MEP-006a - no power/no engine start issue

[fpac]

Hi all. I'm a relatively new member. So far i've just read through various threads to figure out issues with our 998 Humvee and M929 6x6 and now our 006a...we get them through the Federal Excess Property Program.

This is a bit windy, but hopefully it will provide you with enough information to help.

We received a surplus 006a, 60Hz unit, from the forest service a year or so ago with only 200 hours on it for back up power...various buildings, grain system, wells etc. It's been on the back burner, working on it as I have time. I have serviced it and put in two new batteries.

Once I finished servicing it, i was able to start the engine and it ran fine. I had to pull the injection pump after servicing it to replace cup/seal on the shaft...allowing fuel into the oil. The 2nd issue that surfaced was at times the electric fuel pump wouldn't run to fill the day tank when I flipped the battle short switch to make sure the tank was full. Somehow I figured out (about a year ago) I could mess with the temperature safety switch to get the entire system to work. I thought the switch was bad, but in hindsight I think the solder job on some wires within the switch from it's previous life had worked loose and it was simply grounding out. I could tap on the switch housing and the electric pumps would run so I knew I could start the engine. I took the switch apart and could see excess solder, loose wires. Switch mechanism itself was fine. We tried to resolder it but ended up with a bigger mess.

I put on a new coolant switch and now I cannot get the pumps to run with or without the use of the battle short switch. I compared switches with the multi-meter making sure plug pins were the same, continuity was the same etc. At it's previous location, for whatever reason, the oil pressure safety switch and coolant safety switch plug wires were cut and reconnected. I have studied parts of the TM's and believe the wires are going to the correct spot in the plugs. I have checked the battle short switch; off/run/start switch, the DC circuit breaker and generally looked at all the wires to try to make sure I don't have something broken. The fuse on the panel is good. Battle short light comes on when switch is on. All the indicator lights work when I hit the test/reset switch. I have noticed that the low oil pressure light doesn't come on when i flip the battle switch. When I've watched a youtube video posted by Matt Verley (I think he's member here) it looks like his light does come on when he's starting his 006a and goes out when pressure if up.

Checking things with a multi-meter and/or test light I have found that at the oil pressure switch and coolant safety switch when I ground out wires P201C16 (oil) or P200G16 (coolant) based on page 81 of TM-12, the system gets power...ie I hear the fuel pumps kick on.

There is a lot I don't understand on the wiring schematics, esp the page 81 I referenced, so I may very well be overlooking something simple. Within the relay box I don't see a letter C or a letter Z in the "bar" connection to make sure the wires mentioned above are going to the correct stud. Not even sure that where bar "P5" is...or if it's labeled. Pulling numbers off wires within the box, I haven't found them on the schematic on page 81 so I may be looking at the wrong page at that point?? It is a bit of a mess within the box...some of the zip ties on the looms were cut and some of the wire ends in the relay box assembly appear to have been replaced...newer red connectors vs what i assume are the original whitish gray ends. i've also referred to the schematic on page 64 - "DC troubleshooting diagram" when checking the off/run/start, battle short etc.

As I've attempted to trace the wire loom going to the OP switch, WT switch, FL switch, I've wondered about the relay (I think it's "CR 27" -- about top center on page 81) on the piece of angle iron right above the day tank. It seems to be good. I can put 24 volts to it and hear it click. I think the wires are on it correctly, but it doesn't 'fire' the fuel pumps when I energize the relay... and maybe it shouldn't?

One last issue I'd noticed recently (and it may have been like this since I've had it) is the substance within the thermal converter behind the control panel has leaked out. Looks like hardened epoxy. I realize I'll likely need to replace that at some point, but wasn't sure if it had anything to do with the engine starting.

So my questions for you all. Are there better schematics to follow or a page I need to read? Is there something simple I'm overlooking or having an 'idiot attack" looking right at the obvious? I have thought about simply splicing a wire into P201C16 or P200G16 and running it to the engine block etc, but fear it'll completely bypass a safety switch and have a coolant hose burst and lock up the engine, as an example, trying to cut corners now.

Appreciate any pointers you all might be able to provide. Thanks for your time
Brad

 

[Guyfang]

Dude,

This is way too long. I will try and break it up a bit.

But first, Do you have all the TM's for this set? If you down loaded them from here in SS, they are the best and most current.

