New owner in Arizona.

travistodd1

Member
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10
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Location
Camp Verde, Arizona
Hello and thank you for accepting me into the group. I am new to military vehicle ownership and will likely need a great deal of assistance in the near future from those in this group. I have wanted to purchase an M35A2 or some type of variant for some time now, I just never had the money at the right time or the vehicle of interest was not available near me. Fortunately, I was recently able to get my hands on a 1972 AM General M817. The truck has sat for around 15 years after the previous owner parked it and it would not start after. Hopefully, with some effort, I can bring it back and enjoy this piece of American history with my family for years to come.
 

M35fan

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Welcome to the forum, from Alabama. Good luck with getting your truck running, I'm sure there are many here who can offer some great advice.
 

waayfast

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Lake Fork,Idaho
Welcome to the site from Salmon River Country.
It's actually a good thing to start out kinda rough getting that first one home. One wouldn't want to get spoiled with the first one. Good training for all the others you'll be dragging home.

Oh, yes---there WILL be others, LOL!!
 

Karl kostman

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Fargo ND
Congrats you picked a good truck to start with. Teh 800 series trucks are simple to work on the 250 Cummins is a very reliable solid engine and if its in good shape will provide good service for as long as you will need it. One thing I will tell you is that a set of manuals for this truck will help you beyond any words in developing an understanding of the truck operation and the thoughts behind it (NO I dont sell TMS) the manuals are simple and easy to ready and generally very well written, they sound boring but you will grow to love them! Congrats again and wish you great luck with your new truck!
Karl
 

fasttruck

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Location
Mesa, AZ
M817s are simpler to work with than a M 929 which replaced it. Does this truck have a winch ? In any event don't make a move without the pubs: TM 9-2320-260- 10, 20, 20P and LO which are the operators manual, organizational maintenance manual and parts book, and lubrication order. There are over 40 grease points on this truck. neglect them at your own peril. Grease is cheap parts are expensive. Be guided accordingly.

It has been suggested elsewhere on this site that the tailgate is designed to be used as a spreader by backing up into a pile you just dumped. This is an excellent way to bend the gate and damage the seals in the hydraulic cylinders that raise the body. The TM describes how to rig the gate to spread gravel by chaining the gate to limit how far it will open. Read the reading.
 

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travistodd1

Member
46
10
8
Location
Camp Verde, Arizona
M817s are simpler to work with than a M 929 which replaced it. Does this truck have a winch ? In any event don't make a move without the pubs: TM 9-2320-260- 10, 20, 20P and LO which are the operators manual, organizational maintenance manual and parts book, and lubrication order. There are over 40 grease points on this truck. neglect them at your own peril. Grease is cheap parts are expensive. Be guided accordingly.

It has been suggested elsewhere on this site that the tailgate is designed to be used as a spreader by backing up into a pile you just dumped. This is an excellent way to bend the gate and damage the seals in the hydraulic cylinders that raise the body. The TM describes how to rig the gate to spread gravel by chaining the gate to limit how far it will open. Read the reading.

Thank you for the information. I am waiting on the title before I go to the trouble of bringing it home. I am suspecting (hoping) the fuel shut off valve failed. I appreciate the information on the service manuals. I fully intend to go over this thing with a fine tooth comb, full service and all. I doubt I will be using this for any hard work, more likely a play toy than anything.
 
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eaw46

Active member
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Regina Sask Canada
Welcome there are many in AZ that have information and a willingness to help you, Get to know the TMs and ask questions here, The search function will help you a lot many issues have been dealt with before and the info is available here.
 

fasttruck

Well-known member
1,154
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Location
Mesa, AZ
If the electric solenoid that compromises the fuel shut off is in operational you can run the engine by turning in the bypass screw on the front of the solenoid and either slave the truck or pull start it. Once running it will run until it is out of fuel even if there are no batteries in the truck. Put it in high gear and stall the engine to shut the truck off. The by-pass screw is normally turned all the way out (counterclockwise) for normal operation. Turn it in and the screw will hold the fuel valve open. doesn't turn too much. If too tight to turn by hand a slotted screwdriver or a pair of plyers will do. If you disturb the "emergency" shut off in the middle of the dashboard the engine will shut off but it will be necessary to go under the hood and reopen it by hand as it does not reopen when the knob is pushed in like a deuce does. Attached pic shows PT fuel pump detail as used in a 809 truck. Emergency fuel shut off valve is on top of fuel solenoid partially obscured by the line going to the air pump which is to the left of the PT fuel pump itself. Read the reading.
 

