Newbie with an -803a

76shovel

Member
69
10
8
Location
Bunnell/FL
Hi all and thank you for having me on this site. since I moved to FL and so happened to be the week hurricane IRMA hit. I had to quickly learn how to live, being on a generator. As if the 1000 mile move wasn't stressful enough (not mention made the trip 5 different times) I had no job and running low on funds then to top it off most places only accepted cash cause most services were obviously out and all my money was in the bank back in Indiana. Coming from Indiana I had never experienced anything like this and was for sure a learning curve. Now that I am established with a good job and purchased a home I'm ready to start making sure when disaster hits again I will be better prepared for it. I first started looking at 30kw gen thinking I will be good cause more is better. then I found this site from a guy posting YouTube videos in Oregon I believe it was...by the way super great videos from a guy named Matt iirc. well as I read through the post I learned more isn't always better at least with a diesel gen. then I thought well a 15kw will work and then I actually thought about my usage and figured a 10kw would be perfect. so after watching some auction sites I decided to start bidding and try my luck. well my first attempt didn't go well as I got beat out of a power plant with 2 10kw units on it from Texas...sorry if it was someone on here...then I tried my luck and was successful in North Carolina on a unit with 587hr on it and was reset in 2005 I believe. once again sorry if it was someone on here. So again I start reading page after page of these post just loading myself with all the information everyone seems to have and now I'm worried that my stator will be burnt up or my crank will be broke at the flywheel and will be out. it is supposed to be delivered next Sunday as I found someone heading to Fort Bragg for their sons coming home deployment and is gonna bring it back for me...obviously for a price...lol. sorry to ramble on about this I'm just happy, excited and most of all nervous. I do have things in order to do the fuse and mov mods. I do have one question about the fuse...you think a 2.5 amp time delay fuse will be fine instead of the 3 and it needs to be a 600v fuse also, correct? thank you to all for all the help you offer to each newbie coming and going. once I get it home I will get some pics and try to figure out how to load them on...Thanks Again
 

Guyfang

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I don't think it will matter. It will just blow faster, that's all. Sometimes when you are trying to bleed the air out of the fuel system, you have to turn the engine over for longer time periods. In that case, the fuse might blow. Why don't a you just put the right fuse in?

There are more threads then you will ever be able to read here, about what to do when you get a new to you gen set. Stop worrying about might be wrong. Start working on getting filters, oil, coolest and the like, on hand, so you don't run around like crazy at the last moment. Inspect it closely before trying to start it. Look for missing parts, wire damage and that sort of thing. And the most important thing for you to do is READ THE OPERATERS TM. If you understand the how and why, it's easier to figure out problems.

Others will pop in here with good info, learned lesions, the hard way. Read, read, read.
 

76shovel

Member
69
10
8
Location
Bunnell/FL
I have the right fuse but also have 2.5 also and wasn't to sure so I thought I would ask. as for the filters I thought I would do a visual of the unit first before spending and doing. I have a well stocked NAPA store that carries the filters on hand, and is just a few minutes down the road. and if I have to order them then I will wait. I'm ready for it to be home and get it running, but also am patient enough if I have to wait then I will. I want this to be right and trust worthy. in fact I have started a check sheet for monthly run/test inspections so I can have a base line of now compared to later. I work maintenance and something I found very helpful is a sheet of things that happened and that didn't happen. when nothing is wrong is the time between when something is...lol. I have downloaded the TM's but I seen where there was a list but it wasn't a link and said all the tm's you will need. on the filters and parts sticky its there also but seemed like excerpts of tm's. I haven't read through all of what I have but I am working on it...I hate books but enjoy manuals. and I'm sure once I get to a spot where I need the correct TM I can search for it or someone might be willing to tell me the TM number
 

Light in the Dark

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Here are your manuals for this machine: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?175591-MEP-803A-All-the-TM-s-you-need

-10 is an operators manual
-24 is a technical troubleshooting manual
-24P is the exploded parts diagram manual

The last two are the most important. The first is important, only until you figure out how to properly set up and use the machine, then its just reference.

