Mep002a

[chester247]

please send me your email address

cheinlein01@comcast.net

 

[Speddmon]

Chet,
I sent you a PM and an e-mail

 

[mkcoen]

I'm going to restart this thread in the hopes someone can help me out. Yes I read the TM and yes I held the preheater for 1 minute and the engine fired right up. The problem is as soon as I let off the start switch it dies. This happens with the throttle out, the throttle in, moving the throttle in and out. I've checked the kill switch and it is in the proper position. I went through the wiring to see if something was amiss and actually found a seperated connector on the front glow plug but that wasn't the problem (although I did fix it).

This is my first generator so I know nothing about them other than what I've read here and in the TMs. I'm guessing something that keeps the engine running is screwed up but I just don't know where to look for the problem.

 

[mangus580]

I'm going to restart this thread in the hopes someone can help me out. Yes I read the TM and yes I held the preheater for 1 minute and the engine fired right up. The problem is as soon as I let off the start switch it dies. This happens with the throttle out, the throttle in, moving the throttle in and out. I've checked the kill switch and it is in the proper position. I went through the wiring to see if something was amiss and actually found a seperated connector on the front glow plug but that wasn't the problem (although I did fix it).

This is my first generator so I know nothing about them other than what I've read here and in the TMs. I'm guessing something that keeps the engine running is screwed up but I just don't know where to look for the problem.

There are 2 safety switches that will prevent it from continuing to run. One is Oil Pressure, one is Temperature. Locate the switches, and verify they are operating properly.

I had trouble with my oil pressure switch after an oil change... it was super cold that day, and I changed the oil cold (dumb mistake! as it took about 2 hours for it to drain, I swear!) I suspect my issue was an air bubble in the oil pressure line... which was cleared out once it was able to warm up.

 

[Speddmon]

Mangus is right, take a piece of wire and one at a time jump out (short the two terminals together) the switches and try to start it. Is it stays running then you have found your culprit. If not, move on the the next switch. Also, if you can, peek around and look at the stop solenoid plunger while you're starting it up. I beleive it is supposed to be puilled down when it' running. If this isn't happening, the solenoid could be bac, or just hanging up.

If I'm wrong about the solenoid, someone please correct me. I would hate to post inaccurate information for someone.

 

[Speddmon]

more info for ya...the oil pressure switch is located right beside the oil filter on the left. The high temp shutdown switch is located inside the louvers just under the muffler.

 

[319]

How long are you holding the start switch in the start position after it fires up? You're supposed to, according to the TM, hold the switch in the start position until it fires continously.

 

[mkcoen]

Mangus - Thanks, I knew about the oil pressure safety and did try jumping it but did not know about the temp safety. Oil pressure was steady at 30psi while gen was running (holding the start switch)

Speddmon - seloniod was moving position between when it was running and when it died.

319 - I was holding the start switch until the engine seemed to be running steady but no longer than 15 sec per TM. As soon as I let it go back to Prime/Run it would die. It seemed to be running good at a decent rpm and sounded smooth. That's what has me stumped. On the positive side I know that it will fire up it's just a matter of keeping the fire burning.

I'll try cleaning the contact points on the temp safety as when I looked at it there appears to be a little bit of corrosion. I probably won't get to try it again until Sunday or Monday.

Thanks for the help guys. I'm sure it's something minor and stupid that I'm just not catching.

Mark

 

[Earth]

Not to steer the thread away from its intended purpose, but does any one know wher to get the fuel strainer element for these gen sets? The TM and this site list the part # as 35070, Fram #C1824. NAPA can't seem to find anything that crosses with these numbers. Autozone didn't either. Thanks

 

[Speddmon]

Not to steer the thread away from its intended purpose, but does any one know wher to get the fuel strainer element for these gen sets? The TM and this site list the part # as 35070, Fram #C1824. NAPA can't seem to find anything that crosses with these numbers. Autozone didn't either. Thanks

I had a post about this a little while ago, I managed to track down the supplier for the military and get some pricing information for the strainer. Purolator is the only company still making this item. I managed to track down their military sales office and talked to them about it.

