New Coolant leak...I'm bummed...

[Asmoday]

So I was under the truck today checking on some items and found a coolant leak that has me dreading things to come.

I kept finding coolant at the very front of the oil pan which had me puzzled as to where it was coming from. I decided to get the super duper Surefire flashlight out and start the search for the source. It turned out to be difficult to trace but I finally found where it is coming from. The upper right side of the timing cover where it mates up to the block. It's where the coolant passage goes through from the water pump. The water pump was bone dry everywhere it mated up and nothing coming out of the weep hole. It looks like it is a steady weep around the whole area where it mates up to the block. Then it runs down the side of the block and collects at the very front of the oil pan where it mates up to the block.

So just how much hellish work am I looking at to fix the leak? Basically everything has to come off the front...timing chain, sprocket...etc. etc...correct?

Not happy about this one....

 

[Hasdrubal]

Check the TM's, there are only a few bolts that go through the water jacket that require thread sealer. If you're lucky and you have no coolant contamination of your oil you can just drain the coolant remove the particular bolt, thread seal it, re-install, fill coolant and you're done.

Worst case scenario; drain coolant, remove shroud, fan, both alts, ps pump, all mounting brackets, pulley. Remove water pump mounting plate, thoroughly clean all mating surfaces of old sealer, apply anaerobic sealant, apply thread sealant to bolts, re-install in reverse order.

While you have it all dissassembled, depending on your mileage, you might want to consider changing the water pump now. Mine went at 144 000 miles. Also, whilst it is not shown in the TM's, there is a civvy gasket that you can use in place of the anaerobic sealant. Better sealing with less chance of an oil leak.

Although I had asked on this forum if such a gasket exists, nobody piped up so I went the TM advised route. A friend of mine who works on a lot of 6.2's afterwards told me he always uses this gasket. I wish I had known about it before I had to do mine. Even though I spent endless hours cleaning all mating surfaces and bolt threads (that no mechanic would have done so thoroughly)and basically did an aircraft grade job installing my waterpump, I have a small amount of oil seepage now at the top of the plate. Hindsights a @#*!*.

 

[Asmoday]

Thanks for the info. I don't think my leak is due to a bolt into the water jacket. I think it's just plain leaking around the water jacket where the timing cover mates to the block on the passenger side.

The civy gaskets are a great tip. I've never been fond of no gasket on sealing surfaces.

Does anyone know if I can leave the injector pump in place when I pull the timing cover off?

Thanks...

 

[allenhillview]

Just finished this pump in Sept. do the good job explained above clean,clean you'll do fine . I did the gasket,added a thin coat of sealer,a thin coat !!! let stand 10 min. then replace , do pump first seven bolts in back let seat an hour then finish torque . start then with backing plate,water necks ,thermostat,,all gaskets new make the ones on necks .22 thick, coat the same let
stand..................no leak for me. hope this helps? Be sure to follow TM on those coolant bolts.

 

[Hasdrubal]

You dont need to touch the injector pump when removing timing cover.

 

[319]

Asmoday, I had the same issue once with my M1009. Was a loose bolt. Tightened to spec and all was fine after that.
It's amazing how fasteners on that 6.2 can come loose!!