For the small cost (compared to your purchase price) I would change all fluids and filters, no matter what. That way its exactly what you want in it, and you know its all fresh. Hours dont mean much, if oils been in the machine 10 years...

Go slow, put in the quad fuse before you get too tempted to turn it over (if it doesnt have it already), and enjoy.
 

frank8003

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Last edited:

kloppk

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Some TM's for the 803 you ought to download so you have them on hand when needed.
TM 9-6115-642-10 is the Operators Manual
TM 9-6115-642-24 is the Maintenance and Troubleshooting manual for maintaining the set and diagnosing issues. Also has wiring diagrams.
TM 9-6115-642-24P is the Parts manual with all part numbers (except engine) and exploded diagrams
TB 11-6115-741-24 is the Field Sustainment and Maintenance manual. Has reset info as well as upgrades such as the Fuse Mod details.

Do not crank the set until you'e installed the fuse mod.

I'd highly recommend the "MOV mod" in conjunction with the Fuse Mod.
The Fuse mod alone only protects the stator but doesn't protect the Voltage Regulator. As a result you can burn out the voltage regulator with just the Fuse mod.
The MOV mod helps protect the voltage regulator from being damaged due to long cranking.

If you need a MOV just shoot me a PM and I'll mail you one. No charge.
 

76shovel

Member
69
10
8
Location
Bunnell/FL
I am for sure gonna change everything before i attempt to crank i just want to make sure i have a unit that checks out before i do crank. Once that is done then all fluids will be changed out. Light, thank you for the clarification on the manuals and yes the mod and mov will be completed before I turn the power switch let alone before i put batteries in it. I just want to take several days just going through and touching everything that way i become familiar with it and also might spot something of concern. As for the manuals I'm kinda OCD about them...they will get printed out and put in page protectors in a 3 ring binder. This way if i have smudgy fingers it wont get on the print and just wipe off the plastic sleeve. Just about all my manuals are like that. Well it will be home in a week and i have Sundays off. so im sure next Sunday I will be asking tons. Thank you in advance for all the help and again for all the help with the manuals.
 

frank8003

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You do not have to print everything at great expense.
An alternative is to open any TM in PDF form on your puter and click Ctrl and F at the same time and you get a pop up box top right.
Just put your nomenclature in there and it will take you right to the applicable parts of the TM or ANY PDF.
And NO, I do not know if that works on a phone.
 

76shovel

Member
69
10
8
Location
Bunnell/FL
Frank that is some good stuff...been reading for a while now. Kloppk i already ordered the mov's. Got 20 of them so i might as well send them out also if someone needs one. I also have an extra fuse holder as well. I noticed you been handing out the mov's for sometime. As a newbie I appreciate you doing that for everyone. Sure they are cheap but its also your time and effort to do good things for people you dont really know. Just goes to show the kind of people here on the site. Hope one I can be a resource of information as well Like alot of you on here
 

Tinstar

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Hi all and thank you for having me on this site. since I moved to FL and so happened to be the week hurricane IRMA hit. I had to quickly learn how to live, being on a generator. As if the 1000 mile move wasn't stressful enough (not mention made the trip 5 different times) I had no job and running low on funds then to top it off most places only accepted cash cause most services were obviously out and all my money was in the bank back in Indiana. Coming from Indiana I had never experienced anything like this and was for sure a learning curve. Now that I am established with a good job and purchased a home I'm ready to start making sure when disaster hits again I will be better prepared for it. I first started looking at 30kw gen thinking I will be good cause more is better. then I found this site from a guy posting YouTube videos in Oregon I believe it was...by the way super great videos from a guy named Matt iirc. well as I read through the post I learned more isn't always better at least with a diesel gen. then I thought well a 15kw will work and then I actually thought about my usage and figured a 10kw would be perfect. so after watching some auction sites I decided to start bidding and try my luck. well my first attempt didn't go well as I got beat out of a power plant with 2 10kw units on it from Texas...sorry if it was someone on here...then I tried my luck and was successful in North Carolina on a unit with 587hr on it and was reset in 2005 I believe. once again sorry if it was someone on here. So again I start reading page after page of these post just loading myself with all the information everyone seems to have and now I'm worried that my stator will be burnt up or my crank will be broke at the flywheel and will be out. it is supposed to be delivered next Sunday as I found someone heading to Fort Bragg for their sons coming home deployment and is gonna bring it back for me...obviously for a price...lol. sorry to ramble on about this I'm just happy, excited and most of all nervous. I do have things in order to do the fuse and mov mods. I do have one question about the fuse...you think a 2.5 amp time delay fuse will be fine instead of the 3 and it needs to be a 600v fuse also, correct? thank you to all for all the help you offer to each newbie coming and going. once I get it home I will get some pics and try to figure out how to load them on...Thanks Again
Please use paragraphs.
Your post are like reading a brick.
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
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I dont trust any filter or fluids I didnt install or pour in. Change them, then you know for a fact you have a 0 hour fluid/filter. As you drain, you can also inspect for foreign fluids/floaties/sinkers. Only fluid I would consider reusing is coolant, after draining into a clean white bucket, then testing ph and specific gravity.
 

