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Moving my M3 halftrack in the snow

Edelbroke

Member
35
4
8
Location
Princeton WI
I thought it would slide better on the snow packed driveway. It did not. The tracks decided not to turn which made moving it into a different garage (with heat) about a 4hr job. I don't have any pics of the actual circus that took place but at least I got it in the garage.
Had a helper holding a block of wood between the bumpers and pushed it with a Humvee in low gear. The truck has 255 miles on it.
I was told it was used by the forestry service. It has a pto driven water pump up front. What you see in the pics is just how I got it.
 

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battlecr

Active member
282
49
28
Location
Eugene, Oregon
Hey looks you have a good start. I've seen allot worse! Check my thread here and on the "G" I had to take 4' out of my frame. If I can offer any words of wisdom let me know!

Don G.
 

319

Lieutenant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,348
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Location
Michigan
Until you find and get your armor installed, plywood ( painted of course ) looks good from across the road.
 

M215

Member
478
3
18
Location
Spotsylvania, Virginia
Could your front axle or front brake shoes be locked up? Unusual for it be that difficult to maneuver. I had ours at a show once where the ground was mud, the track only wanted to travel straight without the front drive engaged. Nice starting point, stand back and watch your wallet hemorrhage. Good luck.
 

Edelbroke

Member
35
4
8
Location
Princeton WI
Until you find and get your armor installed, plywood ( painted of course ) looks good from across the road.
Funny you should say plywood. I've been thinking of making all of the missing armor out of 1/4 inch plywood and then using that as a pattern for real steel. I would fit all of the panels with the hinges right on the truck first. I'll have to locate the door hardware. I have one door hinge so at least I know what they look like. Has anyone ever fabricated the pin that locks the upper half of the door armor up?

Thanks for all of the comments guys
 

M215

Member
478
3
18
Location
Spotsylvania, Virginia
Looking at pictures of your track's frame, looks like you have an M2 or M2A1. The frame is overall 10" shorter, wrap around rear idler braces and close spacing of the two rear cross members are the visible differences. What does your data plate say and is it a White or Autocar?
 

Edelbroke

Member
35
4
8
Location
Princeton WI
Here are some frame pictures. There's a welded cut just forward of the drive axle on both sides where the kick up starts. Theres a reinforcing plate welded on the inside of the rails in this area. So i'm thinking it was shortend.
 

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M215

Member
478
3
18
Location
Spotsylvania, Virginia
Possibly incorrect data plate? Look at the LH frame rail outside surface above the front drive axle, the serial number will be stamped there. White used numbers only, 6 digit serial # starting with 2. Autocar serial numbers will start with M2-serial #. Diamond T did not manufacture M2 or M2A1 halftracks.

The cracks in your frame above the jack shaft is a common halftrack failure point. Not unusual to see them welded up in this area.

Wish I started with a nice halftrack like yours.

Attached are a couple frame pics and our M2A1 White. Karl
M3 frame.jpgM2 frame.jpgIMG_0737s.jpg
 

Edelbroke

Member
35
4
8
Location
Princeton WI
Ok, The frame numbers by the left front wheel on the frame are 274803 and they match the numbers stamped on the larger data tag on the right side of the dash. And by the rear frame it's a M2. This is my first halftrack, the only reason I thought it was an M3 is that's what is on the top of the data tag on the dash. (Hard to see in the pics but it does say M3)

The rest of the info on the tag is

Manufactures serial no: 274803

ORD Serial No: 9197

Some numbers stamped on the rubber track itself:
N-1602-6-57
ORD ASSY NO: G5600400

Thanks for all the info. Please keep it coming!
 

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battlecr

Active member
282
49
28
Location
Eugene, Oregon
Possibly incorrect data plate? Look at the LH frame rail outside surface above the front drive axle, the serial number will be stamped there. White used numbers only, 6 digit serial # starting with 2. Autocar serial numbers will start with M2-serial #. Diamond T did not manufacture M2 or M2A1 halftracks.

The cracks in your frame above the jack shaft is a common halftrack failure point. Not unusual to see them welded up in this area.

Wish I started with a nice halftrack like yours.

Attached are a couple frame pics and our M2A1 White. Karl
View attachment 408993View attachment 408994View attachment 408995
Karl, got one for you I have an early Diamond T M3. 1942 I think my frame may have been destined to be a Motor gun carriage maybe. Look at the idler braces on mine!

Don G
 

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M215

Member
478
3
18
Location
Spotsylvania, Virginia
Your serial number puts your halftrack around late 42 production. Our M2 was rebuilt into a M2A1 Serial #2754XX production date approx 5/43. I can't explain your data plate being marked M3. You can decide to restore your track as an M2 (w / skate rail) or M2A1 (w / pulpit ring mount). If you decide to restore it as an M2, I'll donate an unmarked brass M2 data plate that you can stamp your serial / ord numbers on. PM your address to me and I'll mail it to you.
 

M215

Member
478
3
18
Location
Spotsylvania, Virginia
Karl, got one for you I have an early Diamond T M3. 1942 I think my frame may have been destined to be a Motor gun carriage maybe. Look at the idler braces on mine!

Don G
Hey Don, I have noticed the variant on your frame before, that is one weird / mutant set up. Could be different for the GMC, I never had a chance to check one out. Any chance the brace could be off an International?
 

Edelbroke

Member
35
4
8
Location
Princeton WI
Your serial number puts your halftrack around late 42 production. Our M2 was rebuilt into a M2A1 Serial #2754XX production date approx 5/43. I can't explain your data plate being marked M3. You can decide to restore your track as an M2 (w / skate rail) or M2A1 (w / pulpit ring mount). If you decide to restore it as an M2, I'll donate an unmarked brass M2 data plate that you can stamp your serial / ord numbers on. PM your address to me and I'll mail it to you.
Thanks for the offer on the plate. I'm not sure which direction to go with this yet. I posted a wanted add in the classifieds on this site looking for armor and got a call. I'm going to look at some armor only about an hour away some time next week. They may have pulpit armor as well. What i'm finding on these halftracks is the parts are out there (albeit not cheap in some cases) And that's only half the battle. Everything is so heavy! You can get quite a work out just opening the hood!
 

col.halftrack

Member
32
0
6
Location
Kansas
Edelbrock,
I replied to your posts on the G asking to confirm that your frame number matched the data plate. As I thought I figure your track was rebuilt from M2 to M2A1 and either the dash plate was lost or they had no M2A1 was M2 plates. White seems to have made a bunch of the M3 dataplates and many have surfaced loose and unstamped. White actually made very few M3 halftracks as compared to the other manuf. but it seems they might have ordered a bit too many data plates. These were used as M3-75GMC and T19 105s were converted into M3 and I suppose in your case as replacement for lost or conversions when nothing else was available.
Kevin
 
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