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Mini writeup on new wheels

W

wallew

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Bob,
OK, now you GOTTA come back to my place, after you get the wheels on. We'll have a smallish get together and invite the local MV owners.

We will all be extremely interested in your wheels, the process and costs involved. After we've inspected the rides and then sit down to eat, you can 'tell the tale' as it were.

jim

PS - besides, I want a ride in yours so I can see how you did the motor swap - and you can drive mine with the new Michelin 22.5's j
 
T

Trango

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Boulder, CO
Ach, My reply got axed.

I have the DXF's - you may need to trim the OD, but I'll pass em over. They're straight cut at .760 holes for lug nuts (not acorn seat), so that may be an issue as well if you want to run nuts in. I could care if the lugnuts score the rims (which they will, again, not worried). PM me with an email addy and I'll send em over.

Also, the story, Jim, is pretty simple - get a friend to bang out a DXF, run to the burners to get some steel, tote that over to the waterjet, and all on a quick timeline. Heck, I'll be done with the wheels tonight! The only difference is that this is the first time I've used waterjet, but otherwise, pretty run of the mill... just another crazy project. You already have the costs... turned out a little spendier than I had planned, but eh... I need it done and on a really short timeline.

I should be able to align and weld the rims tonight... I have 1 or 2 small sidejobs I'm doing, but come hell or high water, these rims are going to be primered and loaded into the deuce by 6.30, tomorrow morning.

Cheers
Bob
 
T

Trango

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Boulder, CO
Hey guys,

an update - these things ate up I70. I have negligible runout, but now, I have to figure out how to get some caster into the front axle. 0º "tractor Castor" kills this thing going 70 with radials.

Bob
 
hot rod deuce

hot rod deuce

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Kasota, Mn
Yup your in the same boat as me now buddy! the front caster is all off on mine to. BUT thats most of the problem however i found that by "tightening" up the rear you get alot less. you see the rear springs are slopy in that slot? what happens is that when the axles are on one side and they are not perfectly alighned they will "jump" from side to side. Or at leat thats what i found to help. What i did was drive on a block with the front tandem and chain it to the frame. then when i crused down the road she went strait as a arrow. Still needs an alignment job though. anyone know where to get shims for the Camber angle?

Good luck and keep us posted
 
T

Trango

Member
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Location
Boulder, CO
Hey HRD...

This is that idea I had to tighten up the rear duals.... to eliminate that slop! I think I'll cut some "anti slop" shims tonight and see what I can do with those. I need to be back home early to unload a Dana 60 I'll be shaving, so that's good stuff.

Well, shims shouldn't be any problem to find. I'd want to go Steel, though.

Any idea what stock caster is in the front? are we at 0º, which is what it feels like?

Bob
 
cranetruck

cranetruck

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The caster on my deuce as measured is 3 to 4 deg. The condition of the leaf springs will effect the caster.
My truck runs straight as an arrow when driving on the freeway at 55 mph (plus or minus) and letting go of the steering wheel.

The sloppyness in the rear on my deuce has no effect on how it drives on the highway. Snaps and clanks a bit when loaded and off-road, though.

On how to measure the front end alignment parameters, see MVM issue 105, Oct 2004.

My tires are the old 1100 NDCC's and with the rear interaxle drive shaft removed and at 70 psi, the tire wear in the front is very even and about 1/32 per 1,000 miles.
 
T

Trango

Member
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Boulder, CO
Bjorn,

On flat concrete roads, my deuce is stable up to 70. The issue is rutted asphalt roads - chains are all but mandatory on the roads in question for a third of the year, and that takes a massive toll on the road surface. This is what really kills the deuce.

Also, one thing I've found is that at the 100psi that the tire places want to put into my tires increases the wander immensely. I'm wondering if the old bias tires react differently to speed and caster...

...or maybe, stock CAMBER in the front causes this thing to track harder when a flat-faced tire is used, instead of the NDT's, with their rounded crown.


Ahh well, I think I'll stick some shims into the guides, and see what that gets me.

Finally, a pic. This is at Arapahoe Basin ski area (a hair under 11,000 feet at the base), and it's for my friend's "Thrift store ski party". He always has to scramble for a stage every year, and I needed to road test the I 70, so I suggested the deuce. This is setup at like 8AM. Maybe 400 or 500 people at the height of the event. This was like a 10-keg deal. :D

 
M1075

M1075

Active member
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Thanks for the pic Bob. Now why did you have to put something in front of each of those pretty whells so we can't see? What tires are you running again?
 
DrFoster

DrFoster

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Cheyenne, WY & Condado, PR
cranetruck said:
My tires are the old 1100 NDCC's and with the rear interaxle drive shaft removed and at 70 psi, the tire wear in the front is very even and about 1/32 per 1,000 miles.
Click to expand...



WOOOOOOOOOOOOO BOY!

That's HIGH tire wear! I had no idea that the ndcc tires are that bad. You could use some commercial off road tires! 1/32 per 10,000 miles, lol! :wink:
 
T

Trango

Member
735
22
18
Location
Boulder, CO
yeah, cat, with a 2800 loaded redline RPM. .695 transmission. 45ish" tires.

I have a theoretical top speed of somewhere around 85.... Way too fast for anyone.
 
T

Trango

Member
735
22
18
Location
Boulder, CO
So, polvorone, the tires themselves (at 45") will boost your top speed from 60 to around 72. Think about it - they are 20 percent larger, so will allow you to go about 1/5 faster.
 
T

Trango

Member
735
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Location
Boulder, CO
Got some new pics.... sorry, taken right at dusk.

http://www.planetbantz.com/imghost/bob/tires/

Honestly, I am not crazy about the way that the front got wider and "squatter" looking. I think part of the appeal of the front end is the "highboy" look, which the wider wheels sort of kill, and to put radials on it looks about as hardcore as a candy striper.

But.... well, the truck drives well, so that's important.

I think I'll start putting together a budget for better tires. Although, I did a job for a guy that he picked up today, and on the way up, he calls me and tells me about a lathe he's selling (needs work, but does function). Turns out that I've just done a job that brings me to within $200 of the price.

Next saturday, 8 AM, delivery. God D+mn it!
 
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