Daybreak

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Howdy,
I second what 155mm said. It would be different if it used 12 gallons of oil.

Cold long drain all fluids. Remove all filters, (oil, fuel/water spin-on, fuel canister) On the fuel canister, make sure the little cup lip is on the little gasket.
drain the fuel tank, clean the fuel tank. Inspect the air filter. Get yourself some fuel return line, probably going to need replacing. WELL NUTS, Well Nut A-3816 look up the info, do not pay GMG $22 for 1 unit. there are 2 well nuts on the system. OEM wellnut, or a bulk head brass fitting with viton seal. All the info is under the

MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts

The second page has the quick links, 3rd page the quick links to the manuals.
 

76shovel

Member
69
10
8
Location
Bunnell/FL
Tinstar, sorry about the brick. I will work on that...at least try.

155mm...as for the fluids they will get changed before the first crank and then I plan to change again after a warm up cycle. That way i can flush out cause it will be warm instead of a cold drain. So there will be 2 oil changes.
All fluids will be changed once I check everything out. I just dont want to get it here put a bunch of fluids and filter on/in and then find out it needs rebuilt or not able to be in service. I will be loggging from the time it gets here till its 100% functional and updates from there so of im doing something and could be a better way I'm sure someone will let me know. I plan to make this a permanent install but need to check local codes first and see if i can, and approach it from that angle. Either way when a hurricane comes, I will have power

Daybreak...for the filters I would like to make them spin-on (I dont believe the fuel is) filters just to aid in simplifying the process, but I'm sure the stock ones are sufficent. As for return line, as I see it, get rid of the headache and hassle now and just replace it all and know it should be good for a few years. For the well nut i plan on using the bulkhead fitting. To me its a permanent fix. I have been all over the filters and parts section. Im learning my way around the site and meeting some good people along the way

Thank you all for looking out for me and pointing me in the right direction
 
Last edited:

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
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If you are intending on doing a flush, I believe I have previously read here a post from Guyfang about running ATF in the machine instead of oil for a certain amount of hours. Really helps strip out any built up gunk, then flush, and replace with standard oil. Maybe he will wander by to correct me.
 

76shovel

Member
69
10
8
Location
Bunnell/FL
True, I have done it with gas engines but not experienced with diesel engines and if it would affect it. Trans fluid has a great detergent properties just not sure about the lubricating properties. Surely there is some kind of detergents in diesel oil...im no oil expert though...lol.
If anything frequent oil changes will clean it also
 

76shovel

Member
69
10
8
Location
Bunnell/FL
2082798_6465_0_0008.jpg
can someone help me identify some of these items
Tent stakes, ground wire for either the trailer or skid unit, some kind of socket maybe, can't tell if that's a fuel tank cap in the upper corner or not, and maybe some grounding rods or maybe fuel cap rods
 
Last edited:

Light in the Dark

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The braided copper line is whats normally in the pocket door, opposite the lugs, for use in grounding. Used on trailer sets and for regular genset only. The rest looks like an accumulation of crap... wouldn't worry too much about most of that. Some might be useful, but it mainly looks like a collection of junk.
 
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