mep 802a ac interupter switch ??

[dogkiller]

I was starting my 802a it runs great & has for a while, now it runs & makes power at the recep. on the side BUT, when I flip the ac interrupter switch nothing happens..
I looked for broken/loose wires ect. I even pretended to be a private & flipped the switch while not looking thinking it might know I was looking.....
I looked at the relays, but don't know which one the switch controls.
I see on the schematic that there is a s8 ac connector switch but couldn't find it on the gen.
SO my question is what do I need to look for??
which relay is in this circuit & can I get a replacement? or am I barking up the wrong tree...
thanks for all the help in the past & in advance for all the help in the future

 

[Speddmon]

I don't have a copy of the schematics for the 802a or I would be glad to take a look at them and try to help you out. Good luck.

 

[dogkiller]

I found a bad relay, the last one on the right side/end of the relay bank..
it was a sigma 68r3-24dc-sco this crosses to a idec rr3b-ulc dc24v.
I haven't been back to replace & test it, but will asap & let everyone know...
maybe when the 802a's start to be more common this info will help....

 

[jbk]

i have an 802 just put 16 hr. for tropical storm lee . have had mine since 03, used it through 3 hurricanes very quiet compaired to my 003 and 002s. didnt have an idea on the interrupter switch. never really had any trouble other than the fuel line manifold, rubber hose leaking. good luck

 

[Ajay]

I just picked one up. The #2 cylinder return fuel line failed, it was covered with paint. I wonder if the paint had a reaction with the hose and made it rot. ?
Did you need to replace any others? All of the others on my machine seem to be in fairly good condition nut I wonder if I should replace them.

 

[dogkiller]

while it's down pull the covers and replace every fuel line you can see the fuel return seems to be the weak link and it's hard to get to..
go to a diesel hose shop and get the best fuel line they have. I found some that is cloth braided..

also my run problem was traced back to a bad diode #2 if I remember correctly.

 

[Ajay]

Thanks for the info DK
I figured that if one fuel line went bad it would just be a matter of time.......
My machine is up and running very well, going to hook up a pig tail and do some load testing soon.
I removed all of the slide stops on the doors, they were rattling and making a lot of noise!

 

[ETN550]

Those fuel hoses can be a PITA to replace.
Chudov's site "Liberated Manuals" has the manual download for free. I also found complete Lister Petter OPW2 manuals on line so you can get the corresponding Lister part Numbers.
The big control relays are behind the "wall" in the back of the control box. The top lid over the control box must be unscrewed and pryed off to gain access. Then it must be re-attached using silicone sealer or else water can and will get in. These instructions are in the manual.

I'm about to get an 802A up and running. Looks like a good unit. It has the classic fuel leak at the drain connection at the tank. It is simply a matter of tightening the fitting increasing the compression on the rubber washer. However, a lot of disassembly is required to get to it. I love those rust free plastic tanks!

802A tip for the day. The square captive nuts used on the housing are available from McMaster-Carr. Any owner of these fine units should keep some handy!

 

[ETN550]

Thanks for the info DK
I figured that if one fuel line went bad it would just be a matter of time.......
My machine is up and running very well, going to hook up a pig tail and do some load testing soon.
I removed all of the slide stops on the doors, they were rattling and making a lot of noise!

I never noticed rattle from the slide stops. I have bent the latching tangs to eliminate slop in the latch when closed. Makes it quieter and nice flush closure on the doors.

 

[dogkiller]

the only other problem I had was the main switch had a plastic shaft that broke
replacements are on e-bay just search 75902lv
buy it now $50. or offer

 

[Ajay]

Hey DK
After reading your post I started searching for a " back up" main switch. While searching I found an entire maintenance kit (PN#DSCC-2815-0031). It included so many items can't even list, relays, hoses, fuses, fuel pumps main switch, even light bulbs and yes the notorious braided fuel lines.......... $300.00 well worth every cent! It was the last one the seller had. Keep an eye out for one, well worth having!

PN#DSCC-2815-0031

 

[dogkiller]

after I read this I searched also, the 0031 number is for the 812 gen set
the number for the 802 is dscc-2815-0030
the kit is probably the same, just another number to look for..
thanks for the info, d.

