• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

MEP003A Starts, but then stops either when starter released or after about 20 minutes running

SteveH

Member
78
4
8
Location
Connecticut
Hi,

It's a long time since I've been on the forum, but am posting as having a minor emergency (power outage, and generator won't run). Apologies if the answer is already in the forums, but not had time to search. Hoping to get some ideas so I can get this running before dark....

My MEP003a is starting great, and generates power, seems to hold RPM and frequency (60hz). Oil pressure looks good on the gauge - but won't stay running.

However, it will either start, and run for about 20 minutes, and then just suddenly stop, or it will start, and run (and generate) as long as I hold the switch in the 'start' position - but stops the moment I release.

This appears to be independent of the PLC I have connected (behavior is the same whether I control from the panel or PLC)

It almost seems like a temperature issue...except the generator doesn't seem to be that hot.

I'm also wondering if it's somehow related to the governer solen
 

rickf

Well-known member
3,015
1,295
113
Location
Pemberton, N.J.
Sounds like an oil pressure safety switch to me. Verify you are full of oil and actually have oil pressure and if both of those are good then bypass the safety switch and see if the problem goes away. I had a switch go bad on mine.
 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,573
5,097
113
Location
MA
Similar topic just the other day... take the oil pressure switch out of the equation and tell me if it runs

 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,573
5,097
113
Location
MA
Lower left of the oil filter canister. Has (2) wires to it. Take the wires off, hook them together, try to start.

Edit: Thats the LOP switch. The temp switch is behind the shutter assembly.
 

rickf

Well-known member
3,015
1,295
113
Location
Pemberton, N.J.
You say it is closing, how do you know? It sounds like an intermittent problem to me. Bypass it and if it does not shut down again you found your problem. As far as the temp switch are there any critter nests built inside the shrouds? You can bypass that one too be you have no gauge like you do for the oil pressure. I would bypass the oil pressure switch first and if you still have the problem then look at the temp sender.
 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,573
5,097
113
Location
MA
Yeah flip up the cover above the IP and make sure there are no nests (same as behind the shutters). Goddamn mice will nest and ruin anything, given half a chance.
 

SteveH

Member
78
4
8
Location
Connecticut
Yeah flip up the cover above the IP and make sure there are no nests (same as behind the shutters). Goddamn mice will nest and ruin anything, given half a chance.
I have a acoustic sound kit on the unit - not sure i can open that without removing it, but will check. I know mice have been in there...

Generator ran for about an hour with the oil pressure switch bypassed, then just quit again...

Going out to check
 

rickf

Well-known member
3,015
1,295
113
Location
Pemberton, N.J.
Drain your filters and see if any water comes out. If it does that could be a suspect. Also loose fuel hoses on the suction side of the pump pulling air. If it just flat out shuts off with no stumbling that sounds like a safety. Or a loose on/off switch wire.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,366
5,052
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
Nice when the neighbors are dark and you have every light and the AC cranking away whilst a wisp of diesel smell in the air!
OP, did you check the temp switch yet? Even with the ASK on it, just get your hand in there and unscrew the plug from the outside of the shutter box, stick a jumper in there ( be sure to jump the 2 live pins, it's a 3 pin connector with only 2 wires in it ) and try it again. Use an IR thermometer to keep an eye on the temp.
Also, be sure your air shutters are opening. If they are staying shut your machine might be shutting down for all the right reasons!
 

SteveH

Member
78
4
8
Location
Connecticut
Nice when the neighbors are dark and you have every light and the AC cranking away whilst a wisp of diesel smell in the air!
OP, did you check the temp switch yet? Even with the ASK on it, just get your hand in there and unscrew the plug from the outside of the shutter box, stick a jumper in there ( be sure to jump the 2 live pins, it's a 3 pin connector with only 2 wires in it ) and try it again. Use an IR thermometer to keep an eye on the temp.
Also, be sure your air shutters are opening. If they are staying shut your machine might be shutting down for all the right reasons!
Thanks to everyone for all the help. Problem definitely seems to be related to the temperature switch. If I jumper TB5-8 to TB5-9 it runs ok, but if I just short out the oil pressure sensor it doesn't. Also, it seems to run longer each time before it quits (perhaps because the ambient air temperature is going down now)

Unfortunately, I cannot easily check the shutters - I have the ASK on, but also a home made ducting that sends the hot air to the outside; all bolted together. Pulling that to pieces is going to be a day time job (I'm not sure - there may still be photos I posted years ago when I built this). As heath-robinson as it looks, it didn't overheat before....

I'm now trying to decide whether to leaving it running overnight with the jumper in bypassing temperature and Oil Pressure switches. I don't want to risk damaging the unit if I have a real overheating issue. Given that I know mice are a problem in the shed where I keep the generator I think it's pretty likely they've blocked something up......

I do have an IR thermometer. While the unit is running the following are the temperatures I'm seeing:

Oil Filter - 170 'F
Side of Block, near Injection Pump - about 220'F
Top of head - about 210'F
'engine' side of the shutter box (outside - near where the cable connects) around 190-200'F
Duct temperature (where the air leaves the shutter box, then exits my generator shed) - around 150'F

Does anyone know how 'normal' these temperatures are?

Update: Running with the temperature/oil sensors bypassed, running well - and a lot cooler this morning (top of head around 140'F). I wonder if it's the colder air, or if something has been blown out of the cooling system.

However, I've got another serious problem - the DC regulator seems to have failed. Volts at the Voltmeter are 33v (which I believe is the unregulated voltage), and there was some arcing near the batteries. I've turned it off.... (it was definitely good yesterday...guess I blew it sometime during all the stops and starts)

Obviously, it looks like I need a regulator - but does anyone know if there is a safe way to run it at the moment?

Also (and here's where I'm hoping for a miracle!) - anyone know anywhere in the Western CT area where I can get a regulator? (Green mountain are a possible, but about 3 hours away). My Honda EU2000 (which I use as an Emergency Emergency backup has also failed - and I need to get power back to my aquariums....

-Steve


-Steve
 
Last edited:

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,573
5,097
113
Location
MA
I would not run it in that condition. I have never IR temped one of these, so unfortunately I have little to add there. Unfortunately I dont have a spare VR for an 00x here in MA. I will text @Ray70 to see if he has anything he can offer (based in RI).
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks