Newbie needs some transmission repair advice, please

gringeltaube

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Installed Barrman's Top Section early this morning, and took her for a drive at first light. No change.
Sure - and I knew it, but didn't want to discourage you...

Pulling the MS and disassembling it is not a problem if you have- or can borough a good lock ring pliers set and a (small) shop press. Eventually a bearing puller also, if the output bearing doesn't come off even after some heat-gun treatment.

If you bought a takeout transmission, chances are that you need to rebuild it anyway. Yours seems to be very low mileage, so I would try to fix what's wrong there, first, instead of spending money buying unknown, prob. worn-out parts.
 

Eracer46

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Sure - and I knew it, but didn't want to discourage you...

Pulling the MS and disassembling it is not a problem if you have- or can borough a good lock ring pliers set and a (small) shop press. Eventually a bearing puller also, if the output bearing doesn't come off even after some heat-gun treatment.

If you bought a takeout transmission, chances are that you need to rebuild it anyway. Yours seems to be very low mileage, so I would try to fix what's wrong there, first, instead of spending money buying unknown, prob. worn-out parts.
Agreed, gringeltaube. We will know what we have if we repair this one. Is the sequence to tear it down and inspect, and then order needed parts, or just order the new synchros today? Do you have a supplier you trust to send me yellow ones and not copper ones? Thank you.
 

gringeltaube

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Is the sequence to tear it down and inspect, and then order needed parts...
Yes.
Do you have a supplier you trust to send me yellow ones and not copper ones?
Not too long ago, our fellow member Tom Bauer (@m-35tom) used to have (and sell) all of the parts involved. (I got some goodies directly from him).
Maybe contact him, first - after we know what exactly is needed.
Next I would try White Owl in Kinston NC (http://whiteowlparts.com/store/store.php?crn=222). Their prices seem to be very fair, although his synchros may be aftermarket, as well.
Also, Memphis Equipment had- or still has some NOS parts. Not sure what the situation is, today.
 

Eracer46

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Yes.

Not too long ago, our fellow member Tom Bauer (@m-35tom) used to have (and sell) all of the parts involved. (I got some goodies directly from him).
Maybe contact him, first - after we know what exactly is needed.
Next I would try White Owl in Kinston NC (http://whiteowlparts.com/store/store.php?crn=222). Their prices seem to be very fair, although his synchros may be aftermarket, as well.
Also, Memphis Equipment had- or still has some NOS parts. Not sure what the situation is, today.
Thank you, gringeltaube. I will Start with these folks, once we know what is needed.
 

cattlerepairman

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2nd high in mine goes in best when rolling very slowly. It often hangs when stopped, requiring multiple pressing-releasing of the clutch until it slides in and if rolling faster than walking speed it definitely needs a blip of the throttle before it will slide in.
 

Eracer46

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2nd high in mine goes in best when rolling very slowly. It often hangs when stopped, requiring multiple pressing-releasing of the clutch until it slides in and if rolling faster than walking speed it definitely needs a blip of the throttle before it will slide in.
Our 2nd high has always been a bit finicky, just like that, too, but this is much worse than that. No gear change (any gear) possible while in motion, and sometimes when stopped. Main Shaft coming out on Sunday night, for a good going-over....thank you, cattlerepairman!
 

frank8003

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no Hurst, it is spicer
This thing was built to run and move stuff
3 ton ammo sideways across plowed field and such
Kids in the old daze worked around the problems
 

frank8003

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Ha. Been wearing out my left knee trying! That is what pretty much confirms a bigger problem. There is no way to gently, seductively coerce, or hammer her into any gear. But thank you for the suggestion!
sort of unbelievable
Does thses cases have oil in them?
Whatever is in there drain that crap out and filter it thru something
Is there metal and what it and what is it?
Oh Golly, nobody hammered Her into gear did they? This is not a T72
 

Eracer46

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sort of unbelievable
Does thses cases have oil in them?
Whatever is in there drain that crap out and filter it thru something
Is there metal and what it and what is it?
Oh Golly, nobody hammered Her into gear did they? This is not a T72
Did that. Photos of metal-free sludge are earlier in this thread. Had 80-90 and changed to SAE30. No real difference — still same problem. Pulling Main Shaft Sunday. Synchros are copper not yellow, so after-market, but rest of case looks super clean. It is a dang mystery, but we will figure it out. Got hurricanes coming. Gotta go save people....!
 

