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MEP-005 won't stay running

asajay

New member
21
5
3
Location
Spokane, WA
I obtained a MEP-005 genset earlier this year. I had it running for a couple of hours back in June before it stopped running, and haven't been back to it since, until this week.

I have replaced both fuel filters, removed, cleaned and replaced the fuel strainer, given it an oil change with new filter, and drained a couple quarts of fuel from the tank to check for water. After replacing the strainer and filters I primed the system and checked for fuel coming into the injector pump.

At this point everything looks good.

I can turn on the battle short and run switch and I hear a clicking like a fuel pump running. I let that run until the clicks pretty much stop. I then turn off the battle short and the run switch. Then I press the run switch up to start and the engine starts and can build oil pressure, but then it just quits, like it's either out of fuel or some other interlock is tripping.

Yes, I'm holding the start switch until I get oil pressure.

I'm at a loss to understand what might be causing it to not stay running. Oil pressure builds and the oil pressure warning light goes out. All other lamps are functioning (tested) and nothing is coming on once started.

My fuel gauge appears to not be working, as I have nearly a full tank of diesel. I checked the sending unit wire, tried grounding it but the gauge doesn't move; I think the gauge may be shot, and since the engine starts, it would seem it's not due to low fuel.

Is there a good way to check the output of the fuel injection pump without making a huge mess?
Do I need to remove and clean the injectors?
What other interlocks are there that I should check?

Any pointers would be helpful.
Thank you,
Asa Jay
 

Korgoth1

New member
191
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Location
radford, va
I have a 004, so I may not be much help. If youre not throwing any indicator lights, I would suspect the fuel shutoff solenoid. I would run it in battle short for a few minutes(assuming you are sure you have oil pressure) and that will tell you if fuel is actually making it to the pump. My 004 quit on me once without and indicator light, it was the secondary fuel filter, which is no monitored like the primary is on the 004.
 

asajay

New member
21
5
3
Location
Spokane, WA
No, it does not seem to stay running in the battle short position. I found a couple of other threads here that are making me lean toward the injection pump. I may dive into that tomorrow, a little scared, but willing to work it out.

I'll post what I find.
Asa Jay
 

asajay

New member
21
5
3
Location
Spokane, WA
Today's troubleshooting:

- Opened the feed line to the Injector Pump (IP) and had good fuel flow
- Took off the T-fitting on the top and the adapter with the small glass ball, cleaned it up.
- Hooked up a voltmeter to the IP solenoid
- With Run / Battle Short, filled the lines until no clicks, 25V at the IP
- Battle Short off, generator started, held until oil pressure, got black smoke, 25V at the IP
- RPM fell off rapidly, 25V at IP
- Quickly switched on the Battle Short and no difference

- Took off the adapters on the top of the IP and cleaned around the glass ball again
- Took off the top of the IP and inspected; found a little schmutz but nothing real bad and all springs/levers appeared to operate normally
- Put it all back together end bled the IP
- Generator started and ran about 20-30 seconds and then died off again

- Went to Napa, picked up a pipe fitting to replace the glass-ball piece
- Now the generator is running, but I can't get enough RPM out of it to make 60Hz.

-- Follow up:
There is a large knurled knob at the back of the IP. If I adjust that counterclockwise, I can get the rpm up and get 60Hz, but I don't know if I'm adjusting it correctly. Also, once adjusted so I can get 60Hz, if I then throttle it back (black knob all the way in), the engine begins to hunt and surge. My guess is the IP probably needs some help.

It would appear my problem from yesterday is junk in the return lines. I would guess some has made it's way into the IP, and if it hadn't previously, it certainly is now that the glass check-ball has been removed.

I've tried uploading a photo of my IP but the site says I don't have permission to do that, log in and try again.... but I -am- logged in. Weird.

Anyway, it's a Stanadyne DBMFC 633-1LK and I'm wondering if there is a rebuild kit available for it now.

Asa Jay
 
Last edited:

Korgoth1

New member
191
2
0
Location
radford, va
How many hours on that engine? I have always avoided trying to rebuild pumps and injectors myself, if it were me , I would try cleaning the pump out best I could(does it have an inspection plate?) I have cleaned injectors by soaking in gas, and polishing the tip with a pine dowel soaked in diesel, chucked in a drill. But that doesn't do much for the guts of them, and will not be near as good as a rebuilt, pop tested set. It's amazing the difference a rebuilt IP and injectors can make in an old engine...
 

asajay

New member
21
5
3
Location
Spokane, WA
The hour meter shows 1609. It was used by the local Forest service and Department of Emergency Services for a while and then sat for years unused. It ran alright for at least half an hour last night, maybe longer before I shut it down. Temps are below freezing in Eastern Washington right now and my hands were getting cold. I'll probably fire it up again Friday and use it to run my radio shack, which has some HF radios needing troubleshot. I'll see how well it performs when loaded. :)

I'm also looking for a rebuilt kit (contacted Stanadyne) and found a local diesel repair shop that I'll contact next week. As long as it runs and can give me a stable 60Hz output, I'll hold off any IP rebuild.

I guess this would mean we can close this thread and I'll post a new one when I need help again.

Thank you,
Asa Jay
 
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