 

[bookpile]

I was starting my 802a it runs great & has for a while, now it runs & makes power at the recep. on the side BUT, when I flip the ac interrupter switch nothing happens..
I looked for broken/loose wires ect. I even pretended to be a private & flipped the switch while not looking thinking it might know I was looking.....
I looked at the relays, but don't know which one the switch controls.
I see on the schematic that there is a s8 ac connector switch but couldn't find it on the gen.
SO my question is what do I need to look for??
which relay is in this circuit & can I get a replacement? or am I barking up the wrong tree...
thanks for all the help in the past & in advance for all the help in the future

I'm troubleshooting the same problem. Where did you wind up purchasing the diode from. Do you have a part number?

Thanks,

Travis

 

[dogkiller]

no part number just a small diode from radioshack
as I recall remove the top, there will be a row of diodes on the left side behind the control panel.
my notes & drawings are 150 mi. away, let me know if you need more info & I'll get them next time I'm there.
good luck, d.

 

[bookpile]

Thanks for the info. Turns out there was nothing wrong with my set but I'm glad to know the diodes are a Radio Shack thing and not a specialty item.

 

[Korgoth1]

Those fuel hoses can be a PITA to replace.
Chudov's site "Liberated Manuals" has the manual download for free. I also found complete Lister Petter OPW2 manuals on line so you can get the corresponding Lister part Numbers.
The big control relays are behind the "wall" in the back of the control box. The top lid over the control box must be unscrewed and pryed off to gain access. Then it must be re-attached using silicone sealer or else water can and will get in. These instructions are in the manual.

I'm about to get an 802A up and running. Looks like a good unit. It has the classic fuel leak at the drain connection at the tank. It is simply a matter of tightening the fitting increasing the compression on the rubber washer. However, a lot of disassembly is required to get to it. I love those rust free plastic tanks!

802A tip for the day. The square captive nuts used on the housing are available from McMaster-Carr. Any owner of these fine units should keep some handy!

Do you have the part number of the captive nuts handy?

 

[schavez70]

MEP 802A Interrupter Switch

So I have and MEP 802A and it has been started and running great out at our camp.... However tonight I went to start it up and as usual fired right up but the AC Interrupter Switch (I think that is what it is called... its labeled open and closed)... when I go to flip it to closed the green light comes on for a milli second then goes off and I am getting no power output from the generator....

I do not know if it makes any difference but it has worked just fine all winter in freezing temps and today we had a "Heat wave" and it is 50+ Degrees? I have no idea where to start trouble shooting this so any and all help will be greatly appreciated!!!

 

[kloppk]

Does the contactor closed light stay on if you hold the interrupter switch in the close position?

If yes then flip the battle short switch to on and try to close the contactor by momentarily flipping the contactor close switch and see if the light stays on. If it does it indicates the K8 overload relay thinks there is an overload condition or that it's failed or the wiring to/from K8 to S7 has an issue. If no then there is another issue..

If you are able read a schematic take a look at TM 9-6115-641-24 page 279. It shows the wiring of the interrupter switch and how the circuit is suppose to "latch" when you depress the close switch.

Do you have a voltmeter available to use?

With the generator running and the contactor open (no power output) you should see ~+24 volts at:
S5 pin 5
S5 pin 2
S5 pin 1
S5 pin 3
S5 pin 4

When you hold the contactor close switch in the close position all the points listed above should drop to near 0 volts.
Do they?

Here is the area to look at:

 

[Guyfang]

Guys, all the manuals you need are in the Generator manual section of SS. The schematics are also included, extra, and were color coded by someone I know. Makes it easier to use.

Kloppk has got you on the right track. The relays are often the problem. Never hurts to have an extra one.

Guyfang

 

[dogkiller]

I printed the schematics and enlarged the section I was looking at, also highlighted the "path" made it way easy to trace.
I also had a problem with a relay that wasn't plugged in properly, the pins had bent and it wasn't getting a good connection,taught me to be more careful and thorough...