Mep 006A no start

Yeats006

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Greenwood, In
So far I’ve replaced fuel filters, and oil filters, drained old fuel out of day tank and fuel tank. Engine cranks over and I’ve noticed there is no clicking from the shutdown solenoid in the pump. I took the top off the pump and I’m not sure what the voltage should be at the 2 pins for the solenoid? I’ve got 24v at both all the time, and the dead man switch makes no difference either. Same voltages on or off.

Can anybody shed some light on this for me?
 

Guyfang

Well-known member
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Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Have you downloaded the TM's?
Have you tried looking at the troubleshooting diagram?
Is this gen set new to you? Or have you seen it work right?
Can you read schematics?
What is a "dead man switch"?
yes, you should have 24 volts at the L4 fuel cutoff solinoid.
 

Yeats006

New member
4
0
0
Location
Greenwood, In
Have you downloaded the TM's? Yes
Have you tried looking at the troubleshooting diagram?
Yes
Is this gen set new to you? Yes
Or have you seen it work right? No, bought not running, supposedly pickled but I’m pretty sure they would not have left diesel in the tank.
Can you read schematics? Auto and diesel tech on the side, but not a electrical specialist
What is a "dead man switch"? The switch right by the injection pump. Has 24v in and 24v out with the switch on or off.
yes, you should have 24 volts at the L4 fuel cutoff solenoid. On both studs? I’m used to a Cummins with a pull wire, hold wire, and a ground.
 

Guyfang

Well-known member
7,586
1,334
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Have you downloaded the TM's? Yes
Have you tried looking at the troubleshooting diagram?
Yes
Is this gen set new to you? Yes
Or have you seen it work right? No, bought not running, supposedly pickled but I’m pretty sure they would not have left diesel in the tank.
Can you read schematics? Auto and diesel tech on the side, but not a electrical specialist
What is a "dead man switch"? The switch right by the injection pump. Has 24v in and 24v out with the switch on or off. (This should be the S22 dead crank switch)
yes, you should have 24 volts at the L4 fuel cutoff solenoid. On both studs? (how did you mesure this? One wire is hot, (P86A) one wire, (P55X) is ground. When I measure at this place, I take the wires off. Measure VDC from a good ground to wire P86A, with the S2, (engine start switch) in the Start position, you should get 24 VDC. Measure Ohms from a good ground to wire P55X. Should get continuity. If you still have the top of the IP, (L1, fuel cut off solenoid) off, hook wires P55X and P86A back up. Holding the L1 in your hand, have someone turn S2 to the start position. The small "flapper" should move. It is to open and close the fuel going into the IP. Try this and let us know what happens. while the I’m used to a Cummins with a pull wire, hold wire, and a ground.
So far I’ve replaced fuel filters, and oil filters, drained old fuel out of day tank and fuel tank. Engine cranks over and I’ve noticed there is no clicking from the shutdown solenoid in the pump. I took the top off the pump and I’m not sure what the voltage should be at the 2 pins for the solenoid? I’ve got 24v at both all the time, and the dead man switch, (S22. It should only have 24VDC on both terminals if the switch is broken, or mis wired. The purpose of S22 is to allow you to rotate the engine without starting. When it in the run position, it should have 24VDC on both terminals. In the crank (OFF) position, only one terminal is hot.) makes no difference either. Same voltages on or off.

Please tell me what you have done to this gen set before starting this thread.
 

Yeats006

New member
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Location
Greenwood, In
So... i figured out the remote switch was in the wrong position. Now the shutdown solenoid is working! Still doesn’t run, I don’t think the pump is any good to be honest. It just dribbles fuel out of the banjo bolts that go to each cylinder off the pump.
 
308
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16
Location
Bear Creek PA
Did you bleed the injection pump ? the roosa master pump has an air bleeding procedure. Also some early units had a woodruff key in the pump shaft that would shear if the injection pump was stuck or bound up. I had two of my early MEP006 generators do that.
 

Guyfang

Well-known member
7,586
1,334
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
So... i figured out the remote switch was in the wrong position. Now the shutdown solenoid is working! Still doesn’t run, I don’t think the pump is any good to be honest. It just dribbles fuel out of the banjo bolts that go to each cylinder off the pump.
The remote switch will do it every time! Lets do some testing before you send off the IP to the shop. Might save some money. Batteries charged?

Did you see the L1, (fuel shut off solenoid) work? Or just hear it? Big difference.

1. Push the CB1, (main DC power circuit breaker) in.

2. Turn the S2, (start switch) to the run position.

3. Flip the S7, (Battle Short) switch up. The DS7, (Battle Short light) should come on.

4. Do you hear the B2 & B3, (Electric Fuel Pumps) come on?
a. If they came on, let the pumps run 5 minutes or so. Try and start the set. Keep in mind, the 006A was sometimes a bear to bleed the fuel system. I always crack the #6 injector, to help out the bleeding processes. Crank the engine no longer then 60 seconds at a time. Then let it cool the starter a bit, before you try again. Try maybe 2-3 times to start the set. If it wont start, then we need to try something else.
b. If the B2 & B3 do not come on, unhook the wires to the B2 and B3. Take a wire, and go to the positive side of the starter to the pump B2 wire. Will it pump? Repeat with B3. Do they both pump? Or not?
 

Yeats006

New member
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Location
Greenwood, In
Thank you for the info guys! I found a clogged fuel line causing my issue. The braided line from the fuel box to the secondary fuel filter was just barely flowing any fuel. Cleared it and the generator fired up and sounds good! The gauge says it’s putting out 220v.
 

Guyfang

Well-known member
7,586
1,334
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Thank you for the info guys! I found a clogged fuel line causing my issue. The braided line from the fuel box to the secondary fuel filter was just barely flowing any fuel. Cleared it and the generator fired up and sounds good! The gauge says it’s putting out 220v.

Well that was cheaper then sending it off to the IP repair shop.

thanks for closing the lupe.
 
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