Once I finished servicing it, i was able to start the engine and it ran fine. I had to pull the injection pump after servicing it to replace cup/seal on the shaft...allowing fuel into the oil. The 2nd issue that surfaced was at times the electric fuel pump wouldn't run to fill the day tank when I flipped the battle short switch to make sure the tank was full. Somehow I figured out (about a year ago) I could mess with the temperature safety switch to get the entire system to work. I thought the switch was bad, but in hindsight I think the solder job on some wires within the switch from it's previous life had worked loose and it was simply grounding out. I could tap on the switch housing and the electric pumps would run so I knew I could start the engine. I took the switch apart and could see excess solder, loose wires. Switch mechanism itself was fine. We tried to resolder it but ended up with a bigger mess.


I put on a new coolant switch and now I cannot get the pumps to run with or without the use of the battle short switch. I compared switches with the multi-meter making sure plug pins were the same, continuity was the same etc. At it's previous location, for whatever reason, the oil pressure safety switch and coolant safety switch plug wires were cut and reconnected. I have studied parts of the TM's and believe the wires are going to the correct spot in the plugs. I have checked the battle short switch; off/run/start switch, the DC circuit breaker and generally looked at all the wires to try to make sure I don't have something broken. The fuse on the panel is good. Battle short light comes on when switch is on. All the indicator lights work when I hit the test/reset switch. I have noticed that the low oil pressure light doesn't come on when i flip the battle switch. When I've watched a youtube video posted by Matt Verley (I think he's member here) it looks like his light does come on when he's starting his 006a and goes out when pressure if up. No, that will not normally happen, unless you reset the Fault Indicator. On a normal start up, the S2 (start switch) bypasses the entire safety circuit, so you do not get a low oil pressure light.

Checking things with a multi-meter and/or test light I have found that at the oil pressure switch and coolant safety switch when I ground out wires P201C16 (oil) or P200G16 (coolant) based on page 81 of TM-12, the system gets power...ie I hear the fuel pumps kick on. This is strange, and we will get back to it later.

There is a lot I don't understand on the wiring schematics, esp the page 81 I referenced, so I may very well be overlooking something simple. Within the relay box I don't see a letter C or a letter Z in the "bar" connection (What is a Bar connection to you?) to make sure the wires mentioned above are going to the correct stud. Not even sure that where bar "P5" ( P5 is a plug connection on the S/P Relay box) is...or if it's labeled. Pulling numbers off wires within the box, I haven't found them on the schematic on page 81 so I may be looking at the wrong page at that point?? (first lets look at a simple schematic, to see how the system functions. Go to PDF reader page number 67 in the -12 TM. Notice that power comes from S2, (in the start position) to, (not through) S7, then through a K1 set of contacts, through CR6, and to the fuel pumps. ) It is a bit of a mess within the box...some of the zip ties on the looms were cut and some of the wire ends in the relay box assembly appear to have been replaced...newer red connectors vs what i assume are the original whitish gray ends. i've also referred to the schematic on page 64 - "DC troubleshooting diagram" when checking the off/run/start, battle short etc.
To check for this happening, disconnect one of the fuel pump wires. Me sure from that wire to ground, while someone else holds the S2 in the start position. Get 24 volts? If so, that works as its supposed. Try that and report back. Then we can go a step farther.

As I've attempted to trace the wire loom going to the OP switch, WT switch, FL switch, I've wondered about the relay (CR27 is a half wave blocking diode) (I think it's "CR 27" -- about top center on page 81) on the piece of angle iron right above the day tank. (correct) It seems to be good. (what is seems to be good. It is, or its not. There is a procedure to test it.) I can put 24 volts to it and hear it click. (the click you hear it the L2 (fuel cut off solenoid), next to the CR27) I think the wires are on it correctly, but it doesn't 'fire' the fuel pumps when I energize the relay... and maybe it shouldn't? (yes and no. Were getting ahead of the procedure, but I will explain. In the day tank, (the tank right under the CR27 and L2) is a fuel Float System. It can be a one float, or two, but the switch has both sets of contacts in it. FL-1 and Fl-2. The float tells the gen set two things. One, (FL-2, REPLINISH function, tells the fuel pumps to fill up the day tank. When the tank is full, the contacts open and the L2 closes off, and the fuel pumps can not pump more fuel to the day tank. But the fuel pumps remain powered up. Its just that the solenoid blocks off the fuel, and the pumps can no longer pump. FL-1, (engine cut off function) shuts the gen set off, when the day tank goes dry, to prevent the engine running completely dry.

