• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

New deuce with a torque rod problem

JRMITTS

New member
12
0
1
Location
RANCHO CORDOVA CA
Hi all.

I've been glued to this site ever since deciding to buy a MV several months ago, and I find it both informative and fascinating. How I got here is a story in itself. I think I may have some sort of addictive personality or something, as now I find myself constantly looking at the Gov Liq site for trucks, trailers, generators, etc. I think my favorite next thing will be a mobile kitchen. Pretty darn cool. Many thanks to all who have posted recommendations for recoveries and repairs, etc. This kind of information can't be found in the Technical Manuals (which I have downloaded and browsed).

So I win this truck at the Government Liquidations auction a while back and am anxiously awaiting the clearance of my first EUC (I realize this could take months, and it has in fact been at least three months so far).

Attached are pictures of the truck in question. It looks really good, and when I went to preview it, the GL rep accompanied me (they have had problems in the past with previewers and recoverers taking parts off of trucks that weren't theirs so now they accompany everyone. Kudos to GL for this practice), and indicated this truck looks as though it had just been rebuilt, very clean engine, interior, new paint new tires, etc. I feel pretty good about it, so far.

On to my issue. In the last picture you can see the lower right rear torque rod has somehow slipped off the bushing and allowed the rear axle to slip back about an inch and a half or two. I read Warthog's description of how he replaced a broken torque rod and it looks like a good alternative to the Tech Manual way of replacing one. In the fifth picture you can see the rear wheel (on the left) have slipped back to touch the mudflap.


I also considered the jury rig way of trying to press the torque rod back onto the bushing with some large c-clamps and then holding it together for the trip home (40 miles) with a muffler clamp or something, but am really uncomfortable with that idea.

So, I bought some new bushings and will press them. Can these be pressed on in the field by using a 10 ton bottle jack, a couple of pieces of 4x4 lumber and the weight of the truck (engine end), or will I need to take the parts to a shop with a real press. Also, would one of those 20 ton presses from Harbor Freight do the job. I recall a posting were the poster took all their torque rods to a shop and paid $200 for the work.


My apologies for being so long winded, I'll stop now.


Anyway, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks JRM
 

Attachments

DUG

Senior Chief/Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,799
72
48
Location
Mesquite, NV
PM Mark aka 100Dollarman. He has MANY, MANY extras. I picked up a couple from him to keep as spares. They have the bottom axle plate attached so if you were quick you could swap it out on site in 15 minutes.
 
Last edited:

pctrans

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,918
19
38
Location
Bradenton, FL
If it was ME, Provided you don't have to travel too far to get it home. Chain and binder the loose axle to the front axle, that way it can't go anywhere. When you get it home, either replace the whole torsion bar with a used one (plentiful), or have a new bushing pressed in. Out of 50 some deuces I've gone through, I've never had one do that, so I'm not thinking it is a normal issue.Or to play it on the safe side, have it trailered home and do your repairs.
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,775
227
63
Location
OKC, OK
I agree with pctrans. Just winch the axles together, chain or strap them and drive it home slowly. If 100dollarman has some and you can get it in time, just replace it.

I don't thing a 10ton bottle jack would do the trick.
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,390
2,440
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
Kenny had the same thing happen at Fl. ralley and he got it back on and used nylon straps and drove home a lot more than 40 miles.
 

Flyingvan911

Well-known member
4,709
158
63
Location
Kansas City, MO
My deuce already had 6 new torque bars on it when it went up for auction. I'm glad the Army did the work for me. 6 would be a pain if they were indeed all bad.
 

OldDominionIron2

New member
100
1
0
Location
Hampton, VA
I'm also for replacing it on site. Spray the nuts/bolts with PB blaster as soon as you get there and let it soak while you do the other stuff (check fluids, swap out batteries, etc.) A 3/4" ratchet with a 1 1/2" socket and a hammer will have that torque rod replaced in about 30 minutes. I had the same torque rod broken when I picked my truck up, but I trailered mine the 90 miles or so home and fixed it after ordering a new torque rod.
 

Clay James

Member
524
4
18
Location
Reno/NV
I saw that one, I was wondering who got it. I got one from that auction. Post better pictures of that truck when you get it. You really need to contact Battle Creek and get them to investigate your EUC. I got mine cleared and picked up my truck about a month ago.
 

chvyking

New member
4
0
0
Location
Martinez, CA
well it`s a small world i was just out there today for the first time and saw that very truck very nice. saw the rod sitting there off the axel. fist time posing on here great place to learn a lot of thing from, a lot of good people. Best idea i can come up with ( dont know if this will work could end up doing more damge not an expert) take a havey bottel jack some wood use opposite sied of axel as a stationary point put prussure on it till it goes back on. just a thought again not an expert could be wrong maybe some one more know how on this trucks will chime in. im a newb with no truck but hope to have one soon.:)
 
Top