MEP one cylinder smoking on start up

[Munchies]

I have a mep-002a that is very difficult cold starting. I have changed the glow plugs twice with NEW (champions first time, welman second time). The manifold heaters appear to be fine. I've checked the amperage and resistance on the GPs and heaters and they are in spec. It takes way too much cranking. It starts to fire on one cylinder almost immediately but will not come up to speed. Sometimes I have to crank it for two minutes before it will run on its own on one cylinder. Then it runs much too slowly on one cylinder for 20 or 30 seconds before the second cylinder comes on. Once the second cylinder fires, the thing runs great, makes all kind of power. I am totally frustrated that I can't identify the "cold" cylinder. I have pointed an inferred thermometer all around the exhaust ports, cylinder head and elsewhere and detect any temperature difference between the cylinder that fires and the one that doesn't. My problem kind of sounds like buck's one cylinder problem, only I have half as many cylinders. I wonder how he made out with the compression test?

Confirm you are getting full throttle arm movement. Holding throttle arm up 100% have a helper turn it over. Any help?
I would then check compression on both cylinders and compare.
If nothing shows up there then check injectors. Probably good, but might be physically sticking and only properly moving the pintle once the nozzle opens up in tolerances via heat or something.

 

[johnray13]

...I have a mep-002a that is very difficult cold starting. I am totally frustrated that I can't identify the "cold" cylinder. I have pointed an inferred thermometer all around the exhaust ports, cylinder head and elsewhere and detect any temperature difference between the cylinder that fires and the one that doesn't. ...

Remove the muffler and watch the two heads. The one with all the white smoke will be the bad one.
Oh, and don't do this when your neighbors may be sleeping...

 

[Ktighe]

I really appreciate all the help I'm getting on this site. Munchies suggestion appears to have helped me solve the problem. The linkage rod/fuel control was not going all the way up when the shut-off solenoid was activated. I tested this extensively by jumper wiring the solenoid to hold it up. The rod was interfering with the solenoid itself where it passed through the oval hole in the sheet metal shroud. I messed with the governor arm and the linkage rod for hours (shamefully bending, adjusting and cursing) and could never get it to pass through the oval hole cleanly, without binding. I am not proud, but my solution was to enlarge the oval hole with a carbide burr to make it so the rod could pass through without interference. Although it is 40 degrees Fahrenheit warmer today than when I last tested this, I am confident the problem is solved. It now fires on two cylinders right away, makes healthy looking black smoke and gets up to speed right away. It always ran great once started but it never belched black when starting before.
The shaft that the governor arm is attached to has a lot of lateral free play. It seems that may have contributed to the rod not playing nice in the seemingly too small oval hole. Does any one have any ideas as to why this was so difficult?

I am very grateful to Munchies for his insight and helpful suggestions.