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MEP-803A - No Hz & No Voltage on Load Terminals

Waukesha

Member
77
31
18
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Hi – I’ve been lurking on the site for a few weeks now in anticipation of picking up an MEP-803A. Well I finally won an auction last week and picked up my gen set yesterday. This thing is in GREAT shape! Hardly a scratch. I got the inspection paperwork with it. The only thing it called for was new batteries.
Gen set Info:
2007 MEP-803A with 563 original hours. I installed two new Optima 34/78 batteries, checked the filters, added oil and fuel, she fired right up! Muffler has some carbon bits in it, so I know that I need to load test it for a few hours.
Problem:
1. I’m not registering any HZ on the instrument panel, AND
2. I’m not registering any voltage on the load terminals (despite having voltage at the convenience receptacles)
Steps taken to review the situation / problem solve:
· S8 switch = 120 volt 1ph
· AM-VM is set all the way to the right @ L3-N-1
· Test convenience receptacle with a 1500W space heater that I had laying around, it works great. Really heats up the space.
· I tried adjusting the engine speed controller (frequency controller) and although the engine speed changes as I expect, no change is registered on the instrument panel.
· I tested N to L3 (and every other lug) without any voltage registering. I also tested ground to L3, etc. without registering any voltage.
· I’ve read that sometimes holding the started for more than the second or two that it took to fire up the engine can help to excite the field. However I was reluctant to hold the start for longer than absolutely necessary after reading about the fried voltage regulators. My gen set does not have the 3 amp 250v fuse installed…. Really hopeful that isn’t the issue here.
Any help that you guys can provide is greatly appreciated.Hi – I’ve been lurking on the site for a few weeks now in anticipation of picking up an MEP-803A. Well I finally won an auction last week and picked up my gen set yesterday. This thing is in GREAT shape! Hardly a scratch. I got the inspection paperwork with it. The only thing it called for was new batteries.
Gen set Info:
2007 MEP-803A with 563 original hours. I installed two new Optima 34/78 batteries, checked the filters, added oil and fuel, she fired right up! Muffler has some carbon bits in it, so I know that I need to load test it for a few hours.
Problem:
1. I’m not registering any HZ on the instrument panel, AND
2. I’m not registering any voltage on the load terminals (despite having voltage at the convenience receptacles)
Steps taken to review the situation / problem solve:
· S8 switch = 120 volt 1ph
· AM-VM is set all the way to the right @ L3-N-1
· Test convenience receptacle with a 1500W space heater that I had laying around, it works great. Really heats up the space.
· I tried adjusting the engine speed controller (frequency controller) and although the engine speed changes as I expect, no change is registered on the instrument panel.
· I tested N to L3 (and every other lug) without any voltage registering. I also tested ground to L3, etc. without registering any voltage.
· I’ve read that sometimes holding the started for more than the second or two that it took to fire up the engine can help to excite the field. However I was reluctant to hold the start for longer than absolutely necessary after reading about the fried voltage regulators. My gen set does not have the 3 amp 250v fuse installed…. Really hopeful that isn’t the issue here.

Any help that you guys can provide is greatly appreciated.
 

Waukesha

Member
77
31
18
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Fixed the no load issue. Helps if you click the interrupter switch! I'm now registering 120V at the lugs based on the above setup.

I also diagnosed the no HZ I was having. The A7 is toast. The M2 registers fine when testing with the OHM setting on my amprobe. I can post pics of the circuit board of the A7 if you guys like? It appears to be serviceable. I'm switching to a digital HZ meter so I wont be digging into this issue further.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
15,994
22,416
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Yes sir, I will ask how MUCH, you read the -10 manual. But, will not rub it in. Someone, I cant remember his name, posted something here lately about reading the -10. But there is something, about learning by doing.

Why are you going to a digital readout? Unless its cheaper then getting another A-7, or trying to fix it yourself, why bother. Don't get me wrong. It looks great, but do you NEED such a precise reading? I do not have the slightest idea what the price difference is.

Take care and welcome to the show that never ends!

Please do get that Quad circuit MWO, done on your set. Its cheap, easy and you have one less thing to worry about.
 

csheath

Active member
713
196
43
Location
FL
I was also guilty of starting my 803 without reading the instructions well. I had read a lot of threads and even called myself reading the manual before I bought it but total brain fart set in when it got to my house. Like the OP it didn't take long before I realized you had to hold it to start until it had enough oil pressure to remain running and you had to hit the interrupt switch to get power to the output terminals. I felt really stupid when I realized the starting instructions were right there on the control panel lid. :oops:

NONE of my gauges worked either but I was able to use my multi-meter to verify everything was as it should be at the output lugs. After fooling around with it and getting the voltage and load gauges to work and seeing how far off they were I didn't even attempt to troubleshoot the hertz gauge. About $20 and a month of waiting for meters to arrive from across the pond and I was converted to digital meters and all has been good. Unless you are a purist and want the original gauges to remain I think digital is the way to go. It is just too cheap and easy and you can rely better on the readings provided.

