New To Me Engine, Won't Start

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helobravo

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M1009. I removed the motor due to an issue with the block. It ran perfect.
I bought a long block. I was told it had 9x000 miles on it and was running fine when removed.
I inspected the bottom end, made sure everything went around like it should and felt like it should. Everything seems fine.
The engine will not start.
The timing gear "dots" are lined up.
The IP was taken off my old motor and was working great.
It's been bleed by the book.
It's getting fuel to the cylinders.
The glow plugs are getting juice and ohm out to 1.5 ohms.
The IP timing mark is lined up with the mark on the engine.
I cannot even get it to start by putting diesel in the manifold or spraying ether.
There is no smoke when cranking.
All I can think is its an internal timing issue, but I cannot imagine what. The engine was not taken apart.
Going back over my other thread, a poster said that there's a round and an oblong hole on the IP gear.
I guess if no better ideas, I'll check that tomorrow.
Any help appreciated, I'd really like to get on the road again. I'm going insane. :drool:
There is a pic of the gears in my other thread here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?187687-6-2-IP-timing&p=2209764&highlight=#post2209764
 
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cucvrus

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The engine will not start on starting fluid only. Pouring diesel down the intake will not start the engine either. The heat glow plugs and sprayed fuel will ignite the engine. I think you have air in the system. Start at the fuel filter and go forward from there. Open all the nuts on the delivery nozzles and crank the engine over with the glow plugs out until you see 8 wet nozzle nuts. tighten the nozzle nuts. Get the glow plugs operational and attempt to fire up the engine. The heated glow plugs and the sprayed fuel should be all you need to get it started. Without glow plugs or fuel nothing is going to happen. Stop spraying either. Bad deal. Good Luck Be Safe.
 

helobravo

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The engine will not start on starting fluid only. Pouring diesel down the intake will not start the engine either. The heat glow plugs and sprayed fuel will ignite the engine. I think you have air in the system. Start at the fuel filter and go forward from there. Open all the nuts on the delivery nozzles and crank the engine over with the glow plugs out until you see 8 wet nozzle nuts. tighten the nozzle nuts. Get the glow plugs operational and attempt to fire up the engine. The heated glow plugs and the sprayed fuel should be all you need to get it started. Without glow plugs or fuel nothing is going to happen. Stop spraying either. Bad deal. Good Luck Be Safe.
Thanks for the reply. I've bled the system and purged any air out of the filter. I am getting fuel to the nuts. A couple of tries with ether was just a last ditch effort to get it to crank.
 

richingalveston

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if you cannot find a compression test tool, I have one. I am out of town until Monday but I can mail it to you. it has an adaptor that goes in the glow plug hole. you test it with the starter and the glow plugs out.
install the tool, connect gauge and turn it over a couple times to get a reading on the gauge.
do this for all cylinders.
I seriously doubt it is a compression issue. In order for compression to not start the truck it would have to have no compression in more than half of the cylinders or very bad compression in all of the cylinders. even then it would stumble and fire on the good cylinders.
you can feel compression with your thumb over the glow plug hole. you cannot tell if it is good but you know it is there. just tells you the crank or piston connecting rods are not broke.
most likely the ip is not timed properly.
if the dots on the cam gear and crank gear were not lined up you would have valves hitting the cylinders,
 

cucvrus

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All lines are squirting fuel. With plugs out I have diesel mist. The glow plugs are getting 12 volts. I don't get it. It's Corona time......
Glow plugs that are dead can get 12 volts. While you have the glow plugs out check them with a short wire and a battery. Only a split second if you ground the threads of the glow plug to the wire on negative and touch the spade on the positive. Put a drop of oil on each one. It will make smoke in a split second if they are working. Do not glow them long. I have had them blow out. Not good. I think getting an eyeball on them beats every other method out there. It takes about 15 minutes to remove a set 10 minutes to test them and 15 minutes to put them back in. good Luck. Next report should be "I have it running". Have a Great Weekend. I am off for the weekend and enjoying other activities.
 

helobravo

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I was going over everything again today, to adjust IP timing marks one more time. I noticed I do have an issue with the IP.
Please don't be a stickler for terms...I looked in the TM and couldn't find the correct term for the part I'm going to post about.
On the passenger side, the lever that pushes in the "button" close to the bottom of the pump it not making contact with the "button" even when throttle is wide open. I compared it to a fresh rebuilt pump I got with the long block and it's definitely wrong. I am in the process of switching pumps now.
Thanks for useful input! I did order a compression tester....I have other old diesels and have needed one in the past, so even though I don't think it's compression, I'll have one.
 

helobravo

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I had to take time off for spring maintenance around the property, but rolled the Blazer back in the shop today.
I have 220 pounds of pressure in the cylinders. Of course, that's cold cranking since it still won't start.
I have 12 volts to the injector pump and still have fuel to injector nuts and return line.
One thing I found weird if my IP is warm to the touch....if that matters :shrugs:
Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k70fu_Towpo
 

cucvrus

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Injection pump. I don't think you said you had it rebuilt. I may have missed it I am multi tasking here. Did you ever check the glow plugs by pulling them out?
 

Matt5

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220psi So the starter or motor is shot... like... should be over 300 at the LEAST... 400+ is even better...

Not sure what "cold cranking" is when doing a compression test... unless you washed out the cylinders is what you are trying to say?

Put a few drops of oil in each one and retest... but like, a diesel aint gona start at 220psi.

Motor is also turning slow it sounds...

I mean crap... a 350 is like what... 150-175psi in a *Gas* engine lol you have 220 in a diesel? RIP
 

richingalveston

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what method are you using to do a compresion test. you need to pull the ip wire, pull all glow plugs so you can get good speed on the starter and then test one cylinder at a time. make sure the injectors are torqued to the right spec and have the washers in place. the engine should only need about 5 or 6 revolutions for each cylinder test. each cylinder should give you about 425 to 435 psi.
 

helobravo

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south east louisiana
220psi So the starter or motor is shot... like... should be over 300 at the LEAST... 400+ is even better...

Not sure what "cold cranking" is when doing a compression test... unless you washed out the cylinders is what you are trying to say?

Put a few drops of oil in each one and retest... but like, a diesel aint gona start at 220psi.

Motor is also turning slow it sounds...

I mean crap... a 350 is like what... 150-175psi in a *Gas* engine lol you have 220 in a diesel? RIP
What I mean is I cannot test the compression on a warmed up engine since mine does not start. I believe the TM says to warm the engine up to check.
If 220 will not start the engine, I got screwed. If I did, I'd be relieved to know it, I'n tired of messing with this "simple" remove and replace.
The truck is not smoking out the exhaust and the the oil looks normal, so I have a hard time believing the rings are gone.
 
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