The company is called

Gigli Enterprises / The Divers Den
Contact T.J. Larson
1-800-272-4777

The part number is 1752002-01. He gave me a price of $73.98, this is a price for one. Obviously, you could get a volume discount; but I don't know of too many people needing this item.

The way they are designed and made you can take them apart and clean them up. Unless it's totally trashed and has to be replaced. Even if that's the case I've heard of several people replacing all 3 cans with a set-up of 2 spin-on filter bases and some other fuel filters. But I would have no idea about what parts or filter numbers they are.

 

[originalboxcar]

Hi all,

I'm a newbie here and just acquired 2 - 002a's, 1 with the ASK for running and 1 as a parts supply donor (if needed). It appears that both sets were drained of oil and fuel so my first steps are to top everything off and install batteries. I do have the TM printed out but I have a couple questions.

1. It appears that most stock filters are still available in some form (some with mods). Would it be wise to switch over to a more availabe "modern" filter/filter base setup as some folks have done? If switching over, is it necessary to have 2 fuel filters and 1 sediment filter as its original state? Any particular brand model filter/base combo?

2. My battery jumper was not with either unit. Are there certain specs I should adhere to in making a new jumper? Gauge, etc...

3. Speaking of batteries, how do you connect two 12V batteries?

4. What is the civvy to MIL SPEC equivalant for the proper oil? I use amsoil 15-40 diesel in my car, would amsoil suffice and what viscosity?

My apologies for stupid questions, please forgive my newbness!

Thanks in advance,

t~

 

[Speddmon]

Hi all,

I'm a newbie here and just acquired 2 - 002a's, 1 with the ASK for running and 1 as a parts supply donor (if needed). It appears that both sets were drained of oil and fuel so my first steps are to top everything off and install batteries. I do have the TM printed out but I have a couple questions.

1. It appears that most stock filters are still available in some form (some with mods). Would it be wise to switch over to a more availabe "modern" filter/filter base setup as some folks have done? If switching over, is it necessary to have 2 fuel filters and 1 sediment filter as its original state? Any particular brand model filter/base combo?

2. My battery jumper was not with either unit. Are there certain specs I should adhere to in making a new jumper? Gauge, etc...

3. Speaking of batteries, how do you connect two 12V batteries?

4. What is the civvy to MIL SPEC equivalant for the proper oil? I use amsoil 15-40 diesel in my car, would amsoil suffice and what viscosity?

My apologies for stupid questions, please forgive my newbness!

Thanks in advance,

t~

1. If you do change fuel filters you do not really need to have two filters and one sediment bowl like the original, but I would recommend a good water separator filter and maybe a second, finer fuel filter. The mil did it this way to make sure you have good DRY CLEAN fuel going into the engine. If you want to get long dependable life from these units the first and easiest place to start is with the fuel.

2. nothing special here, just don't use a wire that is any smaller in size (AWG...gauge) than the others going to the starter.

3. you want to connect the batteries in series. meaning going from the negative terminal of one battery to the positive terminal of the next battery. Then you will have one positive and one negative terminal left with 24 volts between them to connect to the starter.

4. Oil, use any good 15w-40 diesel oil that you prefer. A lot of people use Rotella, but I use the Tractor Supply brand. Been using it in my tractor, and have it in both generators and haven't had any issues with it yet. The biggest thing is changing the oil before it really really has to be changed....A better brand you could let it go a bit longer I think, but the cheap stuff I change out a little more frequently.

You'll probably hear this a lot from some of the more snotty posters, but, reading the manual really is a great way to learn about these sets. I personally do not have a problem giving advice to anybody with a question, but some people get really pissy about questions that can be found just by reading the manual.