I went semi sleazy on the fuse upgrade and put an automotive inline fuse holder on it and used a fast acting 3A fuse. I couldn't justify the cost of the fuses and holder specified and my unit is working fine with the fuse and holder I installed. I figured the fast acting fuse would also offer better protection than a slow blow.
 

TrailLifeBill

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
178
4
18
Location
Brunswick, GA
Welcome to the party!! I'm sure if you've been around any time at all, you are aware of the REQUIREMENT for acceptance into the group - that you POST PICTURES of your new genset!! :grin:
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
15,994
22,416
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
I was also guilty of starting my 803 without reading the instructions well. I had read a lot of threads and even called myself reading the manual before I bought it but total brain fart set in when it got to my house. Like the OP it didn't take long before I realized you had to hold it to start until it had enough oil pressure to remain running and you had to hit the interrupt switch to get power to the output terminals. I felt really stupid when I realized the starting instructions were right there on the control panel lid. :oops:

NONE of my gauges worked either but I was able to use my multi-meter to verify everything was as it should be at the output lugs. After fooling around with it and getting the voltage and load gauges to work and seeing how far off they were I didn't even attempt to troubleshoot the hertz gauge. About $20 and a month of waiting for meters to arrive from across the pond and I was converted to digital meters and all has been good. Unless you are a purist and want the original gauges to remain I think digital is the way to go. It is just too cheap and easy and you can rely better on the readings provided.

I went semi sleazy on the fuse upgrade and put an automotive inline fuse holder on it and used a fast acting 3A fuse. I couldn't justify the cost of the fuses and holder specified and my unit is working fine with the fuse and holder I installed. I figured the fast acting fuse would also offer better protection than a slow blow.
When the first warning came out from CECOM about that problem, that's exactly what they told us to do. Get automotive fuse holders. Heck, it worked just fine. Someone in CECOM had a brother selling the fuse holdes and stuff, I bet.
 

Dwnorton1

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
400
23
18
Location
Healdton Oklahoma/ SOOK
I do recall someone posting something about -10 manuals. Guilty of the same offense as far as wing and prayer without just reading OP manuals, at first. Now read them 3-4 times until I pick up whatever it is, then have it out and available as playing with new toy. :grin:
Wise men have sage advise, I have found, in particular the ones on this site.
 

Waukesha

Member
77
31
18
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Yes sir, I will ask how MUCH, you read the -10 manual. But, will not rub it in. Someone, I cant remember his name, posted something here lately about reading the -10. But there is something, about learning by doing.

Why are you going to a digital readout? Unless its cheaper then getting another A-7, or trying to fix it yourself, why bother. Don't get me wrong. It looks great, but do you NEED such a precise reading? I do not have the slightest idea what the price difference is.

Take care and welcome to the show that never ends!

Please do get that Quad circuit MWO, done on your set. Its cheap, easy and you have one less thing to worry about.
Thanks, Guy. Admittedly I skimmed through the startup procedure. I couldn't turn the engine by hand, and that had me nervous. After dead cranking it and seeing how easy it turned over, I got over excited. I'm sure you all can relate! :)

With regard to the gauge; I found this HZ gauge at Mouser http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...irtualkey58010000virtualkey580-DMR20-1-FM-R-C I couldn't locate a replacement A7 online, and I didn't think I was going to be able to for $40. I would actually prefer to keep the stock gauge, I prefer the analog look.

Welcome to the party!! I'm sure if you've been around any time at all, you are aware of the REQUIREMENT for acceptance into the group - that you POST PICTURES of your new genset!! :grin:
Picker her up in Northern Illinois, not too far from my house.

At Depot.jpgOn Trailer.jpgOn Trailer_2.jpgZIn the Drive Way.jpg
 

Waukesha

Member
77
31
18
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
MEP-803A - No Hz & No Voltage on Load Terminals

Why are you going to a digital readout? Unless its cheaper then getting another A-7, or trying to fix it yourself, why bother.

Please do get that Quad circuit MWO, done on your set. Its cheap, easy and you have one less thing to worry about.
In my internet searches, I couldn't locate any information on a replacement A7. I took the unit apart to see if anything looked obviously fried, and it didn't. I'll post pictures of the A7 guts in my other thread.

I found a clean looking HZ gauge at Mouser electronics for $40, and figured a replacement A7 would cost more than that. Happy if you can prove me wrong! Gauge is a Murata DMR20-1-FM-R-C. It's smaller than the stock gauge, however it's round and clean. I didn't like the square jobs from eBay/china.

I'm going to order to fuse / holder tonight and complete that mod before I fire it up again. Well worth the cheap insurance!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Waukesha

Member
77
31
18
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
MEP-803A - No Hz & No Voltage on Load Terminals

Welcome to the party!! I'm sure if you've been around any time at all, you are aware of the REQUIREMENT for acceptance into the group - that you POST PICTURES of your new genset!! :grin:
Of course! These are the only ones I have on my phone. I'll take a video of me load testing in a few weeks when I get the load bank put together.

I will be using this in a home backup setup. More details to come.

At Depot.jpgOn Trailer.jpgOn Trailer_2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
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