Merc1973's First Deuce Build Thread

Merc1973

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I suppose this is where i post all the stuff I do to my truck. First of all, this is going to be my first MV, and it seems i was bitten by the Green Iron Bug. Other people really just don't understand it, except you guys... It is also similar to BRD (Black rifle disease) in which i am terminally ill, other ARFCOM members are already aware. smiley_abused.gif

This weekend (12/7/13) I will be recovering my 1970 M35a2 WO/W, LD-465-1c (with added D-turbo), air shift TC, hard top, troop seats, cab heater, manifold heater from Coleman's Surplus in Millerburg, PA. I got a heck of a deal on it! It seems it was last serviced/overhauled at Letterkenny Depot based on a tag and repainted CARC in 1989, but i will submit my info to CARNAC's VIN info thread.

8_12 001.jpg8_12 004.jpg8_12 002.jpg

The TM's have kept me busy, I just learned how to use the 3-way light switch from them :roll:. I have read many recovery threads on what to expect. At least I know it starts, drives (i was in low gear only <newbie>) and stops well from my test drive 2 weeks ago. I plan on bringing tools, 1 gallon of Lucas Oil to top off anything that is low, Dot 5 brake fluid, brake cleaner, PB blaster, jumper cables, tow straps, light bulbs, Maryland transit plates, winter coveralls, tire chocks, tire pressure gauge (I wish i had a glad-hand air hose to fill them just in case). I also plan on changing out the primary fuel filter and maybe the secondary before the 100 mile trip to Hagerstown, MD. From my previous experience as a Benz tech i will fill the primary filter canister with ATF upon installation to clean the injectors. Anyone else do this? I appreciate all input.
 
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Merc1973

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I was thinking about changing the oil prior to the 100 mi trip home. The dipstick showed it was full, however black as normal diesel oil but it was pretty thick-viscous. Should I change it?
 

TMNT

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I was thinking about changing the oil prior to the 100 mi trip home. The dipstick showed it was full, however black as normal diesel oil but it was pretty thick-viscous. Should I change it?
Congratulations. It looks like a good truck. If the type and age of the oil isn't known, new filters and fresh oil would be a good idea.

Look in the fuel tank too and see if it's clean. Having a bunch of junk in the fuel is a common issue with trucks that have say for a while.

Check the belts, diff, trans, and TC lube levels, inspect the wheels and hubs for leaks, and test the brakes before getting on the road. If you have any worries with the brakes, fix it before you roll.
 

Merc1973

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Thanks! I just might change it there. I also plan on bringing a couple extra belts and lube gun for the chassis and suspension lubrication points. Are they standard Zerk fittings?
 

Merc1973

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How do you feel about our a small amount of air brake antifreeze in the air compressor intake just to get all moisture out of the lines. It's going to be anywhere from 22 and 37 degrees outside this weekend.
 

Merc1973

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The recovery was a success! My father in law and I arrived early Saturday morning. The deuce started up in 4 seconds with a cool 25 degree chill in the air. I proceeded to check it over for any leaks, fluid levels in crankcase and transfercase. The transmission yielded some frothy brown fluid similar to Heath's youtube video. I replaced the primary fuel filter twice since the first time i was unable to seat the canister seal properly and fuel poured out with the in-tank pump running. Luckily the NAPA filter seal was a perfect fit. After bleeding the secondary/final bleeder screw, she fired right up in 1 only second.

While changing the filter in Coleman's lot, SS member DAKOTAFEAR3088 walked up out of nowhere, offered some help and many pointers. He was extremely helpful and represented the MV community beyond my expectations. Hopefully he and I can meet up again with our trucks. :beer:


The 100 mile trip went slow and steady with 2200 rpm @ 50 mph. The truck drove very easily and straight. Only a slight wheel hop at certain speeds from a bad front shock was noticeable. The shift out of 1st to 2nd is a royal PITA and sticks, hopefully with a fluid change and some Lucas oil it will smooth out. Everything was functional except the Temperature gauge and Air cleaner indicator. The D-turbo actually does have a slight whistle which sounded nice upon acceleration/deceleration.

I-81 south.jpg



Home.

home2.jpghome.jpg

Total mileage on the truck: 16,102 miles and 536 hours
 
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Merc1973

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While chatting with DAKOTAFEAR3088, told me that Coleman's is scrapping trucks left and right, If you need parts or parts trucks go there ASAP. Save them from the bulldozer and scrapping machine while you can before their history is wiped out. :sad:

deuce graveyard3.jpgdeuce graveyard2.jpgdeuce graveyard.jpg
 

Merc1973

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Hopefully in the coming weeks I will have time to work on the Deuce.