One last issue I'd noticed recently (and it may have been like this since I've had it) is the substance within the thermal converter behind the control panel has leaked out. Looks like hardened epoxy. I realize I'll likely need to replace that at some point, but wasn't sure if it had anything to do with the engine starting. (no it has nothing to do with starting)

So my questions for you all. Are there better schematics to follow or a page I need to read? Is there something simple I'm overlooking or having an 'idiot attack" looking right at the obvious? (we can work this out. Just take it one step at a time.) I have thought about simply splicing a wire into P201C16 or P200G16 and running it to the engine block etc, but fear it'll completely bypass a safety switch and have a coolant hose burst and lock up the engine, as an example, trying to cut corners now. (That could happen, yes)

 

[fpac]

Dude,

This is way too long. I will try and break it up a bit. I wasn't quite sure the best method to put all of the info out there without getting "20 questions". Thanks for taking the time to sort through it. I read through various forums looking for info, but rarely respond/post so if there is a more efficient manner to break this up, you won't hurt my feelings.

But first, Do you have all the TM's for this set? If you down loaded them from here in SS, they are the best and most current. Downloaded them now just to be sure we are working off same set of prints.

Once I finished servicing it, i was able to start the engine and it ran fine. I had to pull the injection pump after servicing it to replace cup/seal on the shaft...allowing fuel into the oil. The 2nd issue that surfaced was at times the electric fuel pump wouldn't run to fill the day tank when I flipped the battle short switch to make sure the tank was full. Somehow I figured out (about a year ago) I could mess with the temperature safety switch to get the entire system to work. I thought the switch was bad, but in hindsight I think the solder job on some wires within the switch from it's previous life had worked loose and it was simply grounding out. I could tap on the switch housing and the electric pumps would run so I knew I could start the engine. I took the switch apart and could see excess solder, loose wires. Switch mechanism itself was fine. We tried to resolder it but ended up with a bigger mess.


I put on a new coolant switch and now I cannot get the pumps to run with or without the use of the battle short switch. I compared switches with the multi-meter making sure plug pins were the same, continuity was the same etc. At it's previous location, for whatever reason, the oil pressure safety switch and coolant safety switch plug wires were cut and reconnected. I have studied parts of the TM's and believe the wires are going to the correct spot in the plugs. I have checked the battle short switch; off/run/start switch, the DC circuit breaker and generally looked at all the wires to try to make sure I don't have something broken. The fuse on the panel is good. Battle short light comes on when switch is on. All the indicator lights work when I hit the test/reset switch. I have noticed that the low oil pressure light doesn't come on when i flip the battle switch. When I've watched a youtube video posted by Matt Verley (I think he's member here) it looks like his light does come on when he's starting his 006a and goes out when pressure if up. No, that will not normally happen, unless you reset the Fault Indicator. On a normal start up, the S2 (start switch) bypasses the entire safety circuit, so you do not get a low oil pressure light. Okay, thanks for the clarification.

Checking things with a multi-meter and/or test light I have found that at the oil pressure switch and coolant safety switch when I ground out wires P201C16 (oil) or P200G16 (coolant) based on page 81 of TM-12, the system gets power...ie I hear the fuel pumps kick on. This is strange, and we will get back to it later.

There is a lot I don't understand on the wiring schematics, esp the page 81 I referenced, so I may very well be overlooking something simple. Within the relay box I don't see a letter C or a letter Z in the "bar" connection (What is a Bar connection to you?) the "bar" across the bottom of the box..will see if I can get a picture attached...seem to be in segments. A set of wires, an open spot, another set of wires and open spot. In the picture I placed my index and middle finger in the open spots to illustrate what I'm looking at and referring to. to make sure the wires mentioned above are going to the correct stud. Not even sure that where bar "P5" ( P5 is a plug connection on the S/P Relay box) the plugs I see are labeled J5, J10, R31 etc, so that contributed to my confusion ...or if it's labeled.



Pulling numbers off wires within the box, I haven't found them on the schematic on page 81 so I may be looking at the wrong page at that point?? (first lets look at a simple schematic, to see how the system functions. Go to PDF reader page number 67 in the -12 TM. Notice that power comes from S2, (in the start position) to, (not through) S7, then through a K1 set of contacts, through CR6, and to the fuel pumps. ) It is a bit of a mess within the box...some of the zip ties on the looms were cut and some of the wire ends in the relay box assembly appear to have been replaced...newer red connectors vs what i assume are the original whitish gray ends. i've also referred to the schematic on page 64 - "DC troubleshooting diagram" when checking the off/run/start, battle short etc.
To check for this happening, disconnect one of the fuel pump wires. Me sure from that wire to ground, while someone else holds the S2 in the start position. Get 24 volts? If so, that works as its supposed. Try that and report back. Then we can go a step farther. NO luck getting voltage at the fuel pump connections. Pulled both rubber connections apart and checked each for voltage.

