Need some help getting my MEP006A Genset to run 480 Volts

[tristanh4]

I received a response from sewerzuk (thank you for your detailed response by the way. Very helpful and your info helped me get the generator working) last week in regards to getting my machine to produce power.

It is now producing power but I cannot seem to get it up to 480 Volts (which is what I need). Whenever I move the L1, L2, L3, control, the highest voltage I can get the machine to output is 250 volts.

Does this mean something is wrong with my genset? Is there some sort of switch that I need to hit to allow me to get up to 480 volts? Any detailed response that may help is much, much appreciated.

Thanks so much in advance. Looking forward to hearing what lies ahead.

Much appreciation,
tristanh4

 

[mckeeranger]

Here is a link to the TMs:

MEP-006A Manuals « Brandon's Blog

 

[Brandon314159]

Have you confirmed the voltage card is in the right position? One sets the generator for 120/240V and the other for higher voltage.

My MEP006 would output 477 phase-to-phase but anything higher would kick off the over-volt limit and shutdown the gen-set.

I would connect a multi-meter across two of the phases and confirm your voltages there, versus the panel meters. You can actually measure each phase w/ relation to ground and also phase-to-phase (which is where you would see the 480V).

The set is not designed for 480V, however it seems to work 'okay'.

Make sure the 6 diodes on the exciter section are all good (easy to check, read the service manual). I lost my exciter diodes, which then over-current the coils and melted some wiring. Now I have a nasty repair on my hands

Also I believe the MEP006 is wired up for WYE not DELTA so keep that in mind.

Later!

 

[tristanh4]

Thanks so much for the manual, I appreciate that!

 

[Brandon314159]

PM me if you have any issues. I'm pretty familiar with my MEP006.

Later!

 

[tristanh4]

Thanks for the great explanation. I have not confirmed the voltage card (not sure where that's at exactly, but I'll do some looking).

Can I ask where the "phases" are located to test them? I'm not too familiar with these at all. I'm a beginner....just learning.

Lastly, what is the WYE and DELTA?

Thanks so much for your great, detailed response!

 

[Brandon314159]

Delta/Wye Explanation:
http://www.teal.com/newsletter/AppsNote15.pdf

You'd want to be careful about your loads and how they are configured relative to the generator. Transformers included as well.


The 4 output connections are on the left side (as viewing from the control panel end). The door closest to the control panel on that side, down low, there are some large copper lugs w/ nuts (hopefully). These are the output connections. THESE ARE LIVE WHEN THE CONTACTOR IS ON so be careful, there's enough current there to burn you for a long time. You can test between these points with a volt-meter to figure out what is what. Again, be careful (one hand rule applies here...keep one in the pocket and manipulate a probe with the other). Google the electrical one hand rule if you need to know more.

The voltage card is directly to the left of these connections and has a bunch of nuts on the ends of studs. Look at the operation manual to figure out how they work.

Cautions about the MEP006:
Make sure the injection pump shaft seals are good and not pouring diesel into the motor oil. If you see the oil level increasing or smelling 'diesely', you need to have the shaft seals replaced.

There is a rubber coupling in the injection pump that is a known failure item if the set has been sitting for many years. It will produce black rubber bits under the inspection cover (on the injection pump, right side of the set near the radiator).

The excitor diodes don't do well with back EMF. It's been discussed here about installing a volt-meter or current limiting device on the exciter wiring to prevent future damage. I'm dealing with this issue currently. Upgrading these diodes (as I outlined on my blog, Brandon's Blog) isn't a bad idea either.

Load the set to at least 50-75% regularly, otherwise it will not treat you well at all. I used to connect 45kW of electric three-phase heaters inline once and awhile if the loads were light. It burns fuel, but the engine will not last if you run it at low loads regularly.

Enjoy!

 

[tristanh4]

Wow...you have been extremely helpful in your messages. Again, thanks so much for that. I'll definitely look into some of the things you've stated, with great detail. I know these can be very dangerous (especially for me --- someone who doesn't know the machines all that well).

Hopefully I can come up with something soon and I will certainly message and let you know how it works out!

Thanks again!

 

[Brandon314159]

BTW

 

[tristanh4]

Voltage card switch over to 416 volts

When I am changing the voltage card over from 120/208 to 240/416, I have left over, 3 nuts. I assume I should place those back on the open bolts, right?

Thanks!

 

[Brandon314159]

Yes.

 

[tristanh4]

Thanks for all the help. That's all I had to do and it worked great!

One last thing:

I ended up getting two of these generators but the other one needs fixing up a bit. Do you know where I can buy the starter switch for this machine?

Thanks!

 

[Brandon314159]

Switch shouldn't be anything amazing. You need a on-off-on switch with momentary one direction, and not in the other. Probably DPDT (double pole, double throw).

If you happen to come across a generator for parts, I need an exciter winding in-case the repair of mine does not end successfully.

Glad you got it working!

 

[PeterD]

Switch shouldn't be anything amazing. You need a on-off-on switch with momentary one direction, and not in the other. Probably DPDT (double pole, double throw).

If you happen to come across a generator for parts, I need an exciter winding in-case the repair of mine does not end successfully.

Glad you got it working!

Nope, not on-off-on, but on-on-off, which is a much harder to find animal... Down is stop, center is run, up is start.

 

[Brandon314159]

Duh...sorry I wasn't thinking

Does this one look correct?

6GG5B-73 Carling Technologies Toggle Switches

Momentary, on, off.

Not sure if double pole or not...would want to check inside genny to see what it is.

 

[PeterD]

The switch is a 3PDT, so more research is needed: (From the MEP-004A manual...)

 

[Brandon314159]

The switch is a 3PDT, so more research is needed: (From the MEP-004A manual...)

Looking at that schematic, you might be able to tie the two similar functions together with diodes (if it can deal with the V-drop).

that way you could use a DPDT

Just a thought!

 

[tristanh4]

Starter Switch for MEP-006A Generator

So, I have not been able to find the starter switch that I need.

It's difficult for me to try to make one work.

Can anyone direct me right to where I can buy one?

I have this link: 3pdt mini toggle switch - product summary - Bing Shopping

But I cannot be certain if it's got the correct amount of terminals
to be correct with the genset. I don't mind buying it to try it out
but if not hooked up correctly, can it damage the machine?

Thanks and all responses are appreciated!

Tristan

 

[Ken_86gt]

Why don't you just replace the single switch with 2 switches- one switch is an On/Off toggle toggle switch, the second is a momentary push to start. It looks like it would be very easy to do and can be done with readily available off the shelf parts. See picture.

 

[tristanh4]

For me, it's difficult to understand what that means exactly. I do appreciate your response though.

I do not know much about these machines, engines, switches, etc. I sort of fell into this machine (and another one). I don't have the other one any more unfortunately so It's hard for me to find that switch.

If I was to go to an auto store, would they know what I need I'm wondering?

Thanks for your response