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my first CUCV m1009 has some problems need some help.

CCATLETT1984

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RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: my first CUCV m1009 has some pro

Do not put a jack on the oil pan. Idealy you use an engine hoist (cherry picker) and a length of chain bolted to the top of the engine.
 

TOBEXA

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Re: RE: my first CUCV m1009 has some problems need some help

mangus580 said:
Real simple... you have a leak in your fuel system. The air getting in the system is causing the high revving. I have (as well as others) have noticed, there is a particular leak (have never found it) that will allow air into the system anytime its parked nose UP hill.... so who knows, you might have some sort of leak letting fuel out depending on how you are parked.

The good news is.... There is a CUCV EXPERT in Olathe (well last I knew) Brian from BRtruckparts lives there. Although I dont know how to get in touch with him anymore. I might still have an email address for him, if you need me to look, PM me.

is there a cucv expert in or around san diego?
 

maritimer

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RE: Re: RE: my first CUCV m1009 has some problems need some

i just did mine today took 3 hours and one of those crank style bottle jacks, i put the jack on the harmonic balencer *dont give many any heck guys i didnt have access to a hoist*. unbolted the mount and jacked the enigine up 3 inches removed the mount and bolted the new one up.
i did have a problem with the new mount for some reason the mount wasn tthe same as the one that came off even though it was listed as such, i had to re drill the lower bolt holes to match on the frame side. once that was done it was a cinch. you will have to remnove the starter to get the main bolt from the mount* the big one that couples gthe engine side to the frame side* if you need any advice shoot me a PM


if you have to use a jack try and limit the amoutn of time spent with the engine jacked, i unbolted everything first jacked and r&r then unjacked as fas tas possible.
the majority of the time was because i have really big hands that dont fit well under the hood.
 

marine0311

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RE: Re: RE: my first CUCV m1009 has some problems need some

Well it's been awhile since i posted anything and last weekend when i was gonna put the motor mount in my Uncle's determined that it didn't need one. I'm still a bit iffy on the situation and would like to know what the symptoms of needing a motor mount would be. Also do any of you guys who have CUCV's use them as daily drivers and what are your experiences with diesel durning the winter. ( Where do i put a block heater?)
 

maritimer

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RE: Re: RE: my first CUCV m1009 has some problems need some

its hard to tell without getting right under there and looking but the "ears on the engine side of the mount look like the are lower to the ground then the base of the mount then your mount is likely shot. as for the cold i am candian cold is something i am quite used to lol i use a circulating inline coolant heater cost me $50 at local auto parts place and took an hour to install
 

CCATLETT1984

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RE: Re: RE: my first CUCV m1009 has some problems need some

If you are use a freeze plug heater, you need to put it in one of the front two plugs on the drivers side. FYI the freeze plug can fall into the block if your not careful, but even if it does you can get it out.(after some cursing ;) )
 

CUCV85

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from what you describe you want to have a look at the mechanical lift pump located on the passenger side of the engine block right down below the front of the exhaust manifold check the ruber lines going into it for a leak, obviously your losing diesel somewhere if its not there then check the fuel filter on the passenger side of the firewall the base may be leaking a bit. fuel leaking allows air into the system and somtimes that will cause the "rpm surge" you describe often times it will just air lock your injection system and stall your motor. without hearing/seeing it i cant be of to much help but i can tell you from expierience that theinlet fuel line on the lift pump is a sore spot in my books cause if the engine mount is weak/collapsed it will pinch the fuel line and rupture it and you end up spending 3 days changeing a perfectly good $50 lift pump leak diesel all over the place and still end up with a stalled 5500lb truck in the middle of the road lol
:arrow:If you do change the Mechanical Fuel Pump (REMEMBER the 1.49 Gasket)
Part No. 41618
Warranty: 1 YEAR REPLACEMENT IF DEFECTIVE Can you ship it?: Yes
In-Store Availability: YES
COST $18.99:grin:

I agree check the all the fuel lines (SYSTEM) put air pressure to your fuel tank by a rag and airp blow gun attachment at Fuel Cap opening (filler neck)
Change the Mechanical Fuel lift or "FEED" Pump as preventive Maintenance, takes an hour with good tools and an extra hand to hand you 1 - 2 - 3 :)
 
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CUCV85

Member
309
4
18
Location
central/ny
Well it's been awhile since i posted anything and last weekend when i was gonna put the motor mount in my Uncle's determined that it didn't need one. I'm still a bit iffy on the situation and would like to know what the symptoms of needing a motor mount would be. Also do any of you guys who have CUCV's use them as daily drivers and what are your experiences with diesel durning the winter. ( Where do i put a block heater?)
Some use Power Service/Howes antigel additive and injector cleaner available at Walmart and Tractor Supply Company TSC. Some use a block heater 41 mm in one of the first 2 freeze plug holes on drivers side OR a inline - coolant heater, bottom hose - of the Radiator. I like the Coolant heater but it only gets down to 15 below around Central NY State.:roll:
A little Power Service, A little Howes, A little Marvals Mystery Oil, and a red bottle of HEET or 2 and your good to go. LOL
 
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