MEP-1050 Fault Code 3665

[BadAmish]

Hello All,
Just found this site from a YouTube video with another MEP generator owner. We just got a MEP-1050 and are in the process of attempting to start it for the Forst time (for us).

We are getting a fault code 3665 - see attachment - and am looking for tips on where to start looking. I think I also saw a fault 3664, but cannot find where I saw it. It might have been in the maintenance or adjustments screen.



Besides the error code the shipper damaged the top cover and two side covers so were are being asked by the shippers insurance for estimates for repairs. I found a HVAC company that does sheet metal work but this may exceed their capabilities, hope to find out today if they even want to try. Any suggestions on where to source new/used covers of where to look for a capable repair company in my area which is Southern Oregon.

Thanks in advance for any comments.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

Start with the Technical manuals at the top of this page under generatorshttps://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-1050-1051-ammps-15kw-6115-01-561-7634.158377/. I can tell several things from the screen that 1 E-stop is pushed, 2 reset the faults before you do anything and check what position the voltage selector switch is set at

 

[kloppk]

The Maintenance and Repair TM 9-6115-751-24&P has information both of those faults. See below...


The A2 board has the DIP switches (S1) on it to set the engine model ID. The DCS reads the DIP switch to know what configuration the generator is.

 

[BadAmish]

Thank you for your reply.
I think I was powering down the system when I took that photo of the screen which is probably why it indicated the emergency stop situation.

I checked the DIP switches and mine are set to Bit 0=On, Bit 1=On, Bit 3=Off, Bit 4=Off. I found that here:



I also found that the 48 VDC circuit breaker appears to be defective because it will not stay in the "On" position even with no batteries installed.



I do not know if this circuit breaker may be causing any errors or not, or just not allowing the generator to start.

 

[BadAmish]

I was trying to find out the location of the switches you indicated in these photos:





But I could not locate them.

 

[kloppk]

I was trying to find out the location of the switches you indicated in these photos:

View attachment 949741

View attachment 949742

But I could not locate them.

Ignore those diagrams I posted. Unfortunately the 1050 -24 TM publicly available is loaded with errors. The diagrams I had posted from the 1050 TM are incorrect. Seems they hastily put together that TM version and included 1030/1030 diagrams and not 1050 diagrams.
The 1050's output is changed from 120/208 3 Phase to 240/416 3 Phase using the moveable reconnection plate, not a rotary switch as shown in the TM schematics.
Unfortunately the current updated version of the TM is not publicly available. Ugh...

That 80 amp CB is the main 24 volt disconnect/CB. It controls DC power to almost all of the 1050.

 

[BadAmish]

Even though that 80 AMP breaker is in the OFF position the screen comes on and I can access the various menus. I hear the fuel pump when I switch to "Prime and Run" but the starter motor will not turn. I have a new 80 AMP circuit breaker ordered and hopefully will arrive tomorrow.

I think the voltage selection is done somehow under this panel:



The manual I have is missing the figure image for this part. How weird is that. Anyway I have not removed it yet to see what is behind it because I was waiting to see if replacing the circuit breaker would change anything.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

You said the panels were damaged in transit. what exactly happend. Do you have something grounding out. I had a 1030 with a messed up starter that created a dead short in the 24v system, but interested to see more pictures of the damage and what it looks like inside. The screen should not display if that circuit breaker is turned off. I have not read through the 1050 manual but on the 1030, and 1040 that is the case and should be the same.

 

[BadAmish]

The damage looks to be mostly to the housing top and ends. The ends are bowed out. You can see they crunched the top pretty good. The front door and one of the latch handles got tweaked. I straightened the door lip as good as I could with some channel lock pliers so the bent lip would not damage the rubber door seal so I could close it.






I have not found anywhere inside the cabinet where the damage would affect any internal parts.

BTW, if you know where I can get estimates for the repairs for this I would appreciate it for the shipper's insurance. The only local company that I found that can do sheet metal isn't really sure they want to try fixing it.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

The damage looks to be mostly to the housing top and ends. The ends are bowed out. You can see they crunched the top pretty good. The front door and one of the latch handles got tweaked. I straightened the door lip as good as I could with some channel lock pliers so the bent lip would not damage the rubber door seal so I could close it.

View attachment 949746


View attachment 949747

I have not found anywhere inside the cabinet where the damage would affect any internal parts.

BTW, if you know where I can get estimates for the repairs for this I would appreciate it for the shipper's insurance. The only local company that I found that can do sheet metal isn't really sure they want to try fixing it.

Thats bad. One thing to note is the solargizer does produce voltage so make sure that is not touching the case. Although not a huge amount of voltage it can give some stray juice. When ever i ship Generators i have specific notes about not stacking items on the unit because they are all aluminum housings. It will be tough getting new panels unless Cummins would sell them, but taking all the covers off a lot of the damage could be bent back out.

 

[Guyfang]

I have fixed worse damage than that with a hammer and a few tools. You can forget new skin for this set. I would start a parts wanted thread, in case anyone has a set they are raping to sell parts off of. Disconnect the solargizer, just to take it out of the realm of causing problems. If you want, you can look at the parts TM and look up the NSN's to see what the new price cost of the damaged parts is, but finding them new will be a problem.

 

[Guyfang]

If you want me to make the diagrams thread go away, tell me what post number to delete.

 

[peapvp]

The damage looks to be mostly to the housing top and ends. The ends are bowed out. You can see they crunched the top pretty good. The front door and one of the latch handles got tweaked. I straightened the door lip as good as I could with some channel lock pliers so the bent lip would not damage the rubber door seal so I could close it.

View attachment 949746


View attachment 949747

I have not found anywhere inside the cabinet where the damage would affect any internal parts.

BTW, if you know where I can get estimates for the repairs for this I would appreciate it for the shipper's insurance. The only local company that I found that can do sheet metal isn't really sure they want to try fixing it.

Any halfway decent auto body repair shop should be able to get them fixed up in a jiffy

 

[Tinstar]

I agree

That is fixable and while it “looks” bad, a few hours with tools will get that in decent shape.

Won’t look new, but much better than it is now.

 

[BadAmish]

If you want, you can look at the parts TM and look up the NSN's to see what the new price cost of the damaged parts is, but finding them new will be a problem.

@Guyfang - I'm not sure what a parts TM or NSN are. Can you give me an example?

@peapvp - Thank you for that idea. I had considered it but due to the thickness of the metal I didn't even try calling one. I will check into this today.

@Tinstar - Thank you also. I did get the door tweak out with some channel lock pliers. It sure is not pretty but I can at least close that door without destroying the rubber seal now.

 

[peapvp]

The correct TM ( Technical Manual ) is TM 9-6115-751-24&P
Date: 1 July 2011

The Voltage connection board is on PDF Page 541; Document Page 0055-13

 

[BadAmish]

The correct TM ( Technical Manual ) is TM 9-6115-751-24&P
Date: 1 July 2011

The Voltage connection board is on PDF Page 541; Document Page 0055-13

The correct TM ( Technical Manual ) is TM 9-6115-751-24&P
Date: 1 July 2011

The Voltage connection board is on PDF Page 541; Document Page 0055-13

Is it on my side or is the "Figure 7" image missing from this PDF?

 

[peapvp]

Is it on my side or is the "Figure 7" image missing from this PDF?

It shows on my end here. You may want to use a different pdf viewer

 

[peapvp]

 

[Tinstar]

If you can get it inside and take those damaged covers off, a 2lb hammer, block of hardwood or chunk of steel and miscellaneous for the small and tight places, you would be surprised how well it will turn out.

Just take your time and don’t just start banging away.

It will work