It's ALIVE!!! I got all the fluids filled. I checked the water filter and it was still there. I added the stock fuel filter. I derusted the secondary and just put it on without a cartridge. After lots of priming it started right up. Generator isn't making power yet but I know it just needs to get a little excited. i haven't looked that up yet. Thanks to all that helped me here. I just needed a little encouraging. I will convert it to single phase tomorrow. Once all done then I'll decide if I should sell it and try fro a 003 or keep it.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
MEP-004a Setup and Startup
- Thread starter reiters
- Start date
- 15,955
- 22,316
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Keep us up to speed on this thing. Its a good generator.
I just tried the gen and even holding the start for an extra few seconds doesn't make it generate for long. The Hz and Volts go up and a dremel tool in the convenience outlet starts running but as soon as I let off the start it goes back to zero. Am I missing a switch or something? There are no lights indicating any issues. Im hoping that it's just something I don't understand and easy fix.
- 15,955
- 22,316
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Start the set normally, hold up the S-1 start switch and then turn on the S-7 battle short switch. After the S-7 switch is on, then let the S-1 return to the run position. Still run? Still make power?
I'll have to try that tomorrow. I think you are describing to force it to ignore any issues and "just run". I have done a lot of reading and I think I'm going to have to pull the VR and give it a look over. I have some experience with electronics and the VR doesn't look all that complicated. I can't imagine it going bad with so few hours. My only thoughts are that lightning took out a zener diode over the years it was parked.
- 15,955
- 22,316
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Well, sometimes the fault indicator is also a problem. It doesn't always show a fault. So if the set runs in battle short, then you know it a safety issue. The VR could be the problem, but first see if it a safety/relay problem.
- 15,955
- 22,316
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
The problem is 95% chance the VR. The exciter works. The VR keeps dropping out.
When you take out the VR, dont forget to eyeball the Manufacture and UOC, (Usable On Code). EMK is for the Mep-804A. There are three different NSN and part numbers in the TM. Two of them, (different manufacturers, AND you need a different R-1 voltage adjust rheostat for each kind) are for the 804A. The other, UOC YNN is for the 400 hz model. The VR's were made by Libby and TRC. If you have, (and you should have) a TRC, as I said, it uses a different R-1 the the Libby VR. You cant mix them. The below listed P.S. Mag article explains it.
View attachment TQG Voltage Reg.pdf
When you take out the VR, dont forget to eyeball the Manufacture and UOC, (Usable On Code). EMK is for the Mep-804A. There are three different NSN and part numbers in the TM. Two of them, (different manufacturers, AND you need a different R-1 voltage adjust rheostat for each kind) are for the 804A. The other, UOC YNN is for the 400 hz model. The VR's were made by Libby and TRC. If you have, (and you should have) a TRC, as I said, it uses a different R-1 the the Libby VR. You cant mix them. The below listed P.S. Mag article explains it.
View attachment TQG Voltage Reg.pdf
That's good to know. I am too cheap to buy a new one at this time. I'll try to test and repair the existing one. There aren't that many components and most are probably testable in circuit. If it just need a diode or transister, I can pronbably get that for under a dollar.
The resistor is on order. It was a 10 ohm 55w ceramic wirewound. I ordered a 100w 10 ohm wirewound with aluminum heatsink. We'll see if that helps. It was R1 which is near a bank of diodes. I'll check all the diodes too. https://www.dropbox.com/s/4rdpzvjgp0n27ky/Screenshot 2016-04-14 19.07.44.png?dl=0
- 15,955
- 22,316
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Yeah, that could have something to do with it. BUT only maybe!! Good work! Were do you live in Texas? My folks came from east Texas, Wills Point to be exact.
I have the right diode ordered but not going to make it here by Saturday so I ordered the next best thing from Amazon and have it coming tomorrow. I ordered a 1000v 50a full wave bridge rectifier and going to just use 2 wires from it. It's replacing a 400v 12a diode. I hope to have it running this weekend.
- 15,955
- 22,316
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Well good luck. Keep us up on whats going on. I simply loved the MEP-002 to MEP-006 gen sets. Simple, reliable and you could fix one with a General Mechanic's Tool box. I worked mostly with the 400 hz models. Not a big difference between the 60 hz and 400 hz models. I would imagine it is hard for the government to sell 400 hz sets. So one could buy up one or two 400 hz sets cheap and have a large stockpile of extra parts. Just an idea.
- 15,955
- 22,316
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
You will get it. Keep the faith.
OK so I haven't had a lot of time. I now have the right rectifier diode installed. The one I used was much better but not original. The resister I installed was 100w replacement for a 55w so should be fine there. Please understand I know nothing about these generators other than the reading I have done to figure this out. The motor runs great. When I hold the switch in the start position the hz an volts go up and I can adjust the hz using the knob below the control panel to 60hz. When I let off the start switch the volts and hx drop to zero. If I'm holding start and turn on battle short the hx and volts go to zero.
R1 and CR1 or CR4 (didn't trace to see which) were bad. The resistor was ceramic 55w and in pieces. The diode was shorted. Hopefully someone smarter than me will chime in and tell me where to go from here.
So if any of you can think of something I should have just known to do but would exhibit this behavior if not done then please speak up. Assume nothing (exactly how much I know).
On a side note. There is a lever on the side of the injector put (I think it is) that has clearly been turned as the paint is scratched under it. There are no cables hooded to it. The other side of the pump is hooked to the speed knob under the control panel. If the manuall turn the lever counterclockwise the engine starts fine but fully clockwise and it won't start. Seems like a throttle to me but should something be hooked to it? Is it for the precise units only and shere should it be set on mine.
I have tested all the diodes in the VR. Many can be satisfactorily tested in circuit. A few of them I unsoldered one leg and tested.
I know this is a recap of everything already said but I wanted it all in one place so that maybe it would jog someones memory as to what the issue might be.
R1 and CR1 or CR4 (didn't trace to see which) were bad. The resistor was ceramic 55w and in pieces. The diode was shorted. Hopefully someone smarter than me will chime in and tell me where to go from here.
So if any of you can think of something I should have just known to do but would exhibit this behavior if not done then please speak up. Assume nothing (exactly how much I know).
On a side note. There is a lever on the side of the injector put (I think it is) that has clearly been turned as the paint is scratched under it. There are no cables hooded to it. The other side of the pump is hooked to the speed knob under the control panel. If the manuall turn the lever counterclockwise the engine starts fine but fully clockwise and it won't start. Seems like a throttle to me but should something be hooked to it? Is it for the precise units only and shere should it be set on mine.
I have tested all the diodes in the VR. Many can be satisfactorily tested in circuit. A few of them I unsoldered one leg and tested.
I know this is a recap of everything already said but I wanted it all in one place so that maybe it would jog someones memory as to what the issue might be.
- 15,955
- 22,316
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
The lever is for an electric actuator. Thats used on precise sets. Yours is an MEP-004A, (or so you said) so nothing goes on the lever, just leave it alone. We need to look at what would shut off your VR. The exciter works. The volt regulator works as long as you hold up the S-1 switch. So the problem can only be something that cuts off voltage needed to keep the VR on line. Need to think about it. I am not at home right now, at my kids house. So don't have schematics at hand. If I remember right, and its been a while since I worked on this set, K-5 is the excitor relay. Find it, and check it out. I think about every time I had a problem like this, it was the card, (volt regulator) in the static exciter. box.