As I've attempted to trace the wire loom going to the OP switch, WT switch, FL switch, I've wondered about the relay (CR27 is a half wave blocking diode) (I think it's "CR 27" -- about top center on page 81) on the piece of angle iron right above the day tank. (correct) It seems to be good. (what is seems to be good. It is, or its not. There is a procedure to test it.) I can put 24 volts to it and hear it click. (the click you hear it the L2 (fuel cut off solenoid), next to the CR27) I think the wires are on it correctly, but it doesn't 'fire' the fuel pumps when I energize the relay... and maybe it shouldn't? (yes and no. Were getting ahead of the procedure, but I will explain. In the day tank, (the tank right under the CR27 and L2) is a fuel Float System. It can be a one float, or two, but the switch has both sets of contacts in it. FL-1 and Fl-2. The float tells the gen set two things. One, (FL-2, REPLINISH function, tells the fuel pumps to fill up the day tank. When the tank is full, the contacts open and the L2 closes off, and the fuel pumps can not pump more fuel to the day tank. But the fuel pumps remain powered up. Its just that the solenoid blocks off the fuel, and the pumps can no longer pump. FL-1, (engine cut off function) shuts the gen set off, when the day tank goes dry, to prevent the engine running completely dry.

One last issue I'd noticed recently (and it may have been like this since I've had it) is the substance within the thermal converter behind the control panel has leaked out. Looks like hardened epoxy. I realize I'll likely need to replace that at some point, but wasn't sure if it had anything to do with the engine starting. (no it has nothing to do with starting) okay

So my questions for you all. Are there better schematics to follow or a page I need to read? Is there something simple I'm overlooking or having an 'idiot attack" looking right at the obvious? (we can work this out. Just take it one step at a time.) I have thought about simply splicing a wire into P201C16 or P200G16 and running it to the engine block etc, but fear it'll completely bypass a safety switch and have a coolant hose burst and lock up the engine, as an example, trying to cut corners now. (That could happen, yes)

Appreciate your time.

 

[Guyfang]

There is a lot I don't understand on the wiring schematics, esp the page 81 I referenced, so I may very well be overlooking something simple. Within the relay box I don't see a letter C or a letter Z in the "bar" connection (What is a Bar connection to you?) the "bar" across the bottom of the box..will see if I can get a picture attached...seem to be in segments. A set of wires, an open spot, another set of wires and open spot. In the picture I placed my index and middle finger in the open spots to illustrate what I'm looking at and referring to. to make sure the wires mentioned above are going to the correct stud. Not even sure that where bar "P5" ( P5 is a plug connection on the S/P Relay box) the plugs I see are labeled J5, J10, R31 etc, so that contributed to my confusion ...or if it's labeled.

OK, got ya now! The Bar is called a TB. Terminal Board. Next to the TM should be a TB number, Like TB1 or TB4. And yes, because of the red terminals, I would be checking out each wire, to see if its hooked up right. Almost all components of the set are labeled. Just got to look a bit sometimes, and sometimes the dirt and rust hide the writing. So if you look at the schematic, for that TB, you will find what goes where. Its not hard, just have to concentrate.


To check for this happening, disconnect one of the fuel pump wires. Me sure from that wire to ground, while someone else holds the S2 in the start position. Get 24 volts? If so, that works as its supposed. Try that and report back. Then we can go a step farther. NO luck getting voltage at the fuel pump connections. Pulled both rubber connections apart and checked each for voltage.

OK, if you get no 24VDC at the electric fuel pump wires, when you hold the S2 in the start position, then the next step is to check the A5 card in the Special relay box. You know where that is, so pull the 6, (or more probably 4 ) bolts out that hold it in. Take the Cannon plugs off. Pull out the box. Pull the two screws out that hold the box together. The A5 card is bolted to the side of the box. Look for CR6. See if it has burn marks, or looks burnt up. Its a diode. The way to check the diode is to remove wire # P50L from terminal #21, and remove wire # P51E from terminal #23. Then the CR6 is isolated from everything else. Do you know how to test a diode? If not, on your multimeter should be a test position for diodes. Switch it to that position and place the red lead on terminal #21 and the black on #23. You should get 0, (zero) ohms, or near about that. Reverse the leads, and you should get no Ohms, or the meter might read OL. In any case, continuity in one direction, and none in the other. If a bunch of wire are all looking like they have new red terminals, maybe we should also check to see that the A% is hooked up right.