First up is oil change and next is transmission and TC fluid changes with non detergent 40 wt motor oil. There seems to be a leak in the transmission up near the shifter boot. Is this common? Do i need to buy a new boot or will It need a new gasket for the top half of the transmission? Is it easier to flush the "Chocolate milkshake" in the transmission out with the top half removed?
 

Merc1973

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My Deuce came with the Maintenance log book under the seat.


IMAG0639_zps5f98f43a.jpgIMAG0640_zps78359bc4.jpgIMAG0641_zps1d97fba1.jpg


There was also a map of a trip and the load it carried (Concertina wire , poles, netting):

IMAG0642_zpsd716df4e.jpgIMAG0643_zpsafd219b6.jpg
 
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MWMULES

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What are you putting ND40W in? Most folks use Rottela in the motor15W40 and GL1 80W-90 in tranny,transfer and diff's . But I now see where some may use 40W in the trans but I don't.
 
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Merc1973

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Other info:
Vin: 4M3865022525638

Registration?: 4M3865

NSN: 2320000771616

Bumperettes: HQ60 and 2821121

Frame Serial (stamped above one another): 2227931 and 1Q8720Q4


Contract # (on engine tag since the in-cab data plate contract was empty): DAAE0770C1220


engine tag.jpgengine tag2.jpg



Purchased in Millersburg, PA from Coleman's Surplus who purchased from GL. They just sent in the SF-97 and the title stated AZ was origin. I know the truck was part of the National Guard in PA, maybe Lewistown Armory?

Engine Rebuilt by CSMS East A&D as printed on top of the engine.
Also MWO applied tag (11-21-89) from Letterkenny on driver's door frame.
 

olly hondro

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When I changed the oil for the first time in the 1966 M109A3, I put a 5 gallon pail under the drain plug then pulled the plug. Thats how I learned that the crankcase holds 6 gallons.....oooops.
 

MWMULES

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Other info:
Vin: 4M3865022525638

Registration?: 4M3865

NSN: 2320000771616

Bumperettes: HQ60 and 2821121

Frame Serial (stamped above one another): 2227931 and 1Q8720Q4


Contract # (on engine tag since the in-cab data plate contract was empty): DAAE0770C1220


View attachment 473945View attachment 473946



Purchased in Millersburg, PA from Coleman's Surplus who purchased from GL. They just sent in the SF-97 and the title stated AZ was origin. I know the truck was part of the National Guard in PA, maybe Lewistown Armory?

Engine Rebuilt by CSMS East A&D as printed on top of the engine.
Also MWO applied tag (11-21-89) from Letterkenny on driver's door frame.
Yep the papers in the log book state, HHC 2-211 inf =Headquarters Headquarters Company, 2 second battalion, 211 211th, INF infantry and their armory is in Lewistown PA. Title has AZ as origin as GL headquarters is in Phoenix, Gov sold it to them, they sold it to Coleman's. There should be spaces between the #'s on your bumpers Pass side 28 2-112 not sure about the 1 on the end should be an I for infantry. 28 is the Inf division that the battalion belongs to, the 28th is call the Keystone Division in WWII was also called "bucket of blood or bloody bucket" mainly made up of units from PA.

I am pretty sure 2227931 and 1Q8720Q4 these are the part numbers for the frame and not the Vin, Vin should be on frame drivers side about 1/2" tall just forward of the front handle mount, may have to sand to find them, they should also match the serial # on data plate on the right side of dashboard.
Got pictures of Dash data plate or bumpers?
 
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Merc1973

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WOW, MWMULES, great information... Thank you very much!

Sorry that last post was mostly cut and paste from my submission to CARNAC's VIN thread since he doesn't want dashes.

IMAG0634.jpgIMAG0631.jpg

These are on the front driver's side next to the sling handle.
IMAG0563.jpg

In cab data plate:
8_12 003.jpg
 

Merc1973

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More history about my deuce:

Health Bulletin.

IMAG0644.jpg
Live fire practice.
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More Vehicle load cards.

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Rules of engagement.

IMAG0648.jpg

And strangely enough a maintenance form for an M1097
 

MWMULES

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WOW, MWMULES, great information... Thank you very much!

Sorry that last post was mostly cut and paste from my submission to CARNAC's VIN thread since he doesn't want dashes.



These are on the front driver's side next to the sling handle.
View attachment 474026

In cab data plate:
View attachment 474029
Yep those are the frame part numbers. Vin is in front of the sling handle and just under an aft of the angled reinforcement for the steering box. You may have to sand or use paint stripper to find them, they are usually not a deeply stamped as the part numbers.
 
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