I contacted several parts dealers on the internet today and received a price quote for the fault indicator panel. $844.00. That's correct-- eight hundred and forty four dollars for one circuit board with lights and test switch. I didn't expect to get ass raped!! After I sent an ugly message back I continued the search. I tried to contact the company that manufactures the part for the military - TRC (Technical Research Corp) in Clearwater Florida. Could not get connected to a live person, left several voice mail messages and got no call back. I sent several e-mail messages to them also with no luck. I called the operater and she kept connecting me to a recording to leave a message which I did. Talk about a circle jerk !!! The fault indicator module looks like $ 40 dollars would be a more than fair price to pay. I disassembled the one I have and it looks to be a sturdy, well built circuit board with a push button switch. The generator I have is the MEP-831A with 4 hours run time. I am assuming once again that the 4 hours is test run time and that everything was tested including the fault indicator lights/ reset button. I paid $700 for the generator and it looks like factory new. I thought that was a good price for a quality American Military generator. Starting to wonder about the parts game for these.....Any suggestions ???? Thanx in advance
I have a parts unit that I'm considering selling some stuff off once I have the main parts I need off of it. I may have a fault indicator I could part with. I won't know for a few weeks though. I'll want to make sure it is OK.
I tested the voltage to the fault indicator per the manual. No voltage - the manual states to replace the fault indicator if no voltage is found. Should be between 20-34 volts. I found one on e-bay for $70. It's on the way. I hope that will fix it. Question - Would there be any reason that someone would disable the fault indicator??? Also there is a plug on the right front of the generator that is labeled generator start. It is a multiple pin plug with each pin lettered a,b.c,d, etc. Is this a remote start plug or something else????
Does anyone know if the extra pin plug would cause problems for the fault indicator??? Seaching for answers - thanx
As for the no voltage condition, you may want to check that the pins in the Canon plug aren't corroded. Replacement pins are kinda cheap (<$1) pn#66361-4 and socket for the pin pn#66101-4 (anywhere from 50cents to $1) need to get the $15ish tool to extract them as molex pins are ever so slightly different. I had 3 pins and 1 socket go bad on my 831. As for the additional "generator start harness" it looks like the location and setup that SolarStik uses as can be seen on their website. I guess its a solar system with generator backup deal. Good luck on the relays being the culprit.
Make sure the relay all the way to the right K15 is a 120 volt AC relay.
Sometime they install 3 24 volt DC relays and the coil burns up on the K15 relay.
The other 2 are 24 volt DC relays.
The 3 kW 400 Hz units have 3 DC relays.
They look the same.
Some time when they are troubleshooting the sets they remove all the relays and then re-install them incorrectly and they misplace the DC relay into one of the other relay sockets, so check them all to see if you have a misplaced relay.
Very good info Dewey - THANK YOU. I ordered three DC relays because the manual only shows the DC ones. I will check this out. Thanks for helping. I think the pins are OK-not sure how to check them but everything looks pristine.
The light on the relay means that it is energized
So that means K15 is working.
Where did you check for voltage on the fault panel?
Pins 16 and 17 on the connector on the fault panel should be 24 volts into the fault panel when the start switch is on and there should be a low oil pressure light on.
I don't think the relays have anything to do with the fault panel issue.
The voltage for the fault panel comes from the start switch.
That's pin 6 and 7 not 16 and 17 on P4 on the fault panel. sorry
Pin 7 is 24 volts and pin 6 in ground.
When you put the start switch in the run position K 12 should be energized. (light on relay lit)
That is the fault relay it should be on because you have a low oil pressure fault because the set is not running, when you place the start switch to start the voltage to the fault panel is removed which allows the set to crank when there is no oil pressure.
The other 24 volt relay is K14 that is the aux fuel pump relay, when the fuel in the set tank is low and the aux fuel switch is on then the aux fuel pump will fill the set tank and shut off and de-energize the aux fuel relay K14.
The voltage to pin 7 comes from S1 terminal 3.
I'll bet there are things bypassed for that remote plug.
If you have or can get a wiring diagram I would remove al the wires to that remote plug and rewire the set back to original
Good idea- The extra plug wiring looks to be colored wires. I may try to disconnect all of them. Can you please look at your unit and tell me how many wires are grounded at the CP ground terminal.( terminal just to the right of the fault indicator). I have 3 wires grounded there.