Mep-802a, 803a, 002a, 003a air filter flow

[Ratch]

I need to replace an air filter housing for one of my units, and am going with something generic.



This thread was originally asking if anyone knew the max cfm of these gensets air filters, since it appears to be non-existent on spec sheets.





I decided instead to look at the air flow needed for the engines. I'm editing the thread to add the info in case anyone else is looking.





Calculated here:



http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/CFM.html





LPW4 - mep-803a: 53cfm



LPW2 - mep-802a: 27cfm



Mep-003a (140ci): 66cfm



Mep-002a (70ci): 33cfm





The factory air cleaner housing for the 802/803 is labeled as 53 CFM.

The new filter housing I'm going with is this one, at 75 cfm:




Baldwin HSG3078 (for 802/803)


Baldwin HSG3077 (for 002/003)





http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literature\English\3 Proof Source Sheets\form352.pdf





http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/BALDWIN-FILTERS-HSG3078-Housing-and-Filter-HSG3078/41941865



http://baldwinfiltersrus.com/baldwin_filters/part_lookup/HSG3077/




I think $50 for a housing AND filter is pretty good, compared to over $100 for the noisy factory housing, and $30+ for the filter.






The replacement housing will probably reduce noise a hair, and be easier to open for cleaning through the 80x access door. I have the same filter housings on several commercial generators I'm responsible for, and it's a bit less of a pita.

 

[jacobsk]

Great info to have on hand. Thank you for taking the time to share it with the group.

 

[rustystud]

Thanks for the information "ratch" . I just ordered one now. I'll try it out and if it works I'll buy some more for the rest of my generators ! I always did hate how the factory MEP housings always rusted. Out here in the ever raining Pacific Northwest rust is always an issue.

 

[Ratch]

Rustystud, if I recall, you have an 002 and 003 in service. My mind was mostly on my 803 when I wrote that.



Try this one instead;

http://baldwinfiltersrus.com/baldwin_filters/part_lookup/HSG3077/



It's the same unit, but with a right angle output, more appropriate for the 00x's, though you might have to adapt the inlet to right angle once mounted.

 

[rustystud]

Rustystud, if I recall, you have an 002 and 003 in service. My mind was mostly on my 803 when I wrote that.



Try this one instead;

http://baldwinfiltersrus.com/baldwin_filters/part_lookup/HSG3077/



It's the same unit, but with a right angle output, more appropriate for the 00x's, though you might have to adapt the inlet to right angle once mounted.

Now you tell me ! I really ordered it last night ! Oh well, guess I'll try this one and see if I can make it work.

 

[rustystud]

I just decided to order the correct one anyway. Thanks "Ratch" for the link !

 

[Ratch]

Sorry about that! It shouldn't be hard to adapt, though.
I may order one for my 802. If I do, I'll chat with you first,maybe I'll order the right angle output and we can trade.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Thanks for the information "ratch" . I just ordered one now. I'll try it out and if it works I'll buy some more for the rest of my generators ! I always did hate how the factory MEP housings always rusted. Out here in the ever raining Pacific Northwest rust is always an issue.

My JD Gator uses this type of housing. The inlet tube is routed under the seat to keep it from sucking in water. Since the MEP-002/3's air filter housings are normally exposed to the elements one would need to figure out a way to put a rain-cap/pre-filter on it to keep rain/drips and the bugs/wasps out.

Also, this Baldwin housing retrofit will not be able to utilize the pre-heat air option, at least not very easily. Not an issue in the PNW, however if a person lives where it gets into the single digits and below I could see wanting to maintain the air pre-heat option.

I like the idea though especially the no rust aspect and you can't beat that price! Heck, I paid $50 just for a frigging rain-cap/pre-filter to put on the std. Donaldson filter on my last -002a as it was missing the cap.

 

[Ratch]

Some plumbing required... To be continued...

 

[Ratch]

Also, this Baldwin housing retrofit will not be able to utilize the pre-heat air option, at least not very easily. Not an issue in the PNW, however if a person lives where it gets into the single digits and below I could see wanting to maintain the air pre-heat option.

Very true, and that did occur to me when I thought about what would come out in a 002/003 retrofit, but my mind was on the 802/803. I don't think it would be hard to route the inlet hose through the heater, as long as you can tolerate heated air all the time.

 

[Ratch]

One last reply before bed.

When I removed the old air cleaner, I flipped it over to find a sticker with make, model, and CFM... The factory unit flows 58 cfm.

 

[rustystud]

Not being able to use the hot air is no problem for me. I have never used it anyway. In fact the last time I serviced the air filter I spent about an hour trying to free-up the stupid thing ! It had rusted shut. I didn't want rust eating it's way towards the rest of the housing so I took it apart. Cleaned it up. Painted it and reinstalled it. With this new Baldwin housing I'll never have to worry about that again. Yeah !!!

 

[Chainbreaker]

Very true, and that did occur to me when I thought about what would come out in a 002/003 retrofit, but my mind was on the 802/803. I don't think it would be hard to route the inlet hose through the heater, as long as you can tolerate heated air all the time.

Actually, if any MEP-002/3 owners in cold climate locations decided to use the Baldwin filter housing replacement they could plumb it to make it selectable for cold/hot air by installing something similar to an exhaust cut-out "Y" with the diverter flapper thingy. One side of the Y connects to the hot air hose the other to ambient air. Nice to have options!

 

[DieselGenAC]

The rubber duckbill thing ("evacuator valve") on those filters is supposed to point down. Large particles trapped by the filter will drop out the slit in the rubber which opens and closes with vibration and pulses in airflow.

 

[DieselGenAC]

The spinning type precleaners definitely work and greatly increase air filter replacement intervals. Add one if you can. http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/support/datalibrary/000207.pdf

 

[Ratch]

The rubber duckbill thing ("evacuator valve") on those filters is supposed to point down. Large particles trapped by the filter will drop out the slit in the rubber which opens and closes with vibration and pulses in airflow.

Excellent info, the best I always guessed was that it was for accumulated moisture/water drainage during non-running periods, but that never really seemed to be the right answer. Mine in the pic was just slapped in and posing for the camera, not ready for running. I plan to plumb it back to above the engine, and the duckbill will point down.

I was thinking the same thing on the y-pipe, but more like one of these:


Though starting to edge into the cost-saving at $15 with amazon prime.

 

[rustystud]

The spinning type precleaners definitely work and greatly increase air filter replacement intervals. Add one if you can. http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/support/datalibrary/000207.pdf

Thanks "DieselGenAC" for the link. I think I'll order one for my deuce too ! This will replace the mushroom on the intake tube.

 

[Ratch]

I installed the air cleaner in it's permanent location last night.

Rather than create a monstrosity of adapted piping, I used the original piping and created a lesser monstrosity.

I bought a 1.5" to 1.5" neoprene coupling for $3 at Lowes.

I then cut off about 1" length for a ring. I fit that into the inlet side of the original rubber intake hose, then fit the new air cleaner end into that, and tightened.

To fit the air cleaner body in the clamp, I slit the remainder of the coupling to open it, then used that around half the body where the clamp would be. I then cut about 1.5" off the end of the original dirty air intake hose (the one for the original air cleaner inlet, not the one going to the manifold), then slit that open, and wrapped it on the other side of the air cleaner body, under the clamp. Though, you could cut the neoprene coupler into a thinner strip and use it on both sides of the body, between the clamp.

 

[Ratch]

Here are a few pics to match the thousand words...

 

[Chainbreaker]

Nice job, looks like it belongs there! Great adaptation and can't beat that price!