metallic like creak

[Hasdrubal]

Not sure what it is. Seems to be from R front end, happens at slow speed when turning wheel, seems rotational. Not happening in straight line. While inspecting, noticed there is a new leak from the axle seal. First I thought ball joints, but its sounds rotational, bearing? seal ? Axle u-joint is regularly lubed.

 

[cucvrus]

You can lube it but that does not mean the grease is getting to all 4 trunions of the U joint. I would tale the hubs apart and visibly inspect the axle joints for freedom of movement. Also inspect the frame where the steering box is mounted on the frame may be cracked or a bolt loose or broken. Good Luck. Report back on your findings.

 

[Hasdrubal]

Didn't drive it today. Going to tear it apart in the next few days. When I say lube, I mean all 4 trunnion seals purge until fresh grease comes out. Takes a bit of pumping and lots of grease to clean up. but pays off in longevity, especially on drive shaft u-joints. This truck still has the original ball joints, so might replace them too. Since I'll be changing the axle seal, I'm wondering about the parts behind the spindle, there's the bearing which I might replace anyways if its original, 2 seals which I'll change. Anything else that should be changed on a 200,000 mile truck? Of course hub bearings will be inspected and replaced if needed.

 

[Chaski]

1009 or one of the others? Might be time to check out the kingpins if it isn’t a 1009

 

[Hasdrubal]

" has the original ball joints" - hence a M1009. Must be the heat here coupled with the long hours and commute but it seems I've overlooked a fairly simple explanation for the sound. Brake pad starting to squeal. Been looking for my hub tool, cant find it. Looked thru my bills from 2011. I originally bought a W83010 then 4 days later looks like I exchanged it for a W1269. Can anyone confirm this is the correct tool. may have to buy another one.

 

[cucvrus]

I don't know the correct part number for the tool. But if you are in a pinch just use a brass drift punch and get if done. You can achieve the same results without every special tool they make in a lot of cases. I do have the correct socket along with 50 other ones I bought and used once or twice. Getting older I learned to improvise , adapt , and over come the tool man every week. Saved a lot of money also. I would say go after it with the punch and call it a day. Good Luck. Changing ball joints is a breeze but it requires a several hundred dollar tool of course.

 

[Hasdrubal]

I've seen the punch method on Youtube vids. While I'm pretty good at applying 30 ft lbs by hand with a ratchet or even 100 ft lbs on wheel bolts. But how do you ensure 160 ft lbs with a hammer and punch? Maybe I don't have your experience as I've never done it. I'm aware that experienced mechanics usually don't consult a TM. They couldn't be bothered and worked on so many of these, they apparently know it all. Once I went to do my hub bearings, the last person to tighten the nuts was an experienced mechanic who did my axle u-joints. When I went to remove the outer nut, it just came right off..hardly any force applied to ratchet at all. Somewhat disconcerting.. I would say. I prefer to adhere to exact procedure and proper torque values on something as sensitive as hub bearings. Of course if I was in an African mud-hole and had to do it with a hickory stick and a coconut shell..well that's another matter. That being said..while searching all the places I keep CUCV parts, I found the tool, its a W1269.