Eracer46

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Did that. Photos of metal-free sludge are earlier in this thread. Had 80-90 and changed to SAE30. No real difference — still same problem. Pulling Main Shaft Sunday. Synchros are copper not yellow, so after-market, but rest of case looks super clean. It is a dang mystery, but we will figure it out. Got hurricanes coming. Gotta go save people....!

SOLVED!!!!

Remember that I am a Newbie, but learning FAST.

My super-mechanic friend Joey B came over tonight, and we were planning to pull the Main Shaft and inspect it. I offered for him to drive the Deuce before we started, so he could experience the shifting issue first-hand. Yup -- his first drive around our property confirmed the symptoms I have been reporting, but he also observed through the center hole in the floorboard that the WINCH driveshaft was turning, even though the Safety Gate was down and locked, SUPPOSEDLY in "Neutral." He disengaged the winch by lifting the gate and moving the shift lever forward no more than 1/4 inch, into true Neutral, and that was enough that the Safety Gate no longer would close. And the transmission then worked flawlessly! SO WE HAD A WINCH ENGAGEMENT LEVER LINKAGE MIS-ADJUSTMENT PROBLEM ALL ALONG. We now know that if the winch is engaged in the cab, then the truck won't shift when moving, and won't be shifted out of gear often either. Makes sense. Please let this be the take-away from this incident -- hope it helps someone in the future.

I do not know much about the winch brake, and will research the TM. That has something to do with this, too, we think. Thank goodness a buddy early-on pounded into my mind to always check the FRONT winch clutch whenever walking around the front of the Deuce, and ensure it is in the "OUT" position. That saved us.

THANK YOU TO ALL OF YOU WHO HELPED US THROUGH THIS. I REGRET THAT I WASN'T SMART OR EXPERIENCED ENOUGH TO KNOW THAT THE WINCH DRIVESHAFT SHOULD NOT HAVE BEEN TURNING.

I will return the top section of your transission, BARRMAN, in the next couple of days -- thank you very much for loaning it to me.

Enjoying a celebratory beer. Thanks again, everyone -Brian ERacer46
 

Mullaney

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SOLVED!!!!

Remember that I am a Newbie, but learning FAST.

My super-mechanic friend Joey B came over tonight, and we were planning to pull the Main Shaft and inspect it. I offered for him to drive the Deuce before we started, so he could experience the shifting issue first-hand. Yup -- his first drive around our property confirmed the symptoms I have been reporting, but he also observed through the center hole in the floorboard that the WINCH driveshaft was turning, even though the Safety Gate was down and locked, SUPPOSEDLY in "Neutral." He disengaged the winch by lifting the gate and moving the shift lever forward no more than 1/4 inch, into true Neutral, and that was enough that the Safety Gate no longer would close. And the transmission then worked flawlessly! SO WE HAD A WINCH ENGAGEMENT LEVER LINKAGE MIS-ADJUSTMENT PROBLEM ALL ALONG. We now know that if the winch is engaged in the cab, then the truck won't shift when moving, and won't be shifted out of gear often either. Makes sense. Please let this be the take-away from this incident -- hope it helps someone in the future.

I do not know much about the winch brake, and will research the TM. That has something to do with this, too, we think. Thank goodness a buddy early-on pounded into my mind to always check the FRONT winch clutch whenever walking around the front of the Deuce, and ensure it is in the "OUT" position. That saved us.

THANK YOU TO ALL OF YOU WHO HELPED US THROUGH THIS. I REGRET THAT I WASN'T SMART OR EXPERIENCED ENOUGH TO KNOW THAT THE WINCH DRIVESHAFT SHOULD NOT HAVE BEEN TURNING.

I will return the top section of your transission, BARRMAN, in the next couple of days -- thank you very much for loaning it to me.

Enjoying a celebratory beer. Thanks again, everyone -Brian ERacer46

Wow! Happy to hear that you discovered the problem - and it was an easy fix... All the new sounds in a new machine are difficult to diagnose all at once. On the bright side - next time it happens - you will know where to look right away :)
 
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