 

[fpac]

There is a lot I don't understand on the wiring schematics, esp the page 81 I referenced, so I may very well be overlooking something simple. Within the relay box I don't see a letter C or a letter Z in the "bar" connection (What is a Bar connection to you?) the "bar" across the bottom of the box..will see if I can get a picture attached...seem to be in segments. A set of wires, an open spot, another set of wires and open spot. In the picture I placed my index and middle finger in the open spots to illustrate what I'm looking at and referring to. to make sure the wires mentioned above are going to the correct stud. Not even sure that where bar "P5" ( P5 is a plug connection on the S/P Relay box) the plugs I see are labeled J5, J10, R31 etc, so that contributed to my confusion ...or if it's labeled.

OK, got ya now! The Bar is called a TB. Terminal Board. Next to the TM should be a TB number, Like TB1 or TB4. And yes, because of the red terminals, I would be checking out each wire, to see if its hooked up right. Almost all components of the set are labeled. Just got to look a bit sometimes, and sometimes the dirt and rust hide the writing. So if you look at the schematic, for that TB, you will find what goes where. Its not hard, just have to concentrate.

Some of the wires are labeled. It appears the wires with the red terminals were replaced with plain mil spec wire, but i have found the Special Relay box TB schematic laid out in Figure 5-27 of the -34 TM, so will be spending some time trying to sort through it all.

To check for this happening, disconnect one of the fuel pump wires. Me sure from that wire to ground, while someone else holds the S2 in the start position. Get 24 volts? If so, that works as its supposed. Try that and report back. Then we can go a step farther. NO luck getting voltage at the fuel pump connections. Pulled both rubber connections apart and checked each for voltage.

OK, if you get no 24VDC at the electric fuel pump wires, when you hold the S2 in the start position, then the next step is to check the A5 card in the Special relay box. You know where that is, so pull the 6, (or more probably 4 ) bolts out that hold it in. Take the Cannon plugs off. Pull out the box. Pull the two screws out that hold the box together. The A5 card is bolted to the side of the box. Look for CR6. See if it has burn marks, or looks burnt up. Its a diode. The way to check the diode is to remove wire # P50L from terminal #21, and remove wire # P51E from terminal #23. Then the CR6 is isolated from everything else. Do you know how to test a diode? If not, on your multimeter should be a test position for diodes. Switch it to that position and place the red lead on terminal #21 and the black on #23. You should get 0, (zero) ohms, or near about that. Reverse the leads, and you should get no Ohms, or the meter might read OL. In any case, continuity in one direction, and none in the other. If a bunch of wire are all looking like they have new red terminals, maybe we should also check to see that the A5 is hooked up right.

The C6 diode tested 'good'. Multi-meter showed 0.74 going from #21 to #23 and OL going from #23 to #21. In the process of moving the A5 card around I snagged the "p"/P80B wire connected to the J5 plug and pulled it off. It had previously been soldered so will see if I can extract the pin and fix it.

 

[Guyfang]

The pin should push out. I will try and find that wire number and see where it goes and what it might do. Need to get at my computer to do that.

 

[Guyfang]

J5-P wire P80B goes to TB101-6

 

[fpac]

Still slowly working at this. I did get the P80B pin extracted and wire resoldered and it is connected to TB101-6 as it's supposed to be. I've found some weak connections in the special relay box and put new terminal ends or spliced the wire, but so far nothing to fix the issue.

 

[Guyfang]

Have you pulled out and tested FL-1 and FL-2 float switch? If the switch is not working right, the pumps can not function right. FL-1 is suposed to be open, to keep K8 from being energized. K8 is the low fuel shut off. FL-2 is the replenish circuit. It controls the L2. If the is colsed, then the pumps can not pump fuel, as the system is "closed" and the fuel can not go anyplace, so the pumps do not run. Test procedure is in the TM. Simple test. If you can not find it, say something and I will look it up.

