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New to this M1009

James Suitcoat

New member
10
11
3
Location
Indiana
Been coming to this site for research a few years now and decided the price was right on a Blazer.

I have an 89 tbi (they call it a v10 instead of a K5) and now this big brother.

This will be a long haul project and I will keep coming back to the forums when I run into trouble.

IMG_4163.jpeg47CFD62E-E37B-44C2-AE8F-74A8E3E059D9.jpeg
 

dougco1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
819
548
93
Location
Cooperstown NY
Been coming to this site for research a few years now and decided the price was right on a Blazer.

I have an 89 tbi (they call it a v10 instead of a K5) and now this big brother.

This will be a long haul project and I will keep coming back to the forums when I run into trouble.

View attachment 919384View attachment 919387
Welcome to the site:
Both your rides look great.
 

James Suitcoat

New member
10
11
3
Location
Indiana
I want to find the history of my truck and have seen a few posts about this but they are terribly old. I have the vin and a bumper number but do not know if that is original.

The last owner believed it spent most of its time in AZ before moving onto the midwest.
 
Last edited:

James Suitcoat

New member
10
11
3
Location
Indiana
IMG_4314.jpegToday I swapped the sending unit in the back of the block under the air filter housing with a new one and still got the intermittent “red oil pressure light” on the dash - once the truck was warmed up (and only at idle)

Do I trust the light?

Well, this was the main reason it was sold.

If I speed up the idle it may go away, but it might leave me stranded if indeed I have low oil pressure.

The plan now is to put a mechanical oil gauge which I will tap in from the spare inlet (plug) on the bottom of the block near the oil filter and cooler lines.

I would like to also replace the oil pump/screen and inspect the bearing. Also replace the harmonic balancer even though that seems to be a 6.5 weakness not the 6.2.

my garage at home hates me.

I already changed the oil and filter after dumping 1/2 a bottle of seafoam in the crankcase. And changed the fuel filter with the OEM style one. I may do the screw on swap, but I might also do a sight glass style filter.
 
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adf5565

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
335
608
93
Location
Tioga, PA
Before you go through the trouble of installing another gauge I’d buy something like this to test while the vehicle is stationary. Especially if you swapped the sender and the light still comes on you may have motor wear issues that need to be resolved before you get too far into things.

I’d pull the sender off and hook this up and see what it shows.

 

James Suitcoat

New member
10
11
3
Location
Indiana
Before you go through the trouble of installing another gauge I’d buy something like this to test while the vehicle is stationary. Especially if you swapped the sender and the light still comes on you may have motor wear issues that need to be resolved before you get too far into things.

I’d pull the sender off and hook this up and see what it shows.

Thats a great idea.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
906
623
93
Location
Rochester NY
You already changed the sender, just pull it back out and with a few brass fittings and a TEE you can have both the light and gauge hooked up from the same port. Also what oil did you use? I've never used Sea Foam but that could've thinned out the oil some. If it is a little low on oil pressure I wouldn't hesitate to run straight 30W in it. That's not a cure for worn out parts but it can give you time to locate a replacement engine and rebuild that while still having the truck drivable.
 
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