• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

New 86 HMMWV owner. Took delivery Sunday after 3 months wait- won't start

Dickster000

New member
7
0
1
Location
St.J Vermont
Hi- love this site. Upon receipt I have charged battery's and have 24.8 volts. Battery's appear good. After troubleshooting I have fuel to injection pump but none to individual injectors. I did get about a pint in 30 seconds. Shut off solenoid appears to be working. I can hear it cycle. I know it ran for the guys at gov planet. I saw the video. Any thoughts or things to check would be great. Thanks
 

tim292stro

Well-known member
2,118
39
48
Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
Diagnostic terms:

Won't crank - turning key does not cause starter motor to turn the engine
Cranks but won't start - tuning key causes engine to spin, but not to turn over

Wait light coming on? It still has glow plugs - do those work?
 

Dickster000

New member
7
0
1
Location
St.J Vermont
Thanks

cranks but won't start. No song of exhaust or fuel running through injectors

wait light comes on and clears after 5-10 seconds. Test light indicates power to glow plugs
 

tim292stro

Well-known member
2,118
39
48
Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
Should be able to loosen the injector lines and purge them. Might just have air in there. Give your starter 10 second cranks, and 30 second breaks. When you get flow, tighten them back up and try again.
 

tim292stro

Well-known member
2,118
39
48
Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
Here's my thinking: If you have power to the shut-off solenoid, fuel to the IP, but none to the injectors, either you have an air leak or your IP is has a problem - of course GP may have also run the fuel system dry which would appear like an air leak.

Priming the IP and lines out to the injectors should get you by an air leak for a short time, and would fix the symptoms of the system being run dry - if the issue reoccurs it's probably an air leak, and you can track that down by torquing the fittings and replacing seals.

If you're not able to re-prime the fuel system then this will take more work - if the lift pump is getting fuel to the IP but your injector lines stay dry, they your cut-off solenoid or the IP are the likely culprits. You say you believe the cutoff solenoid is working, so it would point to the IP. Either way if it goes this direction, you're going to have to pull so stuff apart, so you might as well install a reman Stanadyne IP with a new solenoid at this point.

If you crack open your injector lines and fuel comes out, your injectors are the likely culprits. Injectors can be tested and cleaned - if your individual injector lines are flowing fuel, it would be good to do this. Replacement injectors are not that expensive, should be $400 or less for all 8.


If you do all of these purges, primes, and checks and it still doesn't want to turn over - if there is "smoke but no fire" and your block is cold to the touch, your glow plugs may just be shot. For your own piece of mind, you can pull the plug wires and test the glow plugs for continuity to the engine block. If any show open or infinite resistance, they are burned up - again replacements are not that expensive, and should be part of at least an annual maintenance regiment.

Of course doing these checks also reminds me that with an unknown engine on a new vehicle that may have sat for a long time in a field, check your air piping - critters of the furry kind have a habit of moving into confined spaces and blocking air flow. A tear down and visual inspection shouldn't take that long (maybe an hour or two max). You'd be surprised how little obstruction it takes to suffocate an engine...
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,268
3,893
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
No fuel at the IJ lines down at the injectors means fuel shutoff solenoid not energized. The pump gets fuel from the fuel pump that is manual on side if the engine....clicking you hear is very well the cold advance solenoid.
turn the key, plug and unplug the fuel cutoff connector, then you you should here it click on and off.
the cold advance is the ribbed connector on the top, fuel solenoid is off to the side.
 

Dickster000

New member
7
0
1
Location
St.J Vermont
Thanks a bunch guys. I'm going to give all This a shot. Tim292 mentioned repriming ip and injector lines. I can't find this in manual. Is there an instruction or method for this??
 

Dickster000

New member
7
0
1
Location
St.J Vermont
So to update-- tried numerous ideas from above. I pulled the cover to the fuel stop solenoid on the IP which was cycling as it should have been. Discovered the mechanical valve itself was stuck and cycled it a few times by hand --Put cover back on and she fired right up!! Great rig. Thanks for all the help
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks