My new M109

onemanarmy

Member
99
0
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
Hey everybody!

Recently purchased a 1966 M109 w/ow and D turbo.

Hours and miles are not too high (don't recall at this moment)

Here is the only pic I have of it at this time:


I've been reading a ton, and have begun to fix some issues.

I had to replace one of the brake hardlines that runs along the driver side frame rail. Trying to decide whether or not to go with DOT 3 or DOT 5. I've read most of the threads on the subject, and an building a power bleeder this afternoon. Something odd though. When I first got the truck, there was a leaking hard line, so I replaced it. I have yet to bleed the brakes, but when I cranked the truck after replacing the line, the no air buzzer came on, and the truck would not build air pressure. Does the hydraulic system have to be bled for proper build up of air?

Also. one of the plastic/rubber fuel lines is leaking (where the two connect to the fuel filters)
I see the tube is just oil resistant plastic tubing, but where to get new threaded ends? Can you buy premade hoses (NOS/aftermarket/etc?)

Looking forward to getting this thing on the road, and will get plenty of pics soon. (and figure out an efficient way to post them)

Thanks
 
Last edited:

onemanarmy

Member
99
0
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
Fixed a leaky hardline and bled the brakes yesterday. Seems to stop pretty good now.

Takes a good bit of time to crank, (7-8 secs) but once it fires up, it runs great. What should I look for? New fuel filters and oil / oil filters are on the list next.
 

onemanarmy

Member
99
0
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
well, after watching that Youtube vid, I've realized that dude would have been better off not making it.

No part numbers, constantly calls the parts the wrong names, installs the parts backwards, uses air line (makes no mention of if the line is good for fuel/oils), and overall seems confused and disorganized.

Now I know what not to do.

Would have taken 2 mins to explain and show, with detail, what is needed and what to do.
now I understand why every used car I buy has idiotic things done to it.

I'll report back with what works
 
Last edited:

Mike929

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
822
19
18
Location
DFW, Tx
Just saw the thread, congratulations on the new truck.

My Deuces usually start immediately for reference, assume something in the fuel system is causing the delay.
 

onemanarmy

Member
99
0
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
The electric pump works, but I have a small diesel leak at one of the plastic/rubber lines. Will be fixing and see if that makes a difference. I don't think it should, its a very small leak.

I've been around trucks that start very quickly, so mine is off somewhere.
 

onemanarmy

Member
99
0
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
Got the fluids and filters changed/checked yesterday, seems to check out ok....still some issues to iron out and maintenance to catch up on.

Question: I have high range, no problems/noises/issues what so ever. However, when sitting stopped, and try and shift into low range, very occasionally I get a grinding sound when I let off the clutch. However, most of the time, I get nothing, like its in neutral when I let off the clutch. Is there some adjustment for the t case for high and low range? I'm not too concerned with the low range, but I'm worried that there may be a bigger issue.
 

Capriceii

Member
106
9
18
Location
Streetsboro, Ohio
Congrats on the 109, I have a Love Love relationship with mine:) Love to Drive it, Love to Fix it, and Love towing it:)

Great hobby, just keep a level head and $2000 in reserve for Tow and parts:)

Enjoy your truck and welcome to the club!
 

onemanarmy

Member
99
0
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
So any input on why everything is fine in high range, but I get nothing (like in neutral) when I try to engage low range? Every so often I'll get a slight grind sound, but I push the clutch in immediately to limit the damage.

Changed the oil in the T case...it looked a little silvery, but no chunks came out.
 

onemanarmy

Member
99
0
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
Got it for a good price, pretty much fell into my lap. Towed to my house for free (2 hrs away). Saved a ton of time and gas money right there.

I'm driving this one. Does good. Everything works under the hood and electrically. Box is in pretty good shape (for the money) Minimal surface rust on the cab.

The only issue I have now is low range, which is not needed 90% of the time, as mine won't be pulling and will be on pavement. But, I'm curious if there is an adjustment or other troubleshooting tips for the T case.

Thanks

\
 

Wolfgang the Gray

Active member
318
36
28
Location
New River, AZ
So any input on why everything is fine in high range, but I get nothing (like in neutral) when I try to engage low range? Every so often I'll get a slight grind sound, but I push the clutch in immediately to limit the damage.

Changed the oil in the T case...it looked a little silvery, but no chunks came out.
I'm guessing "a little silvery" might be the problem. It must have loads of shavings in it to look silvery.
 

onemanarmy

Member
99
0
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
I'm guessing "a little silvery" might be the problem. It must have loads of shavings in it to look silvery.
Quite possibly.

So, if some shavings that bad? When I change the differential oil and T case oil on some of my other older vehicles, I get some shavings on the magnetic drain plugs.

Is there a way to adjust or really tell what is going on with the T case on the truck?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks