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My new M109

Valence

Well-known member
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Davis County, UT
Those links are the same. But yes, you have "old style" brake lights. Two revisions out-of-date. The nothing wrong with them other than being very, very dim by today's standards. The old style also only has 3 wires vs the newer being 4 wires (or 4 + 1 ground).

The newest style are LEDs:
https://www.realcustomtrucks.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=11614157LED
 

cattlerepairman

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Have you had any luck adjusting the linkage for the transfer case (high/low)?
There are new/rebuilt/good takeout air shift transfer cases out there. If adjusting the linkage does not give you low range, I suggest you source a replacement TC. If you are eager, you can later rebuild yours as a spare. There is one in the classifieds right now for $500.
 
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onemanarmy

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Raleigh, NC
Have not looked into adjustment. It's kinda on the back burner until some other things are taken care of. I need to find out where the adjustability is.
 

KaiserM109

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RE Brake lights
You have the very old ones which are terribly small. I drove my 109 from the auction site in Ft. Riley, KS in the rain and about got run over.

MY ADVICE get a pair of newer ones and put them on. The wire numbers are the same and they will bolt right onto the brackets. Look on the classified ads on this site for LED lights, they are great! Otherwise find someone that is parting out a truck or trailer newer than '70 (I think).

I have the ones off my truck and will give them to some one, but only for the purpose of restoring a show vehicle to original condition.
 

onemanarmy

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Pretty close to getting it back on the road.

The brakes feel good, and I get no weird noises/vibrations/or smells when driving it on a quick 3 mile shakedown run.

I do want to go through the brake shoes and wheel bearings as a baseline. Pretty straight-forward job? If noting is out of place and/ or leaking, how deep should I go into the assembly?
 

QUADJEEPER

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Winter Springs, FL
Pretty close to getting it back on the road.

The brakes feel good, and I get no weird noises/vibrations/or smells when driving it on a quick 3 mile shakedown run.

I do want to go through the brake shoes and wheel bearings as a baseline. Pretty straight-forward job? If noting is out of place and/ or leaking, how deep should I go into the assembly?
No weird noises, vibes, smells? You sure it's running? :shock:
 

onemanarmy

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0
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Location
Raleigh, NC
No weird noises, vibes, smells? You sure it's running? :shock:
Good call.

No OTHER issues, besides being loud, hot, and slow. But those I can deal with.

I'm mainly concerned with keeping it all together on a 40-50 mile run. I'd like to take all the wheels off and do a good inspection, and get some grease in there, but I don't feel the need to dig way into it if nothing is obviously wrong.

Thanks
 

Jericho

Well-known member
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Location
Landaff NH
Its not an M 109 A3 or 4 if it isn't shake , rattle and while rolling Humm could be it has had the retro muffler bearing up grade, If the shoes are good and pedal is satisfactory , blow it clean and leave it, Most didn't get a lot of heavy use, Shack trucks spent a lot of time in the yard , good for us. !!!!
 

cattlerepairman

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onemanarmy

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When a rear axle is dumping gear oil all over the inside of a rim and tire! Wheel bearings are grease lubricated and have a seal system in place to keep grease in and oil and dirt out.
So I don't have that problem, but a leaking wheel cylinder became obvious yesterday.

Looked through the TM and other threads on the subject of replacing the wheel cylinders, but oddly enough, there was not straight answer. (Surprise surprise)

To be clear, I need:
new wheel cylinder or rebuild kit
axle gasket
3" 8 pt socket
brake clean
bleed the brakes
are funky pliers necessary to get the springs off the brake shoes?

anything else NECESSARY just for a wheel cylinder job? Obviously there are 50 things you CAN do 'while in there'. The 3" socket is used to get the brake drum off, correct?

Thanks
 

onemanarmy

Member
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0
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Location
Raleigh, NC
Working through all the issues....

My radiator is leaking, so I took it out and had a radiator shop check it out.

They say it needs to be recored due to to corrosion. I trust them. To the tune of $800.

I read another member had retrofitted a 'civilian' radiator to the tune of about $400, that is a possibility. So I checked Ebay and NOS are running $800-$900. Kinda pricey.

So there are a ton of these trucks out on the road, how are others handling leaky 40 year old radiators in an economical fashion?
 
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Valence

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Location
Davis County, UT
So there are a ton of these trucks out on the road, how are others handling leaky 40 year old radiators in an economical fashion?
Most I've read just get theirs rebuilt locally, or a used take out from another member - but I've never read about someone bothering to ship a used radiator!
 
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USAFSS-ColdWarrior

Chaplain
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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5,514
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Location
San Angelo, Tom Green County, Texas USA
Of the thousand pounds or so of spare parts we got when we won our Deuce, we are fortunate to have a freshly tested, ready to use radiator. It's got its own cozy spot in our storage area where its not likely to be damaged until and if we ever need it.
Being valued at $800.... We only paid $756.32 for the Deuce (cab and chassis - RUNNING) WITH all those extra parts. Again, I think we got a good deal.
Praise be to GOD !
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,825
4,156
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Of the thousand pounds or so of spare parts we got when we won our Deuce, we are fortunate to have a freshly tested, ready to use radiator. It's got its own cozy spot in our storage area where its not likely to be damaged until and if we ever need it.
Being valued at $800.... We only paid $756.32 for the Deuce (cab and chassis - RUNNING) WITH all those extra parts. Again, I think we got a good deal.
Praise be to GOD !
It's good to be lucky. [thumbzup]
 
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