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MEP 803a Won't crank.....

Ifly2

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Deep South, AL
I've been reading these posts concerning non-cranking 803s but nothing is like my problem. Batteries are charged, I have power from S-1 term. 7.
It won't crank from the "Dead crank" either. The fuel pumps work as intended but "No Crank". I checked with the meter and get no voltage to the back side of the solenoid when trying to crank. I did find that the return fuel lines need replaced as they leak a bit. Diesel fuel stinks. This is my first 803, I've had no problems at all with two different 003a's. Anybody have any idea's?
 

Guyfang

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You need to find out why K-3 start relay is not energising. Has this gen set ever worked? Or did the problem just come out of nowhere?
 

Ifly2

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Location
Deep South, AL
803a..

You need to find out why K-3 start relay is not energising. Has this gen set ever worked? Or did the problem just come out of nowhere?
No history on this genny. I picked it up last week. It has had the engine rebuilt out in Oregon back in '11 and then pickled. The "K-2" start relay actuates and relays voltage but there still is no power at solenoid. I'm at a loss.
 

Guyfang

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Try this. Put the S-1 in the stop position. Push the reset button on the fault indicator and hold it in. Try and start it with the S-1 switch. Will it turn over?
 

Guyfang

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A lose connection will also do this. You get voltage to pass, but no amperage. Check the grounds also. But it sounds like something simple. Like the engine cut off, when the low fuel switch functioning. You do have fuel in it, right? And you can reach into the tank and move the fuel float switch to see if its stuck. IF you do not have arms the size of man mountain dean.
 

Guyfang

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What are canon plugs?
The connectors that get screwed into the control panel. All the wires run through them. Open up the bottom right side door and reach in, feel around and you will find them. If they are tight, and on right, unscrew them and take a look see at the plugs. See if they are damaged.
 

Ifly2

New member
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Location
Deep South, AL
Looking at the electrical schematic, it appears that the circuit goes directly from the cranking relay to the solenoid. I have power at the output side of the relay but not at the solenoid.
With the wiring harness so neatly tied up you cannot trace the wiring. I guess that they couldn't come up with enough colors to satisfy the "Brass".
 

Guyfang

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Also, take the top off and check that the K-2 IS working. Just because you hear it click, doesn't mean it is working right. Check that the 24 volt input is coming to the relay, and that the output is also correct.
 

Guyfang

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Looking at the electrical schematic, it appears that the circuit goes directly from the cranking relay to the solenoid. I have power at the output side of the relay but not at the solenoid.
With the wiring harness so neatly tied up you cannot trace the wiring. I guess that they couldn't come up with enough colors to satisfy the "Brass".
Each wire has a number. You can trace it to the canon plug, and then from the plug to the next terminis.
 

Guyfang

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The big one.
Here is the procedure to test the starter disconnect switch, K-16

TESTING
1. Shutdown generator set.
2. Release control panel by turning two fasteners and lower control panel slowly.
3. Set multimeter for VDC and connect positive lead of multimeter to terminal 1 of crank disconnect switch (WP
0020, Figure 1, Item 35). Connect negative lead of multimeter to any generator set ground.
4. Move MASTER SWITCH to either RUN position. Multimeter should indicate nearly 0 volts.
5. Start generator set and operate at rated frequency. Multimeter should indicate 23 to 28 VDC.
6. Replace crank disconnect switch (WP 0020, Figure 1, Item 35) if indications are other than above.
7. Raise and secure control panel.
 
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