MEP 805B slow to close breaker

[datagen24]

Hi, another question on my 805b my assumption is it is it slow to close,
i let the unit run for 5 mins no load, then go to close the output breaker, pushing the toggle to close and nothing happens for 3 - 5 mins
adjusting the frequency and/or voltages do not make a difference
holding the switch for any amount of time does not make a difference.

once it is closed i have no issues with operation.

I have looked through the TM's looking for a timing on the breaker close as well as a list of check's the CIM may make before closing the circuit, but have not found any.

The only thing i have not tried is running it with battle short

the question is normal or not?

Thanks

 

[Guyfang]

No, not even close to normal. The CB should close as soon as you push the switch.

 

[datagen24]

The question then is what to check to find out why it takes so long, some kind of logic check, bad switch?

 

[Guyfang]

There is no logic check, as far as I remember. Sounds like a loose wire, or loose cannon plug, bad switch. Please describe exactly how you get the CB to evently close. Do you repeatedly try and close the S-5, (AC interrupt switch)? Or does it just close by itself, at some point in time? To test S-5, you take a piece of wire, or even a needle nose plyers, and jump from pin 1, (+24 volts) to pin2, the wire that goes to K1, (load contactor, K1) you can test if the switch S-5 is the problem.

 

[datagen24]

if there is no logic check (IE freq good, volt in range) then basically it is just repeatedly trying the breaker close toggle switch (3 position on the control board)
UP to close, neutral , Down to Open
It will always open on first try, just not close

the reaction time varies, i can hold the switch up for a few seconds let it go and minute or so later it will close
that is the shortest time i have ever had it work
most of the time i hit it and nothing happens.
I would expect near instant reaction from my time in the MMR, (some big motor or vacuum driven breakers take a few seconds) but generally they just go.

 

[Guyfang]

The K1 contactor can be removed from the set easily, or you can apply voltage, directly at cannon plug, with the set off. There should be a small diagram on the side of K1 to show what two pins you need to jump. K1 was a part that would go bad from time to time. You sound like you are at least as good as me checking this sort of thing, so I don't need to tell you how to do it.

 

[datagen24]

Had some nice weather today went out and checked the toggle switch, it tests ok.
The K1 looks easy enough to get at, all the control leads are close to the case no easy way to get a meter in to them. with out taking it out of the set completely.

I have played with it now, and it appears to only have an issue closing, multiple tries and it will close.

all of the cable markings are missing, and all the wires are white so this makes tracing so much

 

[Guyfang]

The wires are marked. Tiny black wire numbers. Got to look hard for them, but they are there. Something is loose, or the contactor is binding. You got to see if you are getting voltage down to the contactor when you close the switch. That way you can say the problem is up top, or below the control panel. Use alligator clips to clamp on the wires, so you can test it and read it at the same time. Or get help. Several time I found that the contactor had water in it at some point in time and it caused rust. Made the contactor not close.

 

[glepaco]

Mep-805B when switch to 50hz, shown no voltage in both 208 voltage and 416 voltage

The wires are marked. Tiny black wire numbers. Got to look hard for them, but they are there. Something is loose, or the contactor is binding. You got to see if you are getting voltage down to the contactor when you close the switch. That way you can say the problem is up top, or below the control panel. Use alligator clips to clamp on the wires, so you can test it and read it at the same time. Or get help. Several time I found that the contactor had water in it at some point in time and it caused rust. Made the contactor not close.

Hello sir,

I just purchased an MEP-805B and at 60hz everything is working, but when I switch to 50hz it does not give any voltage. What could be the problem?

 

[datagen24]

I ended up pulling the contractor and found major arc damage on the left most contact load side.

Replaced the contractor plates and lubricated the selinoid. Now works pretty. Still slow to close when cold ( less than 70f ) but once it has cycled a few times it is fine.

Used 3 in one light oil with q-tip to lubricate. Probably should have used a dry lube.

 

[unclebeau]

You may want to start a new thread with your question (this thread is from the first of the year)

Hello sir,

I just purchased an MEP-805B and at 60hz everything is working, but when I switch to 50hz it does not give any voltage. What could be the problem?

 

[Guyfang]

I think that's a real good idea. You get more exposure.