Am I testing them right? I hooked my Positive lead to the positive terminal and unhooked the First passenger side glowplug but got nothing when I touched the negative lead to the plug. Then it struggled to get 8volts out of the green wire connecting into it. Same thing with the next one.
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my 24v mess
- Thread starter Wncenergy
- Start date
jeryshery
Member
The resistor changes the voltage from 24 to 12 right before the glow plug relay. So the voltage you should be reading at the glow plug wires should be between 10-13 volts with the ignition on and it should cycle on and off.
EDIT: If the voltage is low I would check all the connections and wires going to the glowplugs for maybe a loose or bad wire or bad connecion. Starting with the positive side of the junction block tracing the wire from there to the resistor. Then from the other side of the resistor to the 12 volt junction block. Then from the junction block to the relay. While your checking all the connections ground the volt meter to the frame then check all the connections with the volt meter. You should get 24v at the junction block. 24v at the resistor. 12 volt after the resistor and everything all the way to the relay
EDIT: If the voltage is low I would check all the connections and wires going to the glowplugs for maybe a loose or bad wire or bad connecion. Starting with the positive side of the junction block tracing the wire from there to the resistor. Then from the other side of the resistor to the 12 volt junction block. Then from the junction block to the relay. While your checking all the connections ground the volt meter to the frame then check all the connections with the volt meter. You should get 24v at the junction block. 24v at the resistor. 12 volt after the resistor and everything all the way to the relay
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These links may help you with the meter.
http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU
http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU
MarcusOReallyus
Well-known member
You will see 12v after the resistor ONLY when the glow plugs are on. When there is no current flowing, you'll see 24v on both sides of the resistor.
How do you test the fusible link with the rubber coating, will the wires fit back in there? Also I have to manually hold up a switch to engage the glow plugs, will I just need to set my multimeter up so that I can see while I hold it or do they still cycle on and off with just the key on.
jeryshery
Member
This is why I edited my post I'm glad someone spotted the mistake otherwise it could turn out to be a pita when someone goes to check there voltage.
wayne pick
New member
I've been watching this thread for a while and figured i'd chime in. The blue to red GP bypass wire does not need a fuseable link in it. The way it's wired, there should be 12v to top lug on the GP relay/solinoid. If not, there is enough red wire to eliminate the blue portion of the wire and the fuseable link. Simply cut the wire on the red side of the link and crimp a ring terminal to it. then go to the 12v bus with the ring terminal.
richingalveston
Well-known member
looks like the bypass has been done and the resistor removed. I should show up in the pick behind the air cleaner but I cannot see it. but yes, the bypass has been done with the way it is wired to the 12volt terminal block. Need to check and see if the fusable lingks are still good. both the one between the 12 volt block and relay and the one from the battery to the 12 volt block
Your relay is bad.
It is not passing all the voltage due to dirty contacts.
Replace it with the proper relay.
GPR109 or st85
It is a good idea before you install a new one, to test it to be 100% sure it is proper for this system. Simply use your meter and test for continuity between the "frame" of the relay(shinny metal mount area) to all 4 terminal. There should be no continuity.
It is not passing all the voltage due to dirty contacts.
Replace it with the proper relay.
GPR109 or st85
It is a good idea before you install a new one, to test it to be 100% sure it is proper for this system. Simply use your meter and test for continuity between the "frame" of the relay(shinny metal mount area) to all 4 terminal. There should be no continuity.
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Since you are unsure of how to use the meter....
Continuity is resistance and it is Ohms on the meter. Flip it the resistance and touch both meter leads together and it should read zero. Then do what Doghead said.
Continuity is resistance and it is Ohms on the meter. Flip it the resistance and touch both meter leads together and it should read zero. Then do what Doghead said.
