MEP 803A won't stop cranking

[Hummingbird]

Got this generator last year from an auction and haven't had a lot of time to tinker with it. It is a 1999 machine with 1500 hrs on the gauge, no reset.

Last year I put new oil in it, oil filter, new batteries, and installed the fuse for the quad winding. Used the dead crank to turn the engine over, no problem.

This week I replaced the S1 Master Switch with a 75902LV purchased awhile back on ebay and added some water to the coolant system with intentions to flush.

While adding water it was pouring out of the front hub on the water pump, anyone have any experience with the ebay water pumps?

After this I decided to spin the engine, when I bumped the dead crank switch it began cranking and wouldn't stop until I disconnected the negative battery terminal.

I have some schematics printed and am currently studying. Any help would be much appreciated!

 

[Guyfang]

Got this generator last year from an auction and haven't had a lot of time to tinker with it. It is a 1999 machine with 1500 hrs on the gauge, no reset.

Last year I put new oil in it, oil filter, new batteries, and installed the fuse for the quad winding. Used the dead crank to turn the engine over, no problem.

This week I replaced the S1 Master Switch with a 75902LV purchased awhile back on ebay, (why did you change the switch?) and added some water to the coolant system with intentions to flush.

While adding water it was pouring out of the front hub, (Where from the hub? From a hole that has threads? If so, the plastic plug is missing. This plug allows you to drain the water out of the water pump, if you want to store it a long time and don't want the cold to freeze the pump and crack it.) on the water pump, anyone have any experience with the ebay water pumps?

After this I decided to spin the engine, when I bumped the dead crank switch it began cranking and wouldn't stop until I disconnected the negative battery terminal.

I have some schematics printed and am currently studying. Any help would be much appreciated!

When you place S10 in the off position, and hook the neg battery terminal back up to the battery, does it start cranking again? Or doesn't do any thing? The clue here, if you are giving us all the details, is that it worked right before you replaced the S1. Right? You turned the engine over with the S10, at least several times, right? So it would appear that the S10 is wired right, works right. Doesn't mean you should not check to see if the S10 functions, or that the wire are hooked up right. But I would only do it if nothing else works. So, lets assume, (something that will kick you in the butt often) that S10 works. Is there some reason you never used the S1 before? Or have you? In any case, I would check that the S1 is wired right, and that the diode is hooked up right. THEN we can go from there.

 

[Hummingbird]

Thanks Guy for the quick reply.

Yes the S1 worked before, changed it after reading on these forums about the superiority of the 75902LV.

I have just put the old working S1 back in and verified the S1 wiring correct. I still have 25V between the disconnected battery negative cable and battery negative terminal.

I have ohmed S10 and it is good, even removed it from the circuit and still have 25V.

Something is holding the start circuit closed and I’ve yet to find it.

 

[csheath]

Try tapping on the starter solenoid with a hammer.

 

[Hummingbird]

Try tapping on the starter solenoid with a hammer.

I tried that a few times and no change.

 

[Guyfang]

Wire number 114C, on the S10 goes to the K2 crank relay. Take it off and then hook up the battery cable to see if the engine continues to crank. If so, the K2 relay could be stuck closed. Or K2, X1 terminal is getting voltage through stuck contacts in K16. Have you by chance had the relays out in the control panel? Did you maybe get S14 stuck into K16's slot? Check K16.

 

[Hummingbird]

Thanks Guy

Well, I whacked on the starter solenoid a few more times and bingo the circuit opened.

I put the new S1 back in and no problem.

After dead cranking multiple times and attempting a start from S1 multiple times the circuit is closed again. I whacked the solenoid some more and still it is closed.

I swapped K15 and K16 just now for grins and no change.

Where is K2 located?

 

[csheath]

Sounds like a sticky starter drive. Pull the starter and spray the drive gear and shaft. Pay attention when you loosen the bolts and see if you hear the drive retract.

 

[Hummingbird]

Thanks CS, I’ll definitely give that a try.

 

[Guyfang]

I think the starter is the problem also. But if you want to check K2, remove the top of the control panel. k2 is behind the bulkhead. Simple way to check it is this. Remove the plastic cap on K2, so you can see the contacts. The start the set. Turn it off and see if it continues to crank. If so, look at the K2 contacts. If they are open, the problem is in the starter. Please keep in mind, that there are lots of opportunities for you and mister 24 VDC to get acquainted in there. So pay attention and do not be in a hurry.

If K2 is the new style, all metal relay, then just check at K2-X1 for voltage and also K2-A2 for voltage.

 

[Hummingbird]

Turns out it was the K2 relay. I appreciate all the help.

 

[Guyfang]

Thanks for the feed back! Too many people don't close the loop.

take care,

guy