MEP-802 hose connections- assistance!

[jamawieb]

The bar connection is actually on the opposite end of the board. If you look through the door where you check the oil and look at the board from the back, you should see the bar connection going from GND to N lug.

 

[Guyfang]

diverting for a minute..does this pic (with a bar connection) indicate the Ground and Neutral are bonded?

Roger that! They are connected. Easy way to check is use a multimeter. Turn it to Ohms, go from LO to N. Got continuity? Then they are bonded.

CB-1 is the DC circuit breaker for the control panel. When its out, nothing will start or run on the set. Doesn't mean there is no voltage anyplace in the control panel. Just means the controls are shut off from voltage. Big difference when you drop a wrench into the control panel.

FU-1 is the DC charging circuit fuse. When its popped, the DC alternator will not charge the batteries. Is it blowing before you try and start? Or after? And yes, I think you need to look at your cabling.

You do not have to pull CB-1 out before hooking up Batteries, if S-1 start switch is in the off position. But I ALWAYS pull it out when I turn off the set. If someone leaves the S-1 in the run position, and CB-1 is pushed in, you will come back to dead batteries.

 

[kwartk]

thanks all...Guyfang, yes the FU-1 seems to blow even before I try and start. Actually it looks like it blows when I connect the negative terminal to the battery..am completely stumped now..

 

[bsmall]

Are your battery terminals reversed? Here's a pic of my 802a.


the negative of battery 1 should go to the lower down chassis connection, and the positive of battery 2 should go to the top connection.

 

[kwartk]

hmm..thx..so the one i got may have had the wiring reversed...I will re-connect as shown... will i have caused possible damage wit the wrong connection? thx..

 

[kwartk]

Fellow Steelers,

thanks!!!! for the education!. yes it was indeed reversed wiring. still miffed as to how/why it came out of the army auction mis-wired.. The gen started with no smoke !. Here is what I noted.
1. Moved the Master Switch to "PRIME & RUN" .........ticking/knocking sound from the fuel pump...
2. Moved the Master Switch to "START' ......Gen started immediately, and runs
3. Generator seems to shake/vibrate out of the norm, not sure why...
4. The OIL PRESSURE seems to be way out there >=80!!...the TM says should be between 25-60 .any pointers?

The gen runs for about 2-3 mins and shuts down with a "NO FUEL" Fault Indicator Light on...I have filled it with 1/2 tank so I know definitely nothing to do with fuel level in tank....When I move Master Switch to STOP and start the sequence again, the "NO FUEL FAULT LIGHT" seems to automatically disappear/reset and I can start the gen with no problem.
----could this shutdown be due to air in the lines??? or indicative of a fuel pump issue? I observed the same ticking/knocking sound from the auxiliary pump also when I move the Master Switch to "PRIME & RUN AUX FUEL"

as always ever grateful for any pointers or advice ...Thx

 

[jamawieb]

Fellow Steelers,

thanks!!!! for the education!. yes it was indeed reversed wiring. still miffed as to how/why it came out of the army auction mis-wired.. The gen started with no smoke !. Here is what I noted.
1. Moved the Master Switch to "PRIME & RUN" .........ticking/knocking sound from the fuel pump...
2. Moved the Master Switch to "START' ......Gen started immediately, and runs
3. Generator seems to shake/vibrate out of the norm, not sure why...
4. The OIL PRESSURE seems to be way out there >=80!!...the TM says should be between 25-60 .any pointers?

The gen runs for about 2-3 mins and shuts down with a "NO FUEL" Fault Indicator Light on...I have filled it with 1/2 tank so I know definitely nothing to do with fuel level in tank....When I move Master Switch to STOP and start the sequence again, the "NO FUEL FAULT LIGHT" seems to automatically disappear/reset and I can start the gen with no problem.
----could this shutdown be due to air in the lines??? or indicative of a fuel pump issue? I observed the same ticking/knocking sound from the auxiliary pump also when I move the Master Switch to "PRIME & RUN AUX FUEL"

as always ever grateful for any pointers or advice ...Thx

This is very common. These generators have a safety device that will shut the unit down when the fuel gets low. It's so you don't have to waste time trying to prime the fuel system again. If you have small arms you can reach through the fuel filler neck (after you remove the strainer) and feel to the right, you should feel a float that controls the low fuel fault. Usually if you fill the unit full and run it for a little while it will become unstuck. To keep the unit running so it doesn't shut down, hit the battle short switch on, this will bypass the safety features.

 

[Guyfang]

The TQG oil pressure sending units and meters are world renown for inaccuracy. Put a gage on it and see what you really have for pressure. THEN say its high. There is an article in the P.S. Magazine telling users that the 80 PSI range is NOT high for the 15-60 KW sets. Reason being, refer to the first sentence in this post. I don't see why it should be any different for 5 and 10 KW's.

Why was your set miswired? Well, the Tier two Reset, and most higher level repairs are done by contractors, someplace like Letterkenny, Pa. Depot. Lowest bidder, gets contract. Come the end of the contract, "Just put the darn thing back together, its going to some dumb civilian anyway" is not uncommonly heard. Often, repairs are done by unqualified personnel. Obviously no QA/QC was done. Sad.

Guy

 

[kwartk]

Thanks everyone.. I ended opening up the crankcase and playing around with the pressure relief valve, just making sure it was not stuck..The pressure now seems to be reading around 60 ~ 70 psi, which is ok and within acceptable engineering ranges... I manged to run the set and it is outputting required power on all the legs both in 3-Phase & Single Phase, so am a bit relieved...still have the problem of the system shutting down and indicating NO FUEL error..per the advice above, will try to play around with the fuel floats..so far so good and thanks to all...will get a second unit ~10kw as a backup since i need these to power some critical pumps

 

[Guyfang]

Pull the float switch out and check out the floats, how they move on the rod and if the magnets are opening and closing the contacts properly. Which pins you need to measure across, for which float, are listed in the manual. simple test.

 

[kwartk]

Thanks all.!!!. I played around with the floats. The Gen appears to be working without any of the issues...I have tested it several times and seems to run well. I have yet to call an Electrician to install the required wiring/panels for my pumps.. based on your knowledge and experience is a 5KW generator capable of handling the inrush power requirements of 3-Phase , 2HP pump motors? I am planning on adding additional water transfer pumps at my farm..