New MEP-803A owner

[rml1708]

Hello,

New MEP-803A owner. It’s a December 2006 model. It has 33 hours on it. I have already installed the Fuse mod using the kloppk kit. It has year old Group 24 batteries that are taller than the Group 34 batteries. So much taller that the hold-down J hooks will not hold them in. I am going to make new threaded hooks to make it work. Starts right up after 10 seconds or so on Prime Run before the turn to start. I was a little shocked by how hot it runs, especially with that temp gauge that has that 180-to-240-degree swing in the gauge. At the time, I did not really know what the normal operating temperature should be. I think it settled in at about 190, which is correct according to the manual. But being the nube, I shut it off just in case.

The only thing I know I need to figure out is a fuel leak running out the left side onto the skid just below the fuel water separator. There is no indication that the leak is from the fuel water separator, as there is nothing on the bottom of the filter. Any suggestions on where to start looking would be nice.

Many of the postings here on Steel Soldiers talk about having a fuel pump as a spare item. So far, there is no place that lists them as available. Any suggestions on what to use as a spare would be appreciated.

Another thing I am having difficulty with is finding a source for the “#10-32 x 1/2" Hex - Unslotted Drive Indented Hex Washer Head Grade 18-8 Stainless Steel Machine Screws” I have a lot of rusted screws on the panels. The nuts and washers are not a problem.

And lastly, at least for the moment. I am using this generator on a lot that has no power and will be using it to run a large industrial NAPA compressor, plasma cutter, welder, and then a host of other 110-powered items, lights, mag drill, etc., etc. It is my understanding that I am to insert the ground rod, attach the ground rod to the ground lug on the generator, and then run the L1, L2, L3 and neutral lugs to my power board. I then need to make sure that the bonding strap is installed. Is this correct?

If my Generator is on a trailer, then I need to have a ground stud on the trailer with the ground rod hooked to it, and the ground lug on the generator hooked to this ground stud on the trailer. Do I understand this correctly? If I trailer mount this generator, I will be mounting it on an M116a2.

Thanks, Rob

 

[Guyfang]

Are you talking about a M116A2 trailer, or a MODIFIED M116A2 trailer. The modified trailer is, modified for the mounting of a generator set. As far as I know, only the M116A3 was modified. But I could be wrong.

 

[2Pbfeet]

Hello,

New MEP-803A owner. It’s a December 2006 model. It has 33 hours on it. I have already installed the Fuse mod using the kloppk kit. It has year old Group 24 batteries that are taller than the Group 34 batteries. So much taller that the hold-down J hooks will not hold them in. I am going to make new threaded hooks to make it work. Starts right up after 10 seconds or so on Prime Run before the turn to start. I was a little shocked by how hot it runs, especially with that temp gauge that has that 180-to-240-degree swing in the gauge. At the time, I did not really know what the normal operating temperature should be. I think it settled in at about 190, which is correct according to the manual. But being the nube, I shut it off just in case.

The only thing I know I need to figure out is a fuel leak running out the left side onto the skid just below the fuel water separator. There is no indication that the leak is from the fuel water separator, as there is nothing on the bottom of the filter. Any suggestions on where to start looking would be nice.

Many of the postings here on Steel Soldiers talk about having a fuel pump as a spare item. So far, there is no place that lists them as available. Any suggestions on what to use as a spare would be appreciated.

Another thing I am having difficulty with is finding a source for the “#10-32 x 1/2" Hex - Unslotted Drive Indented Hex Washer Head Grade 18-8 Stainless Steel Machine Screws” I have a lot of rusted screws on the panels. The nuts and washers are not a problem.

And lastly, at least for the moment. I am using this generator on a lot that has no power and will be using it to run a large industrial NAPA compressor, plasma cutter, welder, and then a host of other 110-powered items, lights, mag drill, etc., etc. It is my understanding that I am to insert the ground rod, attach the ground rod to the ground lug on the generator, and then run the L1, L2, L3 and neutral lugs to my power board. I then need to make sure that the bonding strap is installed. Is this correct?

If my Generator is on a trailer, then I need to have a ground stud on the trailer with the ground rod hooked to it, and the ground lug on the generator hooked to this ground stud on the trailer. Do I understand this correctly? If I trailer mount this generator, I will be mounting it on an M116a2.

