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New Southern CUCV projects....

wallew

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Location
San Angelo, Tx USA Planet Earth
David,

I LOVE that Naval Blue. I want to paint my 1991 GMC Suburban exactly that color. Can you post the paint codes you used.

And if you don't mind me asking, APPROXIMATELY what would fixing the rockers ADD to the paint job cost? My M1009 is pretty much a twin to that one. Low miles but rockers need replacing. And then paint. But I'm down in Texas. So it's a non-starter to have you do it - the transport alone would kill me. Now if you were down here...

Plus I'd LOVE to give you my M1028A2 for some body work (both doors) and the corner of the cab, passenger side need work. I'd kill to find TWO doors to just swap out, but that hasn't happened. I could go to a yard locally and might find some replacements, but I'd love to do the transaction with a SS member. Ah well...

LOVE YOUR WORK. Wish you were closer.
 

82ABNMP

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Winston Salem NC
David,

I LOVE that Naval Blue. I want to paint my 1991 GMC Suburban exactly that color. Can you post the paint codes you used.

And if you don't mind me asking, APPROXIMATELY what would fixing the rockers ADD to the paint job cost? My M1009 is pretty much a twin to that one. Low miles but rockers need replacing. And then paint. But I'm down in Texas. So it's a non-starter to have you do it - the transport alone would kill me. Now if you were down here...

Plus I'd LOVE to give you my M1028A2 for some body work (both doors) and the corner of the cab, passenger side need work. I'd kill to find TWO doors to just swap out, but that hasn't happened. I could go to a yard locally and might find some replacements, but I'd love to do the transaction with a SS member. Ah well...

LOVE YOUR WORK. Wish you were closer.

Thanks Wallew! The Paint code is SW6244"Naval". The paint color is darker than these photos as they were taken when it was still wet and in full sun. This morning I came out and it was some darker and flatter. The rockers are tricky. The patch panels are cheap but the time to install them is expensive. It depends on the shop rate per hour, but figure 10 hrs to do both sides with bodywork but...without prime and paint.

David
 
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85CUCVtom

Active member
712
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Location
Lakewood, Ohio
Really nice job! I like the blue.

Speaking of replacing rocker panels. I was quoted $250 a side including parts by the body shop across the street from my house. He does nice work and side he would do it on the weekend as a side "cash" job.
 

82ABNMP

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Winston Salem NC
Really nice job! I like the blue.

Speaking of replacing rocker panels. I was quoted $250 a side including parts by the body shop across the street from my house. He does nice work and side he would do it on the weekend as a side "cash" job.
That is a VERY good price!

David
 

wallew

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San Angelo, Tx USA Planet Earth
There is a body shop I'm considering that charges $45 an hour. IF they estimate 10 hours, then I consider that a great deal. Probably an additional couple of hours per side, then the over all cost would be around $650 for both sides. I will do my own painting, so that's no problem or added expense.

Thanks for that paint code.
 

82ABNMP

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
556
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28
Location
Winston Salem NC
There is a body shop I'm considering that charges $45 an hour. IF they estimate 10 hours, then I consider that a great deal. Probably an additional couple of hours per side, then the over all cost would be around $650 for both sides. I will do my own painting, so that's no problem or added expense.

Thanks for that paint code.

Yep, that's a very fair shop rate for "resto" work.

David
 

jwtirrell

New member
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Location
Rockville, MD
New owner here - Great Job with the truck.

Two problems out of the box, one electrical (high beams would not work properly due to a grounded wire) and the speedo. Dave noticed it before I picked it up, and replaced the speedo cable, but the guage is just not reading properly.

Almost immediately I took it on a 1000 mile (round trip total) journey to Michigan and back for New Years. Truck ran great!!!

This is one noisy beast though - I am looking at LMC for some of the precut sound and heat insulation along with carpeting. The rhino lining is nice, but is not much of a sound deadener (I have seen it recommended elsewhere for that purpose and I can tell you it does not cut down on noise much).

Also, the mounting holes on the side, both the ones that go into the cab and the 4 that go into the body panel create a bit of wind noise as well, and of course engine noise too. These are not complaints, just observations. My intention is to turn this beast into a comfortable weekend driver as well as road warrior for camping etc.

I am trying to get some opinion on using the LMC custom cut insulation versus something like Dynamat (expensive!!).

