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Those are grounding rods from a generator that I repurposed. The further down they go into the brine tank, the higher the load becomes. Also, as the brine temperature increases, so does the load. So it’s necessary to keep an eye on it for a short period of time, or the load can increase too far and bog down the generator. Simple yet effective. I can bring a 30kw to it’s knees with this same 40 gallon brine tank.Here’s how I put a load on my MEP-803A stand-by unit. It’s a simple brine tank. I leave it right next to where my generator sits. I just have to add water once in a while from evaporation. Never have to add salt, it doesn’t evaporate. I bought a 10’ length of 6 gauge cable with 3 conductors. I should have bought a cable with 4 conductors so I could load test in three phase. I use my hand held electrical measuring tools and compare those readings with the generator gauges.View attachment 889371View attachment 889372View attachment 889373View attachment 889374
I’m told that nitrogen is an off-gas of using this method to load test. But being that 80% of the air that we breathe is already nitrogen, and this brine tank is outside of my shop, I don’t see a risk. Also, this is considered to be low voltage. Any voltage greater than 500 is considered high voltage, at which point has the potential to arc through the air. I’ve done quite a bit of research on this, and yes I do have respect for electricity and it’s potential. I have put my volt meter on the 2x4 insulator between each conductor and found only millivolts present. I know that would change if the 2x4 was wet from rain. The generator and the brine tank are both under a lean-to cover that I built overhead.Looks like a copy of what we made. But cant be any kids or wildlife around.
Curious if I can crank the generator and just let it run for several hours here and there just to exercise it without any load or if I need to at least plug in a fan or something into the 110 plug for somewhere to send some power to.
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