Thanks, Rob

View attachment 947019

For the fuel leak, is this the original filter? If so, I would change it, as a 19 year old o-ring isn't likely to be in great shape. On the subject of fuel filters, I would change all of the fuel filters if you haven't already, including the final fuel filter and all three o-rings, due age of the rubber and the potential exposure to JP-8. However, I would start by cleaning out the fuel tank, or at least checking that it is clean, before changing fuel filters. I think that when the tank is drained is a great time to replace the well nuts with brass bulkhead fittings. There's a thread on the site that has great instructions from @Light in the Dark https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-803a-fuel-drain-well-nut.190358/
I would check that the hose fittings on the filter housing are not leaking as a start. For finding weeps that I don't seem to be able to see, I try to clean and dry everything in the area, and then run the engine for a bit and use a paper towel to try and find the unseen weeps. An inspection mirror can help. My bet would be either a bad o-ring, or more likely a little debris in the flare fittings, or if it is not the original filter that there is an mis-seated seal or debris on the seal. If you haven't already read them, I'd recommend reading the threads on removing the original filter. For me, a chain wrench made short work of it.

There are several alternate fuel pumps that seem to come in and out of stock. If I were you I would do some searching on this forum; there's a whole thread here; https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-803a-fuel-pump-replacement.195657/#
I have bought a Carter version recently, P74018, which I believe is the modern version of the Airtex pump, but the original is still out there from surplus stores and on eBay. (Side note: I think that there's lots of great advice in various threads, so I think it is worth searching and reading around the generator forum.)

Fastenal, McMaster are my go to places for quality fasteners. Both stock the above screw size. I think that several bolt locations benefit from the 5/8" version.

Are you wanting 3 phase 208 on your lot, or 120/208, or 120/240? The wires differ and matter. Yes, a ground rod is a must in my book.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[Light in the Dark]

In addition to above, check for very small spray leaks/weeping out of the hose that connects the water seperator base, to the inline fuel filter. Its an often overlooked part. Its a cheap part to have on the shelf too, should it ever go on you

1/4" x 18" JIC 4F Swivel x JIC 4F Swivel SAE 100R16 Hydraulic Hose Assembly 5800 PSI NRP Jones | NRP Jones | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

1/4 x 18 JIC 4F Swivel x JIC 4F Swivel SAE 100R16 Hydraulic Hose Assembly 5800 PSI NRP Jones, NRP Jones, 1/4&quot X 18&quot JIC 4F X JIC 4F 5800NRP Jones,A150-04-604-604-18 ,

www.surpluscenter.com

Its the identical hose that is also used from the barb off the side of the engine block, up to the oil pressure sender... so put two on the shelf.

 

[Light in the Dark]

You should also check the fuel return line, you might have a leak anywhere in that line, and its dripping down to the skid level where the return enters a poly tube and goes back to the fuel tank. I would replace every inch of the return with Gates safety stripe if it were me.

 

[cstumpf750]

i recently went through replacing the fuel pump on my 803. End up getting it from Napa. Here is my thread with all the details and photos. The other thread that was posted is old and the specific pump listed is no longer made. I had to have a longer piece of hard line made and cut out a bit of the perforated fan guard to make the new pump fit as it was a bit longer, as well as getting adapter fittings, also from Napa.

MEP-803 fuel pump does not run

I just got one of these units From Govplanet. It ran in the videos in the listing. This is my first time with one of these. After I put batteries in it, it cranked and started right up, but died about 30 seconds later. I checked all the basic stuff and quickly figured out the fuel pump was Not...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[rml1708]

The trailer I intend to put my generator on is an M116A1. It has the M37 5-bolt wheel pattern. It had the two generators on it in a previous life.



I wish to remove the front board and install the M116A3 toolbox on this trailer. The Toolbox I am looking for is this one (picture swiped from the GMG website).

 

[Guyfang]

OK, that's an old, old generator trailer. The trailer should have another Data plate on it that tells you what PP, (Power Plant) it is. Anything concerning the Mods made to the trailer are listed in another TM. It too, might also had a tool box mounted on the front of the bed. Some even had fuel tanks mounted under the bed, depending on the PP type.