 

[fpac]

Have you pulled out and tested FL-1 and FL-2 float switch? If the switch is not working right, the pumps can not function right. FL-1 is suposed to be open, to keep K8 from being energized. K8 is the low fuel shut off. FL-2 is the replenish circuit. It controls the L2. If the is colsed, then the pumps can not pump fuel, as the system is "closed" and the fuel can not go anyplace, so the pumps do not run. Test procedure is in the TM. Simple test. If you can not find it, say something and I will look it up.

Yes, sorry I failed to include that in the original post when i was referencing tracing the wires and the CR27 comment. To confirm though, i followed the procedure in -12 TM which is section 3-159 that is on page 206 in my pdf file.

 

[Guyfang]

Have you finished repair of the special relay box? If so, don't put the bottom part on. Leave it open. Take two pieces of wire about 2 meters long. put a ring connector on the end of both of them, on one side. Then attach them to terminals 21 and 23 of the A5 card. Hook up the S/P relay box. Then take the wire attached to terminal 23, and touch it to the positive starter terminal. Do the pumps come on? If they do, then try the wire attached to terminal 21 on the A5 card. Do the pumps run? You do not even have to start the set, or put the S2 in the run position. This should work with everything turned off.

 

[fpac]

The fuel pumps run when connecting either 21 or 23

 

[Guyfang]

Now we are getting someplace. Now we KNOW, that from A5-21, through CR6, through TB102-18, and all the way to the pumps, everything is good. We have no breaks and a good ground. Whenever troubleshoots a 60 KW, your best friend is TM 5-6115-545-12, PDF reader page 62.

Take the two temporary wire off the A5 card. Then check from A5-21, check wire number P50L, that runs to terminal TB101-3 or 4 or 5. All these terminals are jumped, they all are connected together. If its good, then go to the A4 card, (in the control panel) and and without turning anything on other then the CB1, (DC power ) take a short wire and go from the R13, (Ammeter shunt) the positive side, to terminal A4-9. The pumps should run.

 

[fpac]

Sounds promising!

I ran the jumper wire from A5-21 to TB101-3 and then from R13 to A4-9. Fuel pumps ran in both instances.

 

[Guyfang]

OK, we are kookin with gas here. Now, hook everything up like it should be. Then push in CB1. Then place the S2 in the start position. Have someone else do that while you measure from ground to first A4-9. Got 24 VDC volts? If so, the pumps should run. If not 24 VDC on pin A4-9, then measure on A4-7. Got 24VDC? If so, K1 relay is not closing, or the set of contacts are not closing. If no 24 VDC is present, switch the meter to ohms, and measure between A4-7 and A4-9. Got continuity? If so, K1 works, but you then need to go to S2-3, and see if you have 24 VDC. Got 24 VDC, then check the wire number P45A, that goes between S2-3 and TB1-10, then the wire number P45E, that goes between TB1-10 and A4-7. Thats the whole path. tell me what you get. Its midnight and I am going to bed. Good luck.

 

[fpac]

Ok, I do not get 24V when checking A4-9, but I do get 24V when I check A4-7. I do have continuity between A4-9 and A4-7, between S2-3 and TB1-10, and continuity between TB1-10 and A4-7.

 

[Guyfang]

Walk around to the left side of the gen set.
Take the 4 nuts off that hold the A4 card to the back of the control panel.
Pull the card forward and look at the back side.
What do you see? A burnt trace on the back of the card?

 

[fpac]

A4 doesn't appear burnt, but it does look like somebody has tried to solve an issue before. Or at least I suspect the silver colored solder isn't original?

 

[Guyfang]

Roger. Check that out good. Also, its my fault, but we should have tested the contacts on A4, 7 & 9 differently. I should have told you to disconnect the wire to A4-7, tape the end off, and THEN mesure for continuity. If you did not remove at least one of the wires, you probably got a false reading. Try testing it like last time, only when its time to test the continuity between the two points, remove the wire.

Our biggest problem here is that I am too many time zones away from you, and we are both not on line at the same time.

 

[fpac]

I removed the wire from the A4-7 screw and checked for continuity between the A4-7 and A4-9 screws. No continuity this time.

I checked the 'silver' soldered area on the backside of the A4. Holding my leads on each end of the solder 'streak' the repair job does check out for continuity. Not sure what to make of it otherwise...possibly damaged underneath?

Don't worry about speedy responses on my part. We're calving and I'm jumping from one fire to another so I take it step by step. I greatly appreciate you breaking this down for me as it's still speeding up the process on my end. I've got page 62 rolled out on the bench in the shop and when you point out this or that, it makes sense...but seems to be a fog until that point. Just need more time to focus on it I guess.