MEP-803A - New to me, excited to get it going.

[Ray70]

In addition to that data plate above, sometimes you may find a data plate from an engine rebuilder with the piston overbore, rod and main undersize engraved or stamped into the plate.
But most of the time if it's a Lister Petter data tag as shown above, those are usually standard sizes, unless noted otherwise.

 

[KD7CAO]

In addition to that data plate above, sometimes you may find a data plate from an engine rebuilder with the piston overbore, rod and main undersize engraved or stamped into the plate.
But most of the time if it's a Lister Petter data tag as shown above, those are usually standard sizes, unless noted otherwise.

I took a look and did not find a data plate on the engine itself as shown in the photos. There is one that I didn't see that showed up under the oil filter in a picture, I need to look at it more closely to see what it says. I am really tall, and I guess at the angle I was at, I couldn't see it till the corner appeared in a photo.

 

[2Pbfeet]

I took a look and did not find a data plate on the engine itself as shown in the photos. There is one that I didn't see that showed up under the oil filter in a picture, I need to look at it more closely to see what it says. I am really tall, and I guess at the angle I was at, I couldn't see it till the corner appeared in a photo.

Is your unit a Tier 1 or a Tier 2 reset?

The one under the oil filter is usually the National Security emissions exemption statement. Not having a remanufactured label suggests to me that whatever caused the unit to be sent for reset wasn't something significant to the engine, per the document that @kloppk posted above.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

P.S. @KD7CAO FWIW: I use my phone to get photos of items in awkward locations. Blind point and shoot in my hands usually takes a few iterations.

 

[KD7CAO]

Is your unit a Tier 1 or a Tier 2 reset?

The one under the oil filter is usually the National Security exemption statement. Not having a remanufactured label suggests to me that whatever caused the unit to be sent for reset wasn't something significant to the engine, per the document that @kloppk posted above.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

P.S. @KD7CAO FWIW: I use my phone to get photos of items in awkward locations. Blind point and shoot in my hands usually takes a few iterations.

Oh I do as well all the time. My Samsung has the pen and I can use the button on it as a remote shutter control.

It is Tier 2 and has reman/new engine 2.5 hours.

 

[2Pbfeet]

Oh I do as well all the time. My Samsung has the pen and I can use the button on it as a remote shutter control.

It is Tier 2 and has reman/new engine 2.5 hours.

That looks like a new engine was put in. Lucky you!

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[KD7CAO]

Just wanted to give you all an update, weather has been crazy here in North Texas and so I have not been able to work on it in the evenings after work. I am currently looking for a used trailer to put the generator on which will make it much more accessible to me than in the bed of the pickup.

I've got the manifolds off and started looking at the technical details for pulling the head. Looks like I need to get the water pump and alternator off next. I am starting to wonder who else has been in this engine, some of the bolts so far have not been torqued, very easy to remove.
Good for me but makes me question how far into this engine I will need to go.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Tier 2 always gets a remanufactured, at least per the TM spec.

 

[2Pbfeet]

Tier 2 always gets a remanufactured, at least per the TM spec.

I agree with you that they usually are remanufactured engines, but the document that @kloppk posted lists remanufactured or new.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[spotrep]

Just wanted to give you all an update, weather has been crazy here in North Texas and so I have not been able to work on it in the evenings after work. I am currently looking for a used trailer to put the generator on which will make it much more accessible to me than in the bed of the pickup. I've got the manifolds off and started looking at the technical details for pulling the head. Looks like I need to get the water pump and alternator off next. I am starting to wonder who else has been in this engine, some of the bolts so far have not been torqued, very easy to remove. Good for me but makes me question how far into this engine I will need to go.

My father will sell you his trailer! Its an MEP trailer, an M116A3 i think theyre named. We have the equipment to get it off your truck and onto the trailer too! He bought his unit on the trailer but now it lives on a concrete pad.

 

[KD7CAO]

Thanks but I picked up an old welding trailer on Friday, new tires and coupler today, and got the generator temporarily mounted on it. Thankfully my boss knew a guy that had a skid steer and just happened to be working next door to my house. Just had to drive it over due to a fence in the way.

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

 

[KD7CAO]

Went ahead and took the rest of the pushrods out tonight. I would say at least 5 are damaged. Have not done the glass roll yet to check the rest, four intake are majorly bent, one exhaust is very rusty.

Number 1 cylinder has heavy carbon deposits.

Exhaust manifold was caked inside.

I will get pictures tomorrow when there is day light.



Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

 

[KD7CAO]

Checking cylinders with my finger, they feel smooth. There is a little surface grit in number one that looks rusty, but it is on the surface only. The carbon on the pistons is thick, it does not come off with a simple shop towel.

What tool do you recommend for removing the spring keepers on those valves? The tool in the TM is $1800 new and I have not located a used one, surely there is a more economical version available though.

 

[Ray70]

I use a couple sifferent spring compressors, but with the head off the easiest thing is a "C" shaped one like this:



Which is less than $20 on Amazon or Harbor freight.

 

[Ray70]

These work too, but take a bit longer and are not quite as easy to use.

 

[2Pbfeet]

@KD7CAO that's an impressive amount of carbon in the manifold and an impressive amount of oily/greasy unburned diesel and carbon on the piston heads. I'd start with carb cleaner. If you use compressed air, try to have it going across the top of the piston head, rather than down to minimize dust getting between the piston and the cylinder wall.

While my favorite way to clean pistons is out of the block, if it is in the block, I like to have them TDC when cleaning, both for access, and to be better able to clean the piston ring area better when I'm done and give me a chance to wipe the cylinder wall clean as the piston goes down after cleaning everything. I like to fill the other cylinders with rags and cover the rest of the head with a towels to minimize debris going elsewhere when cleaning. YMMV.

All the best,

2Pbfeet