MEP 803a governor question

[CallMeColt]

Definitely not normal. Looks like you're ground wire is missing and grounding elsewhere? The grey box looks out of place as well.

 

[2Pbfeet]

Hey @LuckeyD, thanks for all the pointers. I finally had a few minutes today to jump back into this mess.

So I followed your recommendations and found 12.1 ohms from terminal 5 to 6. From terminal 7 to 8 I had 1.1ohms. Then I went to TB3. All the combinations you listed were at 0.4-0.5 ohms. Is that close enough to 0? Also, when you say "while checking one set also measure that set from one wire to the other T winding sets for cross shorting in the main gen. These are the weaker points," I am assuming that means with one wire disconnected, check from that wire to the other combinations? If I am understanding that correctly, what I did was disconnect T1 and measure to T4. I got 0.4ohms. With the T1 still disconnected, I measured to T2, and T3. T2 was 0.4ohms. T3 was 5.6ohms. Am I doing that correctly, and why the jump in resistance from T1 to T3???

Also, nothing to note in the bottom of the generator aside from dust. No birds nest of wire, and no smell either.

What would you recommend now? I am planning to follow procedure 4-10.3 and see what that leads to.

Lastly, I was reading and checking @2Pbfeet's posts and noticed this on the back of the output lugs. Does this look normal?
View attachment 953543


Thanks!

I think that is the terminal eye for a what @CallMeColt called out. It looks like a missing ground for one of your EMI suppressors. (GND to neutral?) You might be able to scrape a little of the compound out of the way and resolder it. By the looks of it, it sheared when some one was really torqueing the nut.

I think that your ground wire (100E10) is heading up and to the left in your photo, but double check. If it is missing, it goes from there over to the negative terminal on the engine.

All the best, 2PbFeet

 

[LuckeyD]

Lets do one thing at a time. Picture; You show the back side of the ground terminal lug. See attached PDF page 173. Wire 100E is attached and goes to a starter mounting stud. The other thing is what's is left of a wire that was supposed to go to a white capacitor item 33 PN: 88-20530 in the parts manual. The cap goes from Neutral to ground terminal luge back side for transients that show up on the neutral when something starts or runs. I have them on the parts sheets and they were hard to get items. For utility purposes they are really not required and please ensure neither end touches anything.

Lets go to PDF page 214 attached. You successfully tested both the Static field and the quad windings at the regulator. IN the chart values attached. Great! Supercool! Then you disconnected one end of each T winding and successfully tested each phase winding about what is in the chart. Cross phase testing is no way correct. I must ask you remove all t windings from TB3. Make sure nothing touches any other T windings. Now again please test T1´T2, and t3. You should have an open circuit as they should not connect before the S8. Perhaps I was not specific enough. That's why I referenced the manual. If open circuits and check them all for cross shorts to each winding set, then we can goo on to the S8. Let me know what happens.

 

[Rellierell 803a]

The orange silicone is never a good sign, especially when it is way overdone like that one. That stuff gets into everything and jams things up.

I wish you would have told me that one 802 ago. Of the 8 I bought, the last one looked like his, orange gasket material everywhere. Whelp at least I learned to replace the water pump, thermostat and valve cover gaskets. Lol.

I refused to let it leave like that. Left better functioning than I got it.

So I agree with you, that's a tail tale sign. Thread lightly.