Ok, the Durabak is ordered and most of the front is done with the foil backed gutter peel/seal stuff. Looks like I need one more roll. Going to finish the deuce tommorow as well. Painted the dash and door jams tan. Also got in most of the weather stripping, drivers door and rear upper and gate window seals. Gotta do the passenger side tommorow too.
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New M1009 CUCV owner!!
- Thread starter andytk5
- Start date
Finally got the flooring covered with the Durabak! Very cool stuff. I wil definitely being getting more to put down on the floor of the deuce.
Still have to paint the glovebox(i know) install rubber on the passenger door/window and do the a/c. Brackets for the compressor from NAP is like $230+.. Really?
Still have to paint the glovebox(i know) install rubber on the passenger door/window and do the a/c. Brackets for the compressor from NAP is like $230+.. Really?
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epartsman
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Take my advice as mine was ex fla national guard (I'm in Jax by the way) rustproof the undercarriage as mine is swiss cheese from the guard beach riding and I am still finding beach sand hidden in the frame, ontop of the tank, and cross members.Nice one.
On the Tan roll on bed liner CABELAS makes a TAN coating non skid for boats that might work TUFF COAT. Ive never used it but its got good reveiws.
Wow, thanks for that! I will be looking into that and report back. I also wondered how paint adheres to the standard roll on liner stuff? Haven't looked into that.
Thanks Blue, Honestly I was gunning for your truck as you had everything I wanted to do already done! Mild lift, a/c good looking paint. Lol, missed it by an inch! I just gotta figure out the left side a/c compressor mount and the rest is easy. Just glad it already has the 33" tires on it as this will be a frequent driver and drive on St. Aug beach ride.
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epartsman
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If the GEN1 light is lit while running you could have a bad alternator or a wiring/ ground issue.
Good idea on the rustproofing the bootom for the beach!
The gen1 light is lit until the engine revs over a certain rpm then goes dim or almost out. Have to check a little more with my meter to see output. The engine high idles for several mnutes then settles down also.
The gen1 light is lit until the engine revs over a certain rpm then goes dim or almost out. Have to check a little more with my meter to see output. The engine high idles for several mnutes then settles down also.
epartsman
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Higher rpms generate more power so if the alternator is marginal that is why that is happening. I wish the Body on mine was as nice as yours! I suggest you go through it and do a total PM. Fluids, filters, repack and check your front bearings etc. I have seen too many ignore the front end and loose a wheel. Check the posts of some of the other members. Even though the PO may have said he maintained it I would do it again myself as precaution. These vehicles are a few years shy of 30 so PM is only prudent.
good advice, just did my trailer bearings and rotors so no biggy. Actually have the deuce pulled up to do all its fuel/oil filters and change the engine oil today and check the drivetrain and axle fluids. Then I'll hit the blazer.
Wal-mart has the 5gal 15w40 rotella for $63.23 and advance auto price matched it by the way guys.
Wal-mart has the 5gal 15w40 rotella for $63.23 and advance auto price matched it by the way guys.
i wonder what 383 colored product could be used to mix into durabak or the like?
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Good thread, I am impressed with your energy. 
Lol, thanks! I had a thought about the a/c setup. I'd like to run a large vent out the radio opening and use the "knob" holes to put the fan speed and temp knobs sticking out? Might be cool. Just hate to move or chop up the orig mil stuff like blackouts etc..Good thread, I am impressed with your energy.
Need a cheap dash too!!
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I have my truck up on blocks with a 383 carc kit ready to go. The interior is out. Bench seat's gone and I am replacing with HMETT buckets. I have a box of extreme FatMat ready to go down tomorrow. I was surprised you painted the foil back instead of placing the rubber full floor mat back down on top of the membrane. How do you think the floor will take the wear...?
Sounds awesome man!
We will see how it goes. It definitely wont be as strong as laying down straight to the floorpans, but I don't paln to beat this interior either as this will be more of a beach toy. The stick on stuff really helped with the noise and vibration but the cab is still a little loud in that noise just bounces around so I am looking for some "lay in" all weather carpet. Maybe a cargo mat for the rear, 2 in front spots with a full width rear passenger mat. Just something to soften the noise.
bshupe
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Maybe Im just ignorant but wont the tan color on all sides of the interior be kind of hard on the eyes in the Florida sun?
Great looking truck all around!
My truck has the number plate behind the brush guard as well and it has numbers on it but I have no idea if they are the correct numbers for my area. You said that yours were correct, how did you know and/or find out they were the right ones?
Great looking truck all around!
My truck has the number plate behind the brush guard as well and it has numbers on it but I have no idea if they are the correct numbers for my area. You said that yours were correct, how did you know and/or find out they were the right ones?
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andytk5: Nice truck! 
bshupe: I live in Central FL and my M1009 interior is also painted desert. The light color of the paint isn't that bad on the eyes and it doesn't retain as much heat as darker colors do. The exterior is tri-color desert. The black and brown get super hot in the summer to the touch but the beige stays relatively cool. To drop the interior temperature, I roll down the driver's window and the back gate window and drive a couple of miles. That blows the heat out.
bshupe: I live in Central FL and my M1009 interior is also painted desert. The light color of the paint isn't that bad on the eyes and it doesn't retain as much heat as darker colors do. The exterior is tri-color desert. The black and brown get super hot in the summer to the touch but the beige stays relatively cool. To drop the interior temperature, I roll down the driver's window and the back gate window and drive a couple of miles. That blows the heat out.
Thanks! The tan isn't really an issue as much as the sun beaming in from my non-tinted windows.. I'm used to my "drug-dealer' tint on my everyday truck so this one kinda blows but it is on the list.
Far as I know the M1009 bridgeplate is supposed to be 2 3 3 4 and that is empty, laoded cross country, loaded highway, or combination. I could be wrong as that info was from a thread that was on here about bridgeplates. The numbers represent tons so 1 = 2000#"s. There 03 would be 6,000#'s with it's inside payload. The 4 would be with a light trailer and the C may be added to rep combo/towing or convoy I guess. Not well versed on that though. I'll try to find it for you.
Atennae update: Have an AB15 base, MS sections on order. May do the same for the deuce.
mr.travo
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GREAT THREAD! Keep the updates and pictures rolling in!
Small oil leak from under the harmonic balancer where the crossmember is nice and juicy with oil buildup and sludge.. Almost seems it is coming from the oil pan gasket? Maybe try and tighten the bolts a touch and see if that takes care of it.
A/c update. Waiting for NAP to get the correct evaporator box for under the dash before I can move forward on the install...still gotta fab some compressor brackets too.
Also have most of the parts for the mil antenna install ab15 and ms 116-118 sections and tip. Gotta make a plate for the ab15 to mount to the truck bracket then install my cobra, speaker and PA.. Hehe
A/c update. Waiting for NAP to get the correct evaporator box for under the dash before I can move forward on the install...still gotta fab some compressor brackets too.
Also have most of the parts for the mil antenna install ab15 and ms 116-118 sections and tip. Gotta make a plate for the ab15 to mount to the truck bracket then install my cobra, speaker and PA.. Hehe