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fasttruck

Well-known member
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Location
Mesa, AZ
Ops! posted 2 pics of the same thing: the emergency fuel shut off valve. Attached is one that better illustrates the emergency by-pass screw. If the truck cranks and does not start with the bypass screw in it may need to be primed. The Operators' Manual describes how to do this. A dump truck has 2 fuel tanks but the engine only runs on one at a time. There is a quarter turn selector valve on the cab floor by the handbrake that determines which tank the engine feeds from. Make sure there is fuel in the selected tank. The Operators' Manual also described this valve. On a 50 year old truck these valves are known to develop air leaks. There are threads in the "5 ton & up" forum on how to rebuild these valves. There is also a "fuel left & right" switch on the dashboard. As there is only 1 fuel gauge, the selector determines which one is being monitored. It does not change which tank the engine is feeding from.
 

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fasttruck

Well-known member
1,154
331
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Location
Mesa, AZ
Another cause of "I won't start" problems is a clogged fuel filter/water separator which is mounted under the left front fender. The engine will not start until there is fuel in the injector pump. Another way to prime it if compressed air is available is to remover the end valve from a tire inflator. Take one of the screws out of the fuel gauge sender in the tank that has fuel and is set on the selector valve in the cab. Place the tuber from the inflator over the screw hole and lightly pressurize the tank. 2-3# will push fuel up to the pump and hopefully the engine will start. This procedure is not described in the applicable TM.
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

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Welcome Aboard :D

Find a bunk, stow your gear, and prepare to get underway :driver:

You're already getting some good advice from those who are replying. You'll find lots of good people here with tons of good experience and knowlege.... and some good humor too.

Again, WELCOME !
 

travistodd1

Member
46
10
8
Location
Camp Verde, Arizona
I have downloaded all the service manuals now so I can take them with me. I went up and checked a few things out on it. The right fuel tank has been unhooked. Oil shows no contaminants and much to my surprise, the batteries seem good. My only main concern is coolant tank was empty and had quite a bit of rust scale in it. Not sure what is going on there but hopefully its not serious. On a side note, the kids love it. The wife is not a huge fan but she ...20200302_184741.jpg
 

travistodd1

Member
46
10
8
Location
Camp Verde, Arizona
Ops! posted 2 pics of the same thing: the emergency fuel shut off valve. Attached is one that better illustrates the emergency by-pass screw. If the truck cranks and does not start with the bypass screw in it may need to be primed. The Operators' Manual describes how to do this. A dump truck has 2 fuel tanks but the engine only runs on one at a time. There is a quarter turn selector valve on the cab floor by the handbrake that determines which tank the engine feeds from. Make sure there is fuel in the selected tank. The Operators' Manual also described this valve. On a 50 year old truck these valves are known to develop air leaks. There are threads in the "5 ton & up" forum on how to rebuild these valves. There is also a "fuel left & right" switch on the dashboard. As there is only 1 fuel gauge, the selector determines which one is being monitored. It does not change which tank the engine is feeding from.
I don't know much about what originally happened. It came with a property a gentleman purchased and he does not want it. It was said to have been driven to its resting spot which I believe because of how and where it is parked. The previous owner went to move it and it would not start. A "mechanic" came out to work on it and left it unfinished. It looks like the shut off was partially disassembled, right tank completely unhooked, new fuel line run from the left tank to the selector then a new screw on type fuel filter replaced the original canister. I just don't think they ever finished up or possibly knew what they were doing in the first place...
 
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