Need Help Diagnosing Fuel Delivery Issue

[WWRD99]

Well I tried again last night - got it fired up and still the same problem. Installed the clear hose like mentioned, and there was not an air bubble when it was running. Only after shutting it off did a small bubble form.
View attachment 948910Next i tried cracking injector lines while it was running and had about 20% throttle. It would idle down each time i cracked an injector line, and spurt from the hose under pressure, then would idle back up once i tightened the nut (understandable i am thinking since then there would be pressure back in the system again):

IMG_0982.MOV

drive.google.com

You can see below that there is a bit of rust inside the governor housing, not sure that that matters since the fuel looks clean? Fuel Wouldn't be too old or anything. Within the last year easy

View attachment 948911

View attachment 948912

It just seems to me like the IP is running and working but there is some other small issue causing the timing to be off? Or maybe i am wrong and this is a key symptom of an injector pump going out?

Does that governor sleeve even move?? That is very rusted shut. It would make sense why it shuts off now.

 

[huskerfan]

Does that governor sleeve even move?? That is very rusted shut. It would make sense why it shuts off now.

Yes it does, it just doesn't go back after hitting full throttle - video below:

IMG_1047.MOV

drive.google.com

I thought the metering valve was sticking, but after pulling off the injection pump and then looking at my buddy's injection pump on his 6.2, i am not sure what causes the metering valve to close after you let off the throttle because his does not seem to close either after letting off of the throttle? Video of his IP below that is a lot cleaner than mine:

IMG_1055.MOV

drive.google.com

I thought there would be a spring around the metering valve that would cause it to pull back shut when you lift off the throttle, but after pulling out the governor allen head bolt, there was no spring around the metering valve once i removed it. Does anyone know what causes the metering valve to close when you let off the throttle? I was just going to swap this IP from my buddy's 6.2 into mine, but if the linkage on it moves the same as mine, it seems i would have the same issue....

 

[huskerfan]

Well guys finally got the other IP swapped over that came off my buddy's donor 6.2

Was able to get it to fire up right away after swapping it over and now it will stay running and not die after letting off the throttle.

Only weird thing was the first time i got it to fire off, it acted like it wanted to run away, but i turned the key off and it shut down. I was cautious to get the fuel shutoff solenoid on the correct way so as to not have a runaway engine, pulled the cover off to double check and it was on correctly. So i fired it back up again and it seemed better, chalked it up to excess fuel in the motor. It would still sometimes die after letting off the throttle though.

Anyways i had the IP kicked about a matchbook cover to the drivers side initially per the recommendation on this site from the gent that did the forum writeup about swapping an IP. It idled rough though, so i kicked it about 1/8th of an inch to the passenger side:

Now it doesn't die when you let off the throttle, but it still is idling rough. It almost seems like it is "hunting" for the sweet spot when it is at idle. Revs up and down a bit trying to find a happy place. Video below, hard to tell that it is idling rough though, more so proof that it is not dying once i let off the throttle anymore:

IMG_1109.MOV

drive.google.com

Do i need to kick it more to the passenger side? Or back to the drivers just a bit?

 

[Barrman]

Try lining the marks up straight across and see how it does. Here is a video about different ways to check the timing:

 

[vanaisa]

Your friends IP marks are for his car, not yours.