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more power out of an F head

dougimes

Member
206
2
18
Location
greenville, sc
Hey Gang

The ms8a1 in the pix is my daily driver, has been since about August.

Winter in SC is mild, so the enclosure is serving very well.


It would be nice to have a little more power out of the F head. ( I have an over drive)

Dont need much more, 10% would make a difference. Its hilly hear and it wont quite pull the hills without downshifting. I am willing to put non stock stuff on as long as I can easily change it back.


Swap Carb for a Solex?
Anything i can do with the exhaust?
Clutching fan blade?
mods to ignition?


suggestions?
 

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natem

Member
690
14
18
Location
freeland/michigan
Port and polish, high compression pistons, big cam and a 4 bbl carb. ?

Seriously, Throttle body fuel injection. I've heard its been done with good results, I think it's been discussedin JP mag. or some placelike that.

Nate
 

quickfarms

Active member
3,495
22
38
Location
Orange Junction, CA
Old school, to get more power an engine swap is the answer but if you only want 10 percent you should be able to do that. You need to research this with old jeepers
 

zout

Well-known member
7,744
154
63
Location
Columbus Georgia
It may not be the full 10% - but its a start from the inside out.

It should be noted that viscosity has a significant effect upon measured power out-put of an engine. Fluid drag in an engine can therefor account for significant changes in dyno readings. For this reason, the correct way to accurately compare lubricants is to only directly rate them in relationship to oils of similar physical and hydrocarbon properties.
Using the correct viscosity of product for the ambient temperatures, engine tolerances, oil flow & oil pressure rate for the engine is very important for maximum performance. The chemical components in motor oils additionally have an effect upon the frictional characteristics of a lubricant.

 

1958 M274

Member
333
4
18
Location
North GA
Nice looking jeep! I have driven M38A1s with the stock Carter carburetor and with a Solex. In my experience, there is not much difference in performance. Since it lacks a conventional choke, the Solex equipped jeep is much harder to get started if the vehicle has been sitting more than a few days, or if it is cold outside. Personally, I stick with the factory carbs.

If you want to make sure you're getting the most out of your jeep in it's original configuration, be sure that the valves are set right, that the points and plugs are clean and gaped correctly, and that the air cleaner is clean.

One thing I've found that makes a noticeable difference in performance is timing. The factory spec for timing is usually fairly late for most military vehicles so that they can run on low octane gas (68 is the minimum spec listed on the M38A1 data plate, if I remember correctly). Since the lowest available these days from the pump is 87, the timing can be advanced from the factory setting. I usually do it by feel, advancing it in small increments until I get a little spark knock when under load at a low RPM, say, going up a hill. Then back off on the timing a little until you don't have any spark knock. This is your optimum timing setting.

After you have made sure all of the above listed items are correctly set, there are a few more things that you can look into. As Zout pointed out, friction from engine and drive train oil creates significant drag, especially when cold. The previous owner of my M35A2 (IornHorseTheGeneral) put all synthetic oils in the engine and drive train. I acquired the truck in the summer and didn't think that much about it to start with, but when winter came around, there was a big difference! The engine cranks over quicker and starts easier due to the viscosity of the oil. The transmission shifts easier, and there is much less rolling resistance when cold. If I were using one of my old jeeps or trucks as a daily driver, it would get synthetic oil in the engine and drive train.

Locking hubs would be on my list too. That is something that can easily be returned to original.

I'd do the above listed things and drive it a little while. If you still need more power, you can look at the intake and exhaust systems. The factory oil bath air cleaner works great, but is somewhat restrictive in its design. Peter Debella offers a kit that retrofits a dry paper cartridge into the stock air cleaner housing for WW2 jeeps. I don't know if there is one available for M38A1s or not, but it would be worth asking. Also, a little larger diameter exhaust could help some, but to me, a jeep should sound like a jeep when it is running. Different exhaust might make it sound different.

One thing that is often overlooked, be sure to keep your tires properly inflated... One or more low tires make a difference.

Good luck! :driver:
Joe
 

dougimes

Member
206
2
18
Location
greenville, sc
Great info, thanks

great info. Timing, and oil are good ideas.

I already addressed hubs and some of the other things

What weight synthetic oil do you run?
 

skinnedknuckles

New member
216
1
0
Location
Janesville Wisconsin
On my 1955 CJ-5 when I rebuilt the f-head engine , I put in hardened exhaust seats, smoothed out the ports, put on a Clifford Research header ( I don't think these are made anymore) and rebuilt the stock YF carb. Also I installed a Pertronix ignition (no more points). You might want to check with the early CJ-5 forum to get more info. Running with the overdrive does indeed eat up alot of power. The 'ol 5 has been to numerous Jeep Jamborees in the midwest and to the Badlands in Indiana, and The Cliffs in Illinois and I have been pretty happy with it.
Paul in Janesville
, Wis
 
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modified

Member
115
5
18
Location
BRookLyN
Swap Carb > Weber 32 / 36 progressive carb (you'll need the Carter Marine electric fuel pump that runs on 24VDC and a regulator to your existing.
Machine Deck (mill) your head .060"
Re-curve cam
Synthetic Oil (Motor only)
Port /Polish match exhaust
mild port-bore existing exhaust manifold
Swap exhaust to 2" or 2-1/4"
K/N filter conversion
Electric fan
ratio reduction pulleys
and goggles when your windshield is down to provide better Aerodynamics!!!:D
 

dougimes

Member
206
2
18
Location
greenville, sc
Learned a great deal in all this.

Here is what I did in response to all this-

1. Investigated timing. Turns out when the timing mark says TDC, #! is actually about 7 deg BTDC. There was no damage to the marker or pulley, so the lesson is you should always check to make sure tdc according to the marker is tdc.

I set the timing to 10 deg btdc (true tdc), run premium gas. Noticable difference

2. synthetic oil in the transfer case, which also serves the overdrive. Much less gear whine, and a a noticable difference in power

3. dismounted the spare tire, 70 lb radio, and fuel can for daily driving. reduced weight

4. Took off the mushroom shaped air inlet filter.


You wouldn't say it has a belly full of fire, but it runs pretty well, pulls the overdriven gear ok on normal interstate type hills. Runs 55 comfortably.
 
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