one day I'll see one that I can bid on...

On the 240V convenience receptacle--that's unheard of for me...kinda wondering why the circuit breaker isn't tripping...? Your explanation as to cause sounds plausible, but still surprised that something like could happen during the rebuild/reset process and further, how it would be missed during inspection and testing prior to declaring the unit RFI....

 

[95blklsc]

I would assume the breaker would only trip if too large of a load was placed on it, they aren't voltage dependent. I'm going to take a closer look this weekend, I'm sure it just across the two hot 120 lines I stead of to ground.

 

[95blklsc]

Turns out to be a false alarm. My kill-a-watt meter looks like it has gone bad. It is also reading 190V at the house too! I put my regular DMM on it and it is reading just fine on the lugs as well at the receptacle. I'm glad I looked into it though, I found that in the distribution box a couple of the wires were up against the bottom of the lugs and could possibly rub through. I took care of this potential issue and moved them a little. I did find that all of the wiring looks like it was replaced in both the control panel and the distribution box when the unit went through the tier two reset.

 

[1800 Diesel]

Turns out to be a false alarm. My kill-a-watt meter looks like it has gone bad. It is also reading 190V at the house too! I put my regular DMM on it and it is reading just fine on the lugs as well at the receptacle. I'm glad I looked into it though, I found that in the distribution box a couple of the wires were up against the bottom of the lugs and could possibly rub through. I took care of this potential issue and moved them a little. I did find that all of the wiring looks like it was replaced in both the control panel and the distribution box when the unit went through the tier two reset.

Better safe than sorry, but not good to hear of the KW meter's demise....anyway, on the genset, now you're good-to-go!