While they are empty of oil, take the time and change the oil filters before you fire them up. Clean oil and filters are very very important, I'm sure you know.

Good luck and post some pictures for us to drool over. WE LIKE PICTURES!!!

 

[originalboxcar]

Awesome SpeddMon. I really appreciate the time taken to provide that information.

Looks like TSC carries the Fram CH6PL oil filters. I'm gonna look at Jeepin's option (see below). Any suggestions for the the 2nd fuel filter model/type?

I removed the three Fram cans, fabbed an angle bracket and added a Wix 33123
with a WIX 24309 base. You will also need 1/2 to 1/4 NPT bushings to re-use the stock AN 90degree hose elbows with that base.

I'll "read the !$%^@#$ manual for operation!

Thx again!

t~

 

[Speddmon]

They are not complicated to use. Just read the manual and a lot of it will clear up...remember that these manuals were written for 18 and 19 year old kids fresh off the farm. They are pretty simple to understand. Any further questions feel free to ask.

Use the search feature of the website also, there are a lot of informative posts out there about starting and running the 002 and 003a's. All I have to say is read, read, read!!!

 

[originalboxcar]

OK, after reading some posts on filters and doing some xref online, I came up with the following WIX numbers which I've ordered to convert (ie modernize) my fuel filtration

Filter Base 24770
Fuel Filter 33244
Filter Base 24309
Fuel Filter 33418
Oil Filter 51004
Air Filter 42222

I also went with the following OIL since I already order amsoil for my turbo diesel

AMSOIL - AMEQT-EA SAE 15W-40 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil

Next are batteries. Both gensets didn't come with the TOP hold downs, any issues with bungees and the vibration?

thx,

t~

 

[Speddmon]

My 003's are pretty stable, If you have a good bungee or even a marine battery box you should be fine. You'll need an o-ring to go along with that oil filter. The one that comes with it is not the correct one to seal the can.

I use the NAPA 5108 (Wix 1510 o-ring gasket on my oil filter and it fits really good. I would imagine that the same one would fit the 002a as well. The smaller one for the filter bolt you can use, but you do need a separate ring for the can. Don't let them BS you, you can buy just the ring or you can buy (or have them take the ring from, and then discard the filter) a 51161 filter and use the ring...that's the filter that comes with the 15108 ring. For NAPA filters and numbers just drop the first number from the Wix number.

Don't waste your money on the military batteries. Go to an interstate dealer and get a couple of their 800 CCA batteries. I bought mine for like $89 each.

 

[mangus580]

civvy battery can be obtained at Walmart and other sources... its a group 51R I beleive... from some honda cars.

 

[originalboxcar]

...
I use the NAPA 5108 (Wix 1510 o-ring gasket on my oil filter and it fits really good. I would imagine that the same one would fit the 002a as well. The smaller one for the filter bolt you can use, but you do need a separate ring for the can. Don't let them BS you, you can buy just the ring or you can buy (or have them take the ring from, and then discard the filter) a 51161 filter and use the ring...that's the filter that comes with the 15108 ring. For NAPA filters and numbers just drop the first number from the Wix number.

Don't waste your money on the military batteries. Go to an interstate dealer and get a couple of their 800 CCA batteries. I bought mine for like $89 each.

Got it, thx!

Just ordered several of the 15108 gaskets. I should be set for many years to come now with filtration.

t~

 

[originalboxcar]

OK. I've got all my filters (with plenty of spares) and the next step is getting the batteries. Before I buy 2 12v batteries I have a question. I've google'd for this but did not find an adequate answer. Is there a direct 12v replacement for the 24v starter for the MEP-002a to convert it to a 12v (1 battery) system or is it not that easy? I don't have any issues with getting 2 batteries, but thought I would ask first.

thx.

t~

 

[319]

I'd keep it 24V until you have problems with it. Keep the batteries maintained and you should be trouble free for years. Maybe install a Solargizer.