MPG report - I got between 17 (using 4wdH on an icy snowy portion) and 17.8 mpg on the trip. I did notice the tires were low (30 PSI instead of 35 PSI). I am thinking that with them at 35 PSI that should give a nice boost in MPG (maybe another 1 MPG).

I am curious to know the wieght of the cab top and how hard it is to remove and reinstall? Anyone come up with a good system for doing this as one person job? Also, any thoughts on which online retailer to use for replacement seats, I have found a couple of place that sell upgraded seats that are supposed to work in this year of truck (heated and power seats a real nice upgrade, any thoughts)

I have to thank Dave Roth and South CUCV - I love the truck. It looks great, runs great, and was the perfect Christmas gift (thanks to my wife!!)
 
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wallew

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San Angelo, Tx USA Planet Earth
For about $140 plus s&h you can get 100 sq ft of FAT MAT to put on the inside of the truck. PLUS I also used it to quiet the clatter of the 6.2L engine. Here's a thread I wrote about doing that first. Then I would put either carpet or rubber flooring (my first choice).

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?37944-Hood-insulation-install

there are two pix on that post with the first pix showing the Fat Mat installed under the hood and the second pix is of the LMC Trucks insulation pad that I added OVER the Fat Mat. It did make a huge difference in engine noise.


And here's the link to Fat Mat's 100 sq ft page -

http://www.fatmat.com/bulk/fatmat/100.html

I have found that their product is as good a dyna mat but much cheaper.

Here is the LMC Truck page that sells the under hood insulator -

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/bzc/full.aspx?Page=28

still $40 plus s&h

Get your original seats recovered professionally and ADD the heat and vibration if you want. Another choice would be to find Suburban seats of the same vintage and have them recovered - looks correct but you can adjust the seat back manually. Electric seats can be ok, but they are an expensive choice that you will end up fixing at some point.

just my .02
 
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Danger Ranger

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Location
Roland, IA
All:

I am the buyer/soon to be owner of the Navy (when it's painted) M1009. Can't wait!

Dave has been great!

Here are some of my ideas that I am throwing out for comment from the group. A list of things I might like to do after Dave finishes the restoration. Also just some general questions about the truck thrown in there.

How many gallons is the gas tank? I am just curious about the range of the vehicle. I am figuring on 20+ mpg.

Anyone every install 4 point belts? Pros/Cons, just thinkning they will looking cool on the front seats.

Anyone ever install should belts in the rear? Since they currently only have lap belts I am just thinking the upgrade might improve safety.

I am really interested in getting a roll bar and soft top for the rear (with the hardcover removed). Anyone do this so that the hardcover can still be put on over the roll bar? Pros and cons?

How hard is it to remove the hard top and put it back on? Two man job, or just not worth it?

AC is big one...anyone install AC on one of these?

Same for power windows - hey I know it 's not original, but this thing would rock wtih power windows and a remote starter, can you even do that on a diesel?

What about installing a turbocharger (or supercharger)? How much does this affect gas mileage and how much does it improve performance? Not that I am going to be any Camaros off the line but I thought it might improve the acceleration a bit.

Anyway - these are all post restoration ideas. Can't wait to see it all painted. As soon as that is done I am making that photo my profile pic.

I am ex-navy which I why I picked blue instead of green. GO NAVY!
Sounds like you have a lot of reading and searching to do on the site before he is done... better get to it.
I wouldn't bother with the power windows, but hey, its yours. AC would be neat, good luck. Turbo is what you would be looking for, better do some research on the difference there...turbo kits can be had in various forms. Read up and you will learn. Good lookin truck, keep us posted in a new thread.
 

jwtirrell

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Location
Rockville, MD
Thanks

I had actually seen your photos before while doing research on this issue. I don't suppose you didn't a sound check with just the fat mat and before the LMC insulation was put it. Just wondering which one made a bigger difference.
 

Midlifer

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Location
Moorestown, NJ
New to this forum and new to CUCVs, (thinking of buying one) but not that new to sound deadening. Fatmat, Dynamt and the like are vibration dampers, and you should use them as a first layer and cover 25-50% of the sheet metal. Then lay down an isolating layer of foam and finish off with a layer of Mass Loaded Vinyl. This is a heavy vinyl that is what really blocks sound.

The website www.sounddeadenershowdown.com goes into this in a lot of detail. I followed their recommendation when i redid my old Chevy truck's interior and am very satisfied with the result. It cut both road and engine noise significantly.

Nice Blazer btw and I will be calling Dave to discuss a potential resto if/when I find a good candidate truck.
 
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