• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

mep-802A gen set

Poccur

Active member
186
97
28
Location
Roanoke, VA
I am no MEPs expert but if you have 120V phase to neutral but 0v phase to phase on a generator that could be because the 'phase to phase' is reading the same phase...there would be 0V of difference, so the meter reads 0v..there is 120V difference between phase and neutral so you get a reading but if both legs have the same phase on them..the meter reads 0V...as they are in phase...
 

csheath

Active member
713
196
43
Location
FL
What do you have the AM/VM switch on the front panel and AC Voltage Reconnection Switch Located Behind Control Panel set at?

Download and read the manual.
 
Last edited:

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
15,991
22,403
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
What do you have the AM/VM switch on the front panel and AC Voltage Reconnection Switch Located Behind Control Panel set at?

Download and read the manual.
Partner, you got to start at the beginning. First step is the above question. Second one the manuals. I once spent 5 hours troubleshooting a problem, only to find that a switch was in the wrong position. I felt pretty stupid.
 

Dwnorton1

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
400
23
18
Location
Healdton Oklahoma/ SOOK
That changes things a bit. If you are relying simply on the instrumentation on generator and not a multimeter to verify. Never truely trust these until you have validated them with external device.
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,521
741
113
Location
Va
Howdy,

OK, 1 phase 120/240 and a ground rod in the ground with ground wire attached for safety.

You are looking at the gauges only? Get a volt meter and see what the reading is on the power lugs. You might have some issues with the factory am/vm switch itself or wiring issues.

Start the unit
set throttle for a nice 61Hz, with the voltage to a good 120v
switch the interrupt closed
take readings with multi-meter between all lugs

Now, do you have 120v and 120v on each L1 and L3?

Age old issues which has been discussed here on the forums. The Meter selector switch has cob webs. A good electrical contact cleaner and moving the switch back and forth and all over a bunch, I mean a bunch of times, might be enough to have the meter working. You might also follow the wire leads and make sure they are attached, not loose, etc...
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
15,991
22,403
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
In the position that the S8 (voltage reconnection switch) is in the picture, you should have 120 volts Between L1 and N, and between L2 and N. Between L1 and L2 you should have 240 volts. Measure at the output terminals.

Worry about the meter later. First see if the output is right. On the data plate below S8, it tells you what position the S8 switch is in, and what voltage you should get at what terminal. If the output is right, then use S6, to check to see if you get the same voltages at the same S8 positions.

On on step at a time.
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks