MEP-004A Condition found report--shutter control thermostat housing

[1800 Diesel]

Was attempting to drain the water from one of the units in work--setting up for a cooling system flush. After opening the pet cock, no liquid came out. Pulled the lower hose and then removed the shutter control thermostat housing and found it 95% clogged with mineral deposits of some sort. Not sure if this is from using high-mineral tap water, but have never seen one this bad. See photos below. Lesson here is if you get little or no flow from the opened petcock, investigate further--especially prior to a load test or issuing to the end user.



Even the lower radiator hose was partially clogged with the deposits.

After cleaning the shutter thermostat housing I need to test it and also am searching for a source for both radiator hoses.

 

[Scoobyshep]

My 004 would overheat very quickly. I found something very similar. Though it was bright red and waxy.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Guyfang]

Dude,

You get all the good ones. I saw lots like this, but not anywhere near as bad, when we pulled stuff out of DRMO. To clean out the system, we used some kind of Bathroom Cleaner that takes minarel deposits off. Bought a whole bunch of it and mixed it with distilled water. You could also use rain water. Let it sit in the system for a few days and then started it up. Ran at rated load a while, then dumped it and flushed it several times.

Now the thermostat. When my wife lets me out of the garden, I can look up all the NSN's and parts numbers, if you need to get a new one. The test procedure in the -34 is easy to follow, and works. The inside of the thermostat is full of beeswax. It was always a problem area. They element is separate from the housing. Probably rare today.If the lever is on the housing, you can always manually open and close the shutters.

As you can see, the housing is soft metal, so go easy on it when cleaning, or it WILL leak. Got to run!!

 

[1800 Diesel]

My 004 would overheat very quickly. I found something very similar. Though it was bright red and waxy.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I've only been running this one for short periods to run a compressor or welder every & then. Glad I discovered this before I did a 4-hour load test! This stuff almost looked like gravel from Pensacola beach or something--crazy stuff!

 

[1800 Diesel]

Dude,

You get all the good ones. I saw lots like this, but not anywhere near as bad, when we pulled stuff out of DRMO. To clean out the system, we used some kind of Bathroom Cleaner that takes minarel deposits off. Bought a whole bunch of it and mixed it with distilled water. You could also use rain water. Let it sit in the system for a few days and then started it up. Ran at rated load a while, then dumped it and flushed it several times.

Now the thermostat. When my wife lets me out of the garden, I can look up all the NSN's and parts numbers, if you need to get a new one. The test procedure in the -34 is easy to follow, and works. The inside of the thermostat is full of beeswax. It was always a problem area. They element is separate from the housing. Probably rare today.If the lever is on the housing, you can always manually open and close the shutters.

As you can see, the housing is soft metal, so go easy on it when cleaning, or it WILL leak. Got to run!!

Was thinking about using drano to clean this thing but used mechanical cleaning method along with a follow-up with brake cleaner. I may have to replace the thermostat assembly though--mainly due to lost material from corrosion IWO the gasket surface. About half the width of the mating surface is wasted away on about a one inch long section. Fortunately I have a couple parts units that I can cannibalize if necessary. Also, when I boiled the assembly, the linkage did seem to move a little but not as much as I would expect...In cold condition I can move the rod (that goes inside the thermostat) in and out with no resistance..not sure if that's normal or not.

 

[Guyfang]

The beeswax is supposed to get hot and shove the piston out, forcing the shutter assy to open. So when its cold. it may move freely. Read the test procedure and then try it. The darn things were hard to get in the army, until we got a NSN for them As a last resort we just ordered the whole darn thing. Flange and all. The parts TM's now, do not let you do that, I think. haven't checked it yet. For about 2 years, we just manually opened the shutters and tightened the bolt down on the handle. Took longer to warm up, but when you can not get the part, well, what can I say.

 

[1800 Diesel]

The beeswax is supposed to get hot and shove the piston out, forcing the shutter assy to open. So when its cold. it may move freely. Read the test procedure and then try it. The darn things were hard to get in the army, until we got a NSN for them As a last resort we just ordered the whole darn thing. Flange and all. The parts TM's now, do not let you do that, I think. haven't checked it yet. For about 2 years, we just manually opened the shutters and tightened the bolt down on the handle. Took longer to warm up, but when you can not get the part, well, what can I say.

Didn't notice there was a TP for the shutter assembly--should've dug into the TM a little deeper. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get on that. Tried getting a couple hoses today at Motion Industries, but they have closed their counter service. so....I'll have to put the old ones back on so I can do the load testing. Stay safe over there!

 

[Guyfang]

false post.