MEP803A 208V Wiring

[tktsales]

Hi Guys, I recently purchased a nice 803A with 8 hours on it. A new set of batteries and some fuel and it fired right up like new. Seems to operate as intended. Still in process of installation and it has not seen a load yet. I am using primarily for backup power on the 240/120V 1ph setting but I an running a 208V 3ph outlet in my shop for occasional usage. This 208v circuit will be dedicated to that single outlet and NOT run through the transfer switch. My questions is there are 4 settings on the selector switch for 3 ph operation. L1/L2, L2/L3, L1/L3 and L3/N. I am not master electrician but I believe I need all 3 phases and the neutral so what is the correct setting on this selector for 208 3ph operation as I intend to use. Thank you for all input Ted

 

[cuad4u]

All this switch does is select which one of the 3 legs of the 3 phase output that the ammeter and volt meter read. It has nothing to do with the 3 phase power output.

 

[M35A2-AZ]

There is a switch inside the panel that changes from 3ph to 1 phase, that will need to be changed.

 

[tktsales]

Thanks, I guess I need to look a bit closer. I will check tonight when I get home.. Thank you

 

[kloppk]

The switch to the left of the voltage regulator.
Should look like this (my 802)

 

[tktsales]

Hi guys, Thanks to all who replied. Clear as day now. I never even looked behind the main panel. Even without my glasses I could see that.. So what is the honest purpose of that switch on the face of the panel just so you can try and balance loads on the different legs?

 

[kloppk]

Here is the table from the TM that shows what the load meter and voltmeter read depending on the position of the AM-VM switch and the voltage reconnect switch.

(Click on the image to expand it)

 

[tktsales]

I understand what it should be reading at different selections just seems like allot of hardware for no real purpose. Why would someone need to check voltage or amperage from different legs on a 3 ph circuit, if there is really a problem any electrician is going to put a known accurate meter on it anyway. Its nice to have the volt meter and the load meter just seems overkill to me, I guess that is the way of everything in these sets. I assume that I can switch this VM-AM switch under load is that correct? I know not to touch the voltage selector under load.

 

[Daybreak]

I understand what it should be reading at different selections just seems like allot of hardware for no real purpose. Why would someone need to check voltage or amperage from different legs on a 3 ph circuit, if there is really a problem any electrician is going to put a known accurate meter on it anyway. Its nice to have the volt meter and the load meter just seems overkill to me, I guess that is the way of everything in these sets. I assume that I can switch this VM-AM switch under load is that correct? I know not to touch the voltage selector under load.

Howdy,
Your in the field, in the middle of no where, you need to run this generator to stay safe. You need it to run and just work. The Military generators are overbuilt. When a military generator says its a 10kw generator, that is a full 10kw 24/7 and shut down, change oil, and then fire it back up. The front panel meter is just that. A selectable meter to see what voltage is showing for each leg. Any generator does better being balanced. that holds true for 3 phase or single phase. So even with the full panel, a clamp meter showing what the draw is on each leg comes in handy to assist in balancing your load.

Say you have the generator set to single phase 120/240. There are a few things you want from electricity. You want it at 60Hz, and 240 volts. Nice and steady. You move the throttle until you get it at 60Hz, and then you turn the voltage potentiometer to fine tune the voltage.

 

[kloppk]

... I assume that I can switch this VM-AM switch under load is that correct? I know not to touch the voltage selector under load.

Correct on both accounts