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New 5 inch lift. no tires yet. what do ya think

musclecars664

New member
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Location
Northern VA
Hey guys, my family, friends, and i just finished installing 5 inches of lift to my M1028. I got the whole kit from Offroad Design.

FRONT:
Tuff Country 4" Lift Heavy Duty Springs.
Tuff Country SX8000 Shocks.
Braided Stainless Brake Lines.
Drop Pitman Arm.
1" Zero Rates.

REAR:
ORD 4" Shackle Flip Kit.
Tuff Country SX8000 Shocks.
Braided Stainless Brake Line.
1" Zero Rates.

The rear drive shaft works fine but the front turned out to be about 1/4 to a 1/2 inch too short, gonna have to figure something out with that.

I haven't gotten tires yet but hopefully they will come soon so i get some better pictures while doing some cool things.
 

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hovenga67

New member
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Location
Evansdale/IA
My front shaft worked with my 6 pro comp springs? All I had to do was slide the slip joint out. It was stuck a little but slide out with a little help.
Brent
 

scottodog

New member
38
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0
Location
nj
I just finished my 4 inch lift with 16.5 x 10 rims and 36" hummer tires and it looks great. Did you put the spacers on the transfer case skid to the bottom of the frame to drop the transfer case? This helped with the short drive shafts on mine. Scott
 

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Hey Scottodog, what are those things in the front below the bumper on your M1008? I am in the process of doing a lift on mine with 52" springs. I have not quite decided if I am going to keep the pivot point in the front, or make a braket for the rear and make that the pivot, then do a "shackle flip" on the front, so to speak, using some rear shackles from another truck. I was just wondering if that is what you did to get a 6" lift. How do those 36" tires clear when you turn and the nose is down?
 

scottodog

New member
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Location
nj
The mounts on the front are snow plow brackets. They were 9 1/2 inches from the ground at the bottom hole now they are 16+ to the bottom hole. I will have to make some lowering brackets to keep plowing that I can remove to wheel. When you do your lift you will need longer brake lines or to cut the stock brackets and reweld them angled down for the front and the rear brake line I just bent the stock bracket on the axle up and it was fine. My emerg. brake cable on the drivers side was so tight after the lift I had to cut the hole that it runs through by the rear wheel to release the tension and it is fine. before that the left rear wheel emerg brake bound up. Wheels clear with lots of room I could prob put 38's on without cutting fenders. I used the rough country 4 inch springs in the front and blocks in the back. The truck drives great and the engine revs are way lower. I dont know how much my speedometer is off but I'm guessing around 5mph.
 

FMJ

In Memorial
In Memorial
4,210
37
0
Location
Las Cruces, NM
Don't worry about a front driveshaft, I've seen many Toyota's and such with no front driveshaft and 12'' lifts. . .

It's called the "asphalt only conversion kit" :twisted:



Seriously though, take your old shaft to a driveline shop, have them use your yokes
and add a longer tube.
 
Thanks for the info. I am still currently at the stage of placing the front springs. It is a little tricky figuring out how they should mount when they were not originally intended for this use. I've cut a piece of 2x4 52" long and marked the center at 26". Then I hung a small washer from a string attached to the top of the bolt that secures the bump stop directly over where the axle should be, so that is my plumb line. Now I am still trying to decide which end to pivot from. I am pretty sure I am going to make it the rear of the spring rather than the front. Sort of like a Jeep - shun the thought.
 

dstang97

Well-known member
1,859
30
48
Location
Clover, SC
Thats some serious asphalt pounding. and a little bit of curb action. JK looks good. Mine looks the same 5 inch lift with stockers.

Do you have a np205 or 208? they do sell an inch spacer for the front driveshaft. forgot who made it though
 
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allrevup

Member
271
2
18
Location
Delaware
Look Right!
I never heard of drive shaft issues with less then 6" lift kits, if the right * shims are used
maybe the front shafts where wrong to start with?
If you most replace, Check out "Tom Woods" and "High Angle" drive shafts websites for great info and OEM alternatives
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
akonitony: I strongly advise NOT putting the shackles on the front of the springs with the 52 swap. It won't steer for crap and it puts a lot more work on you. It's really easy to swap the 52s in with not a lot of hassle. Do a search on yahoo or something.

Usually people grind the rivets off the front spring hanger, move them forward, bolt them back on then put 7" shackles on the rear. That's about all there is to it.
 

deuceman08

New member
36
0
0
Location
NJ
my drive shaft was ok all the way up to 8 inches but my cousin put a spacer between his driveshaft flange and the transfer case. ( cheap fix, but the best way would be to get it lengthened)
 

musclecars664

New member
56
1
0
Location
Northern VA
Look Right!
I never heard of drive shaft issues with less then 6" lift kits, if the right * shims are used
maybe the front shafts where wrong to start with?
If you most replace, Check out "Tom Woods" and "High Angle" drive shafts websites for great info and OEM alternatives

when i took the shaft off because it was too short, i figured i would go ahead and measure the extention on it. Fully compressed it is about 31 1/4 ish long. Fully extended its about 33 1/4 ish long. so after about 2 inches of travel when extending it you can feel it lock solid like its hitting a stop or something. is about 2 inches typical or should it be more? also like i said its about 1/4" to 1/2" from bolting up. i did go ahead and order a spacer from a local trick trucks shop. i was told superlift made it and it is 1" thick. would 1 inch be enough to make up my half inch distance plus flex or am i going to have to get a new shaft or have